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Old 05-04-2016, 07:32 PM   #41
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You guys had better not jinx my 30yr old always cold no 240v but ever reliable 12v Norcold 2 door fridge by making me stand up for the brand.
Admitting I have replaced the seals and I need to kick the bottom of the fridge part door as the door has dropped a bit but it works like a charmClick image for larger version

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John
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Old 05-04-2016, 11:47 PM   #42
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My '78 Puget Trawler 34 has an old, original I suppose Norcold, not sure the model, no labels anywhere that I can see. Tried it out the other day, works on shoreside and 12V so for now I will use it but I don't expect it will last much longer. I don't see us letting it run all night either.
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Old 05-08-2016, 02:26 PM   #43
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Due to my cutout dimensions (33" x 23 5/8") I'm leaning toward the Nova Kool R5810 to minimize cabinet mods. My current Norcold is 3.1 Cu Ft and the Nova Kool is 5.8 Cu Ft...87% bigger. Looking at the Vitrifrigo (4.2 cu ft) and Isotherm (4.6 cu ft) choices, they both appear too narrow and short for a good fit with the flush mount flange.

My Norcold had front ventilation, but these Danfoss models require cabinet venting. I currently have no vents and will need a trip to the boat this week to evaluate my options. Has anyone else here dealt with adding vents to existing cabinetry? I'm looking for suitable sources for a 30 sq inch vent to go through the countertop along the backsplash.

(old picture)


I'm also considering lining the top, bottom and sides in 3/4-1 in thick foil-lined Styrofoam sheets. I have the room and figure it'll improve the cold retention. Of course I'll discuss this with Nova Kool but thought I'd bounce it by you guys first since some surely have already traveled down this road before me.

Thanks for any advice.
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Old 05-08-2016, 04:10 PM   #44
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Hey Al, how about Amazon?

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Old 05-08-2016, 04:57 PM   #45
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Thanks, Craig. I'll take a look. I also found some nice possibilities at Rockler.

Lipped Vent Grommets - Rockler Woodworking Tools

Plastic vents that can be painted to match the countertop.
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Old 05-08-2016, 05:08 PM   #46
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I have the Isotherm and the cutout size given does not include the nearly 3/4-1" flange on each side. You may want to confirm that before ruling these units out as too narrow.
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Old 05-08-2016, 06:00 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bay Pelican View Post
Al
I have the Isotherm and the cutout size given does not include the nearly 3/4-1" flange on each side. You may want to confirm that before ruling these units out as too narrow.
Thanks, Marty. That's my #2 choice so far...but the jury's still out. I've been looking for those Isotherm flange dimensions but oddly they're not listed on the sites I've checked including WM and Isotherm. From this video, I got the impression they're about an inch.

My cutout at 33H x 23 5/8W is 3.4 inches higher and 2.85 inches wider than the Isotherm. I could lift the unit and place a vented spacer at the base, but the sides...that's a lot of gap to fill with a flange. I could make it work if I have to with cabinet mods or additional flange material.

If I can fit the Nova Kool in there, I get 5.8 cu ft vs 4.6 in the Isotherm and 4.2 in the Vitrifigo. Just gotta find one at a good price. Rescue PM sent to Hopcar!
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Old 05-08-2016, 06:41 PM   #48
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Please excuse the crappy formatting, but here's my comparison list.
Attached Files
File Type: txt Fridge List.txt (805 Bytes, 44 views)
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Old 05-12-2016, 07:19 AM   #49
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None of the fridges on the list are the modern style that vent into the cabin.

Venting the heat into the reefer closet raises the Delta T , the amount of work the reefer must do to to stay cool.

A power closet vent doesn't help very much as they usually operate with the fridge , leaving it to cook in its closet when shut off.
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Old 05-12-2016, 08:51 AM   #50
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The Admiral wanted to get away from a refrigerator and freezer that vented into the galley. Too much heat. On a Krogen 42 the backs of the refrigerator freezer are close to the bulkhead that is the pilot house wall. We vented the heat in that direction. Happy wife is a happy life.
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Old 05-12-2016, 09:21 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FF View Post
None of the fridges on the list are the modern style that vent into the cabin.

Venting the heat into the reefer closet raises the Delta T , the amount of work the reefer must do to to stay cool.

A power closet vent doesn't help very much as they usually operate with the fridge , leaving it to cook in its closet when shut off.
Sometimes " it is what it is". I replaced mine last year and ended up providing venting as where possible . Time will tell if it lasts the 26years of the old one. (Not that I'll be there to measure the time)
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Old 05-12-2016, 12:19 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FF View Post
None of the fridges on the list are the modern style that vent into the cabin.

Venting the heat into the reefer closet raises the Delta T , the amount of work the reefer must do to to stay cool.

A power closet vent doesn't help very much as they usually operate with the fridge , leaving it to cook in its closet when shut off.
All three of the fridges on my list are modern Danfoss compressor fridges. I know the Nova Kool R5810 requires a 30 sq inch vent to allow for a "chimney effect" airflow for venting. The Vitrifrigo requires 45 sq inches of venting according to the manual. I'm not sure if the Isotherm requires venting or not.

I spoke to a Nova Kool engineer yesterday about enhancing insulation and optimizing venting for maximum efficiency. My intent is to add styrofoam panels to the sides, top and bottom. He stated that while it's not necessary due to that unit's excellent insulation, some gain may be obtained, especially top and bottom. many folks glue it onto the sides, but he recommended using something like foil tape to secure the panels loosely.

He also addressed the vent requirements. He said the best is 30 sq inch venting to allow the natural chimney effect venting, suggesting bottom front and upper aft. An alternative to this is to cut a 4.5 in x 4.5 in hole into the cabinet and move the fan from the back of the unit into this opening to create a powered exhaust airflow while the unit is running. He noted that this would require a slight extension of the fan wires to allow the fan to reach the opening. I will explore this possibility, also.

Marty, I'm intrigued by your solution to vent the hot air externally. My fridge sits against the stbd salon wall and this solution could be very feasible. Did you add a SS vent to the exterior cabin wall? Got a pic?

I am also going to explore the possibility of forced air venting into the cavity behind the stbd cabinets and propane stove (which we very seldom use). Any thoughts pro or con?
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Old 05-12-2016, 05:02 PM   #53
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Sorry to mislead you. I vented into the pilot house. using a 3" dryer type hose and a 3" computer fan. The vent exits the bulkhead inside the pilot house but right next to the pilot house door which is usually open. Fans last me two seasons or approximately 8 months of use. Very low draw. My IR thermometer indicates I am exhausting warmer air.
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Old 05-13-2016, 06:34 AM   #54
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RV fridge vents are built to work with out power .

Amazon.com: rv fridge vent
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Old 05-20-2016, 08:40 PM   #55
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My Virtofrigo over/under has served us well for many years. Has the recommended Danfoss compressor. I do worry about what seems to be flimsy latch, plasticy and seemingly ready to break--but no problems with it in 8 years or so.
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