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Old 01-28-2016, 03:02 PM   #1
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Removing Teak Trim on Flybridge

Good Morning:

I would like to remove the teak trim that runs around the lower edge of my flybridge (see the attached picture). It is in pretty bad shape, and is tough to maintain. The plan would be to clean it up, fill the holes and paint.

Anyone done this? What can I expect under the trim, is there a joint that needs to be addressed or is it simply fiberglass?

The boat is a Universal 36.

Thanks for any input, I want to know what I am getting into before I take to the demolition....

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Old 01-28-2016, 03:09 PM   #2
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Yes rip it off, fill, then I ran 2 layers of glass tape around to strengthen and level, painted to match new color scheme (boot stripe)?
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Old 01-28-2016, 03:31 PM   #3
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Yes rip it off, fill, then I ran 2 layers of glass tape around to strengthen and level, painted to match new color scheme (boot stripe)?
Ok, that doesn't sound terribly ugly. Thanks for the input.
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Old 01-28-2016, 03:33 PM   #4
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here....
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Old 01-28-2016, 03:36 PM   #5
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psneeld, that looks great, thanks for the picture.

Did your boat have handrails along there originally?

-- Ryan
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Old 01-28-2016, 03:47 PM   #6
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yes they were the PIA to get off and preserve them because the way they were thru bolted.


I saved them for 2 round trips to FL and back...never reached up for a handhold...when it's rough, I always crouch, stay low and use the lower rails....so I finally tossed them...just more useless teak to maintain.


The only use for them I have seen is to store boathooks.
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Old 01-28-2016, 03:51 PM   #7
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I'm pretty tall and have used the handrails on occasion. I wouldn't put the old wood ones currently installed back on - probably go with some stainless.

I can imagine access to the backside will be a nightmare.

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Old 01-28-2016, 07:00 PM   #8
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Remember that that strip of teak covers the screws that attach the flybridge to the cabin top. If you glass it, the boat won't go by truck anymore without a sawzall. That said, I've done this twice for other people. I removed all the screws attaching the top, lifted and blocked the FB up and sealed all the holes, cracks etc. along the lip that helps locate the FB. Then drop it back down and glass it up. It does help by making it more watertight. If you want to use a single long ss handrail, it can be done easily. The attachment point forward is under the flybridge (easy) and the aft bolts can be accessed by installing a single 4" pieplate access on the inside panel. Good luck Ben
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Old 01-28-2016, 08:15 PM   #9
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I have seen starboard used as a replacement for the teak on an eyebrow. Looked pretty good and can be painted I believe.
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Old 02-02-2016, 09:52 PM   #10
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I have been replacing teak with strips of same size Starboard and it is working out great, don't think it can be painted however it is pretty smooth.
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Old 02-03-2016, 07:57 AM   #11
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We have used AZEK with SS deck screws.

EZ to install , and EZ to rebed as required.
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Old 02-03-2016, 10:38 AM   #12
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Quote:
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here....

Not to hijack, but how does your solar panel work mounted like that? Do you have a way to swing it up when needed?
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Old 02-03-2016, 11:15 AM   #13
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It works great because I can tilt it and aim it at the sun over just being mounted flat.


One night in North Carolina at anchor with both panels facing the sun, I had around 50% ( I think higher) output right up until sunset.


I have a couple stainless tubes to hold them flat and once the go over center, facing the other side, I can tie them up to my flag halyards at any about 30 degrees over center. Ideally I would mount them for 180 degree swing...but that would involve a mount I didn't have time to fool with and I don't think it would have looked as neat...but not saying it can't be done well.


This summer I think I will add 2 panels mounted flat on a support behind the port saloon after window level with the flybridge deck.
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Old 02-03-2016, 11:24 AM   #14
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That's a cool setup. Thanks.
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Old 02-09-2016, 01:53 PM   #15
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As someone who was once enthusiastic enough about the stuff to specify Azek for exterior trim on a building, I suggest looking at a material which retains its dimension and position better. Azek sags on rather short spans and is quite affected by temperature changes. Paints well, mills well. I've since used Boral for exterior trim; it's quite stable but is relatively weak - brittle, tough on tools but can be milled.
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Old 02-10-2016, 10:03 AM   #16
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Thanks for all the input, appreciate it. I'm going to go and poke around, see if I can find out exactly what to expect before I jump in. Doesn't sound too hard tonglass and fill, just takes time.

Cheers.
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Old 02-11-2016, 08:06 AM   #17
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"Azek sags on rather short spans"

Most boat work IS short spans,

windows are seldom more than 3-4 ft wide , and as the trim will be rebeed every so often , unlike a house , the use of SS deck screws assures quick removal.

Those with square drive heads can be reused many times.
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Old 02-11-2016, 03:02 PM   #18
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When I say that Azek sags on short spans, I mean between fastenings. Obviously, this depends on all sorts of things, like how big is the cross section, how often the screws, how aggressive the bedding goo, how restrained at the ends, how much temperature swings.

For the fellow who's thinking about replacing a Teak strip I think pultruded fiberglass might be tempting. The stuff is made for sailboat battens, window frames, etc. Sadly, McMaster-Carr, my go-to source for all sorts of stuff doesn't seem to carry it.
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