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Old 02-02-2015, 10:39 PM   #21
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So once you get it out what are you replacing them with? Metal or composite? Forespar makes some cool three way composite units and if used for engine intake works for fresh water flush and emergency bilge pump.

I haven't thought that far ahead- just assumed I would go bronze. I'm gonna study up on the composite you are suggesting. I can see the advantages.


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Old 02-02-2015, 10:40 PM   #22
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So once you get it out what are you replacing them with? Metal or composite? Forespar makes some cool three way composite units and if used for engine intake works for fresh water flush and emergency bilge pump.
Are you talking about a manifold seasick? With more than one water outlet?
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Old 02-02-2015, 10:43 PM   #23
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Good point SD. I guess another $80 is not much for peace of mind. It's great to have you back.
I have a new acronym. BOAST. Break out at least several thousand!!!😎


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Old 02-02-2015, 10:51 PM   #24
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I cans find the product mentioned on the Forespar site. The flanged Seacock (what I am going to install) only goes to 1.5" so not big enough.


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Old 02-02-2015, 11:05 PM   #25
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Heavy artillery. tool D large pipe wrench. My tools are all labeled. ��
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Old 02-02-2015, 11:31 PM   #26
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Heavy artillery. tool D large pipe wrench. My tools are all labeled. ��
Is that what we call a Stillson wrench?
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Old 02-02-2015, 11:33 PM   #27
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I cans find the product mentioned on the Forespar site. The flanged Seacock (what I am going to install) only goes to 1.5" so not big enough.


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I saw one site with up to 1 1/2" and another site with 2" full flow ball valve units. I believe I have the 2"
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Old 02-02-2015, 11:50 PM   #28
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Are you talking about a manifold seasick? With more than one water outlet?
Yes my through hulls are three way depending on where handle goes like for over board head three way valves. The main channel goes to engine from the through hull the other channel is your choice bilge pump fresh water flush or most of the time inactive.
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Old 02-02-2015, 11:52 PM   #29
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Angus is correct, The Groco SV series of seacocks were very well made. What causes them to be replaced is that the rubber plug swells into the water passage when the valve is closed. The rubber eventually hardens into a bump that makes it hard to turn the valve. Forcing it can cause the rubber to break loose from the shaft. The rubber bump can be sanded off but eventually the rubber fails to seal and the seacock must be replaced.

Skipperdude, the type of corrosion you're talking about is called dezincification. It only happens to high zinc brasses, not low zinc bronzes such as Groco and other name brand seacock manufactures use.

Bronzes are suceptable to electrolysis from stray currents, that is why you bond them to sacrificial zinc anodes.

Bronze seacocks are much stronger than the plastic ones. I wouldn't use the old Forespar Marlon seacocks. The newer design they sell to boat builders looks pretty good, if you want a plastic seacock. While Forespar doesn't market them to the aftermarket, they can be ordered.
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Old 02-03-2015, 12:03 AM   #30
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Installing Thru-Hull Fittings and Valves - Groco
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Old 02-03-2015, 01:03 AM   #31
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Angus is correct, The Groco SV series of seacocks were very well made. What causes them to be replaced is that the rubber plug swells into the water passage when the valve is closed. The rubber eventually hardens into a bump that makes it hard to turn the valve. Forcing it can cause the rubber to break loose from the shaft. The rubber bump can be sanded off but eventually the rubber fails to seal and the seacock must be replaced.

Skipperdude, the type of corrosion you're talking about is called dezincification. It only happens to high zinc brasses, not low zinc bronzes such as Groco and other name brand seacock manufactures use.

Bronzes are suceptable to electrolysis from stray currents, that is why you bond them to sacrificial zinc anodes.

Bronze seacocks are much stronger than the plastic ones. I wouldn't use the old Forespar Marlon seacocks. The newer design they sell to boat builders looks pretty good, if you want a plastic seacock. While Forespar doesn't market them to the aftermarket, they can be ordered.
hopcar. That's why I said that. Thanks for the term. but I have never been on a boat that had a correct bonding system. If it was it didn't stay that way long. Good chance those 30 year old thru hulls arn't as brassy as they used to be.
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Old 02-03-2015, 07:27 AM   #32
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Parks, do you know of a source for pre made backing blocks?


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Old 02-03-2015, 07:29 AM   #33
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Actually bonding is a great way to spread stray current corrosion to your seacocks......

Galvanic action is totally different and about half the world does not believe bonding is necessary for stand alone seacocks.
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Old 02-03-2015, 07:41 AM   #34
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Regardless of the claims for some super bonding goop., sea cocks are designed to be BOLTED in place.

The method for commercial boats is to install the sea cock , then the thru hull as they may need to be pulled for inspection.

3/8 bronze bolts is my minimum and for go fast folks strut bolts are sleeker.

Never ever SS bolts underwater.

GRP sheet up to 1/2 inch is OTS and can be epoxied in as backing block.

30 days of crap electric can pink most bronze ,
30 years is no problem at all if the electrical system on your boat , and alas your slip mates , is proper.
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Old 02-03-2015, 12:48 PM   #35
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Since on most boats the internal and the slip mates electrical systems can not always be counted on Walla the composite product. For me it was a no brainer on my last four boats composite exercise the handles so they don't freeze and forget about the pink demon.
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Old 02-03-2015, 04:07 PM   #36
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Forklift, If you are using either Groco or Apollo seacocks with triangular bases, Groco makes some really nice ones. We sell a lot of them but any Groco dealer should have them.
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Old 02-03-2015, 07:35 PM   #37
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Parks, it's the round backing blocks that are attached to the inside hull I'm hoping to score. Would take time to make/ cut and a CIRCLE at that.

eyschulman (AKA Doc ) - those composite seacocks certainly have some advantages. And it wouldn't take much to add Bronze vs Composite to "our" list of debates !!
️Galley up/ Galley down. Single/ double. Etc!!


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Old 02-03-2015, 08:28 PM   #38
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Most yards just grind off the outside, the heat softens the goop. Hit it with a hammer. Do it anyway you want but bring a grinder. I think psneeld hit on every spot, and yes if you would like to replace them again go ahead and bond them.
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Old 02-03-2015, 08:46 PM   #39
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Most yards just grind off the outside, the heat softens the goop. Hit it with a hammer.... if you would like to replace them again go ahead and bond them.
What if you don`t want to replace the thru hull, but want to blank it off/repair the opening back to solid hull?
In a non cored f/g hull, 1-1.5" thick, what is the accepted repair procedure?
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Old 02-03-2015, 09:32 PM   #40
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Most yards just grind off the outside, the heat softens the goop. Hit it with a hammer. Do it anyway you want but bring a grinder. I think psneeld hit on every spot, and yes if you would like to replace them again go ahead and bond them.

The more I think about this the more sense it makes to stop trying to save the $80. I probably have 2 1/2 hours in this already, and was planning on building a through hull tool on my small lathe this week (at least an hour with my minimal skills) and I STILL have to get it removed. Grinder or hole saw- that will be my approach.




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