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Old 09-10-2015, 12:48 PM   #21
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I understand the support thing. It's just after all that hard work there are other rot proof products that could be used. Just say'n.
Thanks Bill, we agree with your comment

We looked at other options, but do to various reasons, this is what we opted to do. We have a couple more things that we will be doing to this in the future to minimize any risk of water ingress. I will post as we do them
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Old 01-28-2016, 02:09 PM   #22
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UPDATE!

Well, as the saying goes, work got in the way! As we stated previously, we work for ourselves, so we need to "make hay when the sun shines !" We have done very little more on the decks, but have tackled a few small projects.

The weather is such, that we have decided to hold off on any further deck repair until it warms up and the monsoons stop. So, on to other things for now.

We have removed, repaired/sanded and refinished the breast hook and the bowsprit. We have taken apart the windlass, cleaned all the parts, made sure it was in working order. We polished everything on the windlass that needs to be polished, and have prepped what needs to be painted for paint, and what needs to be chromed is heading out to the chroming shop. We have removed the leaking water tanks, and have ordered new replacement tanks.

We have a bit of a reprieve with work, so this weekend cleaning of the aft cockpit storage and bilge area will commence. We will be making note of all items to be repaired/painted in this area and will come up with a plan to complete them. Also, we will be removing part of the hot water system (it is propane, and we do not want this on the boat).

We will keep you posted !
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Old 01-28-2016, 02:33 PM   #23
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True enough, however the support is needed for the Samson post etc. It is marine plywood, sealed and all joints around are sealed. Everything will be sealed up tight
I might have thought a piece of 1/2 inch steel epoxied in there, cheap and strong base for the post.
I have read weight up front is good for boats to move through the water more efficiently.
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Old 01-28-2016, 05:21 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by sdowney717 View Post
I might have thought a piece of 1/2 inch steel epoxied in there, cheap and strong base for the post.
I have read weight up front is good for boats to move through the water more efficiently.
Even if that was true, 50-100 lb piece of steel isn't going to make a difference in how the boat rides.
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Old 01-28-2016, 07:50 PM   #25
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sdowney, is that really you, from the woodenboatforum. I always kept up with your rebuild. Still use sanitred ? anyway, encapsulated (epoxy) plywood would be fine I think.
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Old 01-29-2016, 06:01 PM   #26
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sdowney, is that really you, from the woodenboatforum. I always kept up with your rebuild. Still use sanitred ? anyway, encapsulated (epoxy) plywood would be fine I think.
Sure is me, how are you? I was thinking steel plate glassed in and bolted to the samson post would be really strong, I know a lot of force can pull on the front post.
My boat is fine.
Sani Tred Permaflex is still on the hull. Although I experimented with another polyurethane last haulout.
I removed the permaflex off the bow going back 10 feet.
Then I used Black PL poly roof flashing mixed with 30% 1/32 milled glass fibers. Home Depot sells this in 10 oz cartridge tubes.
It really works good. It is easier to use. You know me, I like to experiment.
I troweled it on using a 6 inch flat knife. It smooths easily like frosting a cake. And stays where you put it. Permaflex will drip which is a disadvantage on a hull bottom.





This is the transition area where I stopped.

Permaflex stayed on ok for 5 years with no leaks. It did not adhere well to the oak keel, so I removed it and coated in Black PL. It has been in the water fine now since the fall of 2014. I coated the struts and rudders also, thinking that it would keep away the salt water, so I have less need for the zincs to do there thing.
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Old 01-29-2016, 07:00 PM   #27
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So you sanded fown your boats bottom to bare glass then costed it with a mixture of glass fibers and roofing sealant? Why?

Did you put anyi-fouling bottom paint over that?
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Old 01-30-2016, 06:54 PM   #28
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So you sanded down your boats bottom to bare glass then coated it with a mixture of glass fibers and roofing sealant? Why?

Did you put anti-fouling bottom paint over that?
Hi, the boat is a wooden hull which I rebuilt over 10 years ago. The last haulout in 2014 I decided to try another coating on the bottom in places.
At the end, I coated with bottom paint.
The roofing sealant has worked great over the long years, it gives me a watertight hull.
I had originally on the rebuild removed all the planks coating both plank sides with permaflex and replaced most of the frames and sealed them also. My boat does not swell and when it goes in it does not leak.
Since it is an old wooden boat, I can do what I want and not worry about money.


Here it is with bottom done in 2014. When people see it, they don't think it is a wood hull. I like the interior layout, its beamy.


My winter project, I need to rebuild my starboard engine, it is blowing smoke under load and lacks power.

