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Old 08-06-2014, 08:41 AM   #21
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Most hinges are made by rolling tabs into tubes. They are not welded so there should be a bit of spring in the tab to allow driving out the pin. A little easy prying on the end of the tab, without bending it just enough to get some spring action, might loosen the rust.

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Old 08-06-2014, 01:14 PM   #22
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You guys forgot to mention "there will be blood."

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Old 08-06-2014, 01:25 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Northern Spy View Post
5 bucks says it won't and you'll curse all of us.
Hope not.

Originally Posted by Peter B View Post
Aha….with you now - you had me wondering re this zero thing - we call them grease nipples, (for obvious reasons), maybe you US people are too prim and proper to use such a term…?
Yeah.Everybody around here has to be politically correct or liability issues.

Originally Posted by rwidman View Post
I don't think you could add a zerk fitting to the hing shown in the original photo. Perhaps you could but the grease would just run out the first joint. Oil should work just fine and you can get oil into all parts of the hinge.
There is always a new hinge with zerk like Boomba posted.

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Old 08-06-2014, 02:42 PM   #24
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Hope you did not get cut too bad... stitches?
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Old 08-06-2014, 03:15 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Rogerh View Post
Hope you did not get cut too bad... stitches?
I'm fine, I had just gotten past the lubricating oil stage when I cut my hand on the lexan window shield while banging on the door trying to get it shut again. Just a flesh wound.
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Old 08-06-2014, 04:36 PM   #26
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In my non tradesman view, its a soak with penetrating oil 1 day, heat until cherry 20 minutes getting the torch ready and another 10 minutes heating, Hammering 5 minutes, repeat twice more for the other two segments.


1.) Cut the hinge off: 10 min with plasma including setup
2.) Weld the new hinge on: 10 min with mig welder including setup
3.) Paint: 15 minutes
4.) Trip to doctor after hauling welder around (1 morning)
5.) Beers on the aft deck under strict orders to take it easy (Priceless)
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Old 08-06-2014, 06:34 PM   #27
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Heating the hinge (but not the pin) will cause it to expand and make it easier to hammer the pin out. This would be down the line after trying soaking it with a penetrant like PB Blaster several times over a period of a couple days and tapping it with a hammer each time.

This may be what is known as a "fixed pin hinge" so you have to grind the ends of the pin flush with the hinge body before you try anything. It might pay to countersink the ends just to be sure everything is gone.

If the hinge failed because it is out of line with the others, I have seen a carpenter "adjust" a similar hinge with a pair of channelock pliers. Leave the pin out, bend the tubes to where they need to be, then insert the pin.

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