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Old 03-02-2015, 07:44 AM   #81
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That is very cool! It could also be used on a small hull breach as well I suspect???


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Old 03-02-2015, 07:46 AM   #82
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If anyone needs to change out a seacock valve in the water, there is a nifty little device available to avoid any minor floods. I haven't tried it myself but it looks like a good idea.

unless that is the 2 piece Graco flange/ball valve seacock....

the video is more properly describing changing a "ball valve" underway.

not insinuating the best practice as actually using a proper seacock...but is a cool tool in case your make believe seacocks breaks off and you need to stem the flow till you pound in a plug.
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Old 03-02-2015, 07:55 AM   #83
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Quote:
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If anyone needs to change out a seacock valve in the water, there is a nifty little device available to avoid any minor floods. I haven't tried it myself but it looks like a good idea.

Wow very cool little tool
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Old 03-02-2015, 11:42 AM   #84
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Pgitug, that's an excellent fitting. Unfortunately Groco doesn't make it in the size Steve needed.
I see you're in Punta Gorda. Do you know the Navi-Gator restaurant up the Peace River? Food is good and it's a fun boat ride to get there. Small boats only.
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Old 03-02-2015, 03:19 PM   #85
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the main reason I use these is that when sea grass fills the strainer and then backs up in the pipe, before you catch it or the temp begins to rise, this fitting with back wash the grass out with less effort than a normal 90 will.
That makes sense.
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Old 03-02-2015, 11:02 PM   #86
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Pgitug, that's an excellent fitting. Unfortunately Groco doesn't make it in the size Steve needed.

I see you're in Punta Gorda. Do you know the Navi-Gator restaurant up the Peace River? Food is good and it's a fun boat ride to get there. Small boats only.

You bet. We kayak all over the peace River launching at the Navi-Gator. Nice place to spend an afternoon.
Our weather has rewarded us lately. High 83 Low 60. We will take it. Hate to be north right now. An extremely long winter for our friends up north.
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Old 05-21-2015, 10:02 AM   #87
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Any ideas on a slotted, raw water scoop ? The screw heads are buried under 8 coats of ablative, and the MSW seacock/ strainer/etc is mounted right above it, to it. Neither the MSW nor the head valve move at all, too...
TICK TICK TICK - I know
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Old 05-21-2015, 10:12 AM   #88
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Welcome, while I don't have an answer to your specific question, you've come to the right place for advice and counsel.

As the OP for this thread, I thought I'd also report that I just had all 15 below-the-waterline through hulls removed. Getting ready to go back new throughout.
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Old 05-21-2015, 10:51 AM   #89
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Welcome, while I don't have an answer to your specific question, you've come to the right place for advice and counsel.

As the OP for this thread, I thought I'd also report that I just had all 15 below-the-waterline through hulls removed. Getting ready to go back new throughout.
If I had to replace 15 thru hulls I'd look into consolidating many of them if possible.
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Old 05-21-2015, 10:54 AM   #90
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If I had to replace 15 thru hulls I'd look into consolidating many of them if possible.
That's part of the plan. All but 5 of them are in a sea chest. Thnx.
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Old 05-21-2015, 03:31 PM   #91
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Talking of seacocks.
I discovered 4 of mine were seized when doing preventive maintenance before heading off to France. The old seized ones were bronze gate valves and the internal threaded screw that withdraws the gate had eaten away and the handle just kept spinning.
After some sweat and swearwords we replaced all of them on the boat with lever ball cock type and now we can see at a glance when any are open or closed.
Why oh why don't boat builders give more thought to access and replacement, life would be so much easier.
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Old 05-22-2015, 10:59 PM   #92
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IR,
Any chance you grabbed some pics?? I have one gate valve I need to "freshen up". We're the parts readily available ??


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Old 07-03-2015, 01:07 AM   #93
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Finally getting ready to install the new gear. This is about 90%'of what's going in (thanks again, Parks, for a great deal.)



The tech at Groco recommends using 5200 to bond the backing plates to the hull. I know it's permanent and I can't think of a reason I'd ever remove the plates--since I'm using flange adapters, both the through hulls and the seacocks can be replaced while the backing plates and flange adapters remain bonded to the boat.

Anybody see a problem using 5200 to bond the backing plates to the hull vs glassing them in (which is probably MORE permanent) as the excellent Compass Marine how-to shows?
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Old 07-03-2015, 06:38 AM   #94
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5200 sets slowly , about a week to full strength , even with water poured on it to speed the setting process.

Epoxy is usually good to go O' nite.
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Old 07-03-2015, 06:51 AM   #95
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No... I have the same flanges and bolts sticking up but made my back king plates from epoxy and glass an epoxies them down.

5200 should be fine...even 4200.
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Old 07-03-2015, 07:18 AM   #96
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ANODIC
Corrodes easily
MAGNESIUM
ZINC
ALUMINUM ALLOYS
CADMIUM
MILD STEEL
CAST IRON
NICKLE CAST IRON
ALUMINIUM BRONZE
BRASSES
TIN
COPPER
LEAD-TIN SOLDERS
ALUMINIUM BRASS
MANGANESE BRONZE
SILICON BRONZE
TIN BRONZES
STAINLESS STEEL 400-
NICKEL SILVER
NICKEL - CHROMIUM ALLOY
LEAD
COPPER NICKEL
BRONZE
NICKEL - SILVER
COPPER - NICKEL ALLOY
SILVER SOLDER
NICKEL
SILVER
STAINLESS STEELS 302-304
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STAINLESS STEELS 316-317
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Old 07-03-2015, 08:33 AM   #97
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Wow, Thats a lot of thru hulls, pretty tho. I struggled trying to reduce the number on my trawler and finally decided a sea chest would be the way to go. I've always used 5200. The fitting can be removed later if you absolutely have to with a propane torch but its PITA.
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Old 07-03-2015, 09:26 AM   #98
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Angus, Thanks for the order!
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Old 07-03-2015, 10:10 AM   #99
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Things sure are easier in the movies.
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Old 07-03-2015, 08:29 PM   #100
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Parks- another real man here- more than willing to wield his tube of 5200!!


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