Aft view


Those props are 22 by 20, and I have been wondering if they are too big. Other Egg Harbors people have smaller props I think, anyone know? Also engines cant rev to 4000, they top out at 3000 to 3500 rpm. All these Egg's were built with a slight hook which is more pronounced at the keel and is gone away midway up the deadrise. Deadrise aft is about 8*.
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Old 01-30-2016, 09:05 PM   #29
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Sdowney717,
I remember this boat on BD. Sounds like you're over propped now.
Still have a "hook" in the bottom aft?
Sounds like you're getting ready for some boating.
Me too.
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Old 01-31-2016, 06:41 AM   #30
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Sdowney717,
I remember this boat on BD. Sounds like you're over propped now.
Still have a "hook" in the bottom aft?
Sounds like you're getting ready for some boating.
Me too.
Might be over propped. I have left it as is for now. Mostly I boat at 6 to 8 knots max.
It still has a slight hook, I assume the OEM designer did that to add some lift like a tab.

What is the 'BD'? I did post lot of repairs to the wooden boat forum in the past.

Here is prop shot, I have never had these off the shaft. A prop shop told me he could nibble these smaller.
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Old 01-31-2016, 11:47 PM   #31
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Old 02-01-2016, 10:19 AM   #32
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Awesome thread, thanks for sharing!
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Old 02-01-2016, 01:36 PM   #33
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Great to see you here sdowney. About the PL roof stuff, I dont like it as much since LockTite bought them out but it still works. I remember the thread on WB where you mixed saw dust with PL premium. I used that a lot, man it really expands. Great for filling gaps and strong. Also used a lot of Sanitred, the learning curve is steep but its great stuff, once you learn how to use it. Folks here could learn a lot by going back to your old WB threads. Good lookin old boat BTW.
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Old 02-01-2016, 02:20 PM   #34
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Great to see you here sdowney. About the PL roof stuff, I dont like it as much since LockTite bought them out but it still works. I remember the thread on WB where you mixed saw dust with PL premium. I used that a lot, man it really expands. Great for filling gaps and strong. Also used a lot of Sanitred, the learning curve is steep but its great stuff, once you learn how to use it. Folks here could learn a lot by going back to your old WB threads. Good lookin old boat BTW.
Yes, the PL premium polyurethane mixed 50-50 with wood saw dust is a great combo. I filled the plank seams with that and it worked well. Then overcoated with sani tred permaflex. PL is really good, it expands into wood so it seals every crevice so no water can get in there to cause rotting. Cover it with a cereal bag to press it in and it will not stick to the bag. I don't really like sani tred permaflex upside down, it forms runs and drips. IMO, the black PL is a better idea and especially strong if mixed with milled fibers.

You should try mixing black PL with 1/32 milled glass fibers at about 30%. It hardens up the rubber. Straight or mixed, It is easy to smooth onto flat surfaces, just like icing a cake. And it can be sanded with random orbit. I coated the forward 10 feet planks under bow, then I found a rotary wire brush in the drill easily smoothed the black PL mixed with milled fibers. So you can easily contour the coating. No milled glass fibers it does not smooth it very nicely, a rotary brush will actually pull it leaving tiny holes in the surface. But it can be sanded smooth.

It does take a good week to fully cure. If your sanding and it balls up, the sticky balls can be removed with a wet cotton towel rubbed in the surface. Also I found before it cures, it can melted with a hot iron, afterwards it can not. I decided to coat the exterior aft sides where rain water runs down the side and even show the plank edges nicely.

Another issue with sani tred permaflex is before adding new coats, you must wash the surface with dishsoap as it does form an oil during the cure. The Black PL does not do that, it stays very sticky, subsequent coats adhere extremely well. After a week or two the sticky feeling goes away.

Here I have 'encapsulated' the outer surface of the aft planking in Black Pl with no milled fibers. I used a 6 inch flat knife, and troweled - smoothed it over the surface. The white is Dap Dynaflex 230 used to smooth imperfection. Dap sand really well before it cures, sands easily next day wet, after a good cure of a week, sand very fine dry. I do recall wet sanding some of the seams by hand to get is smooth where I stopped and started filling seams. I recall using my finger to fill the seams with the DAP Dynaflex. Since it is so soft it fills very easily the seams. For sanding DAP cuts down fast and is very smooth using 120 grit random orbit paper folded over..



I got it looking really fine. The whole idea was keep out the rain. I dug out all the dried and cracking 45 year old linseed oil white seam compound, Back aft I use Black PL, from aft forward 10 feet. Then after I used the DAP Dynaflex. Dap goes on really soft, but when it cures, it is a hard rubber. I went over the entire boat, took me some time, and it all looks very nice on the hull. Since 2014, not a single seam has cracked open. It still looks like it did in 2014.
Sanded smooth before paint


Seams appearance wet with new paint.



If your trying to achieve smooth defined seems using black PL, use a hot knife edge, like heat a flat steak knife with a propane torch. Drug across the seam it will knock down and make a smooth seam but only for a couple of days can you do that. Then you need to scrub the seam with dish soap and a scrunge what you melted as it turns into a black greasy substance. Otherwise , it is really tough to smooth, if you let it full cure, heat no longer melts it.
The result I thought was worth my effort, and it was an experiment.
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