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Old 08-03-2014, 06:40 PM   #1
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Refinishing exterior brightwork

One of my fall jobs is to refinish the swim platform and rub rails. The PO supposedly used Cetol that is now peeling badly. Does this stuff come up with a scraper or need sanding? Im used to 2 part teak cleaner and teak oil but I want to try to match the rest of the boat.
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Old 08-03-2014, 07:06 PM   #2
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Greetings,
Mr. HW. Cetol scrapes quite nicely with a SHARP scraper. Sand afterwards and you're good to go. I'm in the throes of a repaint/refinish and from experience, keep that scraper really sharp and it will ease your work substantially. I sharpened my scraper 8X+ doing 100' of cap rail.
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Old 08-03-2014, 07:07 PM   #3
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Try a heat gun and scraper first, sand if needed then leave the swim platform alone; unless you add some granules, it will have better non-skid properties in its natural state.
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Old 08-03-2014, 07:31 PM   #4
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Take the stern platform home and refinish it.

Let it dry out real good. Use a heat gun and scraper to remove all the old Cetol. Apply a white marine primer mixed w kerosene .. 50-50 to 25-75 K to P. Then apply the best white marine paint you can find. A softer paint (frequently called long oil) should be more flexable and hold up better on the platform. The sealer/primer is very important as it will help keep water from getting under the film of paint and lifting it off.

Teak cleaner should be avoided (bad for the wood) and "teak oil" does little good and lasts not at all.

If your platform is teak that particular item may be better left alone.

Replace w aluminum? See older threads about Pine Tar finishing. Possibly an avenue.

Good question as so many have the "swim step", it lives in a harsh environment and is difficult to work on in the water.

Another idea ... cut out a plywood cover (probably 2 or 3 pieces and replace every year. Make a template. Paint it white or clear or not at all. That will keep the sun away from the teak (or whatever) underneath. Use the pine tar under. If you make your base swim step out of aluminum the cover can be replaced whenever you feel like it.

One thing's for sure. If you finish it traditionally you'll be doing it again soon.

Unlike RT belly up to the bar and buy a tungsten carbide scraper. You'll not need to sharpen them. You too RT ... you'll consider them a miracle. Blades slightly curved or straight are available. I prefer curved as the corners are less likely to dig in on the edges. If you don't know about TC scrapers this may be the best advice I've ever given.
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Old 08-03-2014, 08:58 PM   #5
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Greetings,
Mr. m. I somewhat agree on the TC scraper. I've got two and have had them for years but very difficult to sharpen (need a diamond wheel) when dulled. I still prefer the soft steel scrapers and with a VERY sharp scraper, a heat gun is totally unnecessary IMO.
I also agree with leaving the teak on the swim step untreated. No oil, no varnish, no sealer at all. A regular wash with salt water will keep it looking just fine.
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Old 08-03-2014, 09:26 PM   #6
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Quote:
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Greetings,
Mr. HW. Cetol scrapes quite nicely with a SHARP scraper. Sand afterwards and you're good to go. I'm in the throes of a repaint/refinish and from experience, keep that scraper really sharp and it will ease your work substantially. I sharpened my scraper 8X+ doing 100' of cap rail.
Only 8X?

Do you guys also burnish the edge of your scrapers after you sharpen them?

It makes a big difference on how well and smoothly they scrape away a finish.
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Old 08-03-2014, 11:44 PM   #7
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RT and Bill,
We must be talking about different scrapers.
The tungsten carbide scrapers you don't sharpen. Too hard. Ya just get a new blade about 1/4" X 1 3/4" long. Insert and secure w a small/short screw.

I don't think I've ever replaced a blade.
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Old 08-04-2014, 01:09 AM   #8
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Yes I was not referring to carbide scrapers. But carbide scrapers can be sharpened and I believe burnished as well.
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Old 08-04-2014, 04:38 AM   #9
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Thanks for the responses. Naked swim platform it is. I have a palm sander and heat gun. The TC scraper is new to me so I will pick one up.
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Old 08-04-2014, 06:55 PM   #10
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I would avoid the heat gun.
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Old 08-04-2014, 07:02 PM   #11
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I would avoid the heat gun.
Because?
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Old 08-04-2014, 07:05 PM   #12
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It can destroy good wood in the wrong hands.

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Because?
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Old 08-04-2014, 07:12 PM   #13
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Pretty tough to destroy the wood..even surface charcoaling it is only a light sanding away from bringing it back to match everything which most people do anyway.

I find it really depends on the coating....a heat gun will bubble some right up and it will almost flake off without scraping...other times it really doesn't have the right effect and scraping or sanding (or stripper) is needed as the primary removal method.
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Old 08-04-2014, 07:23 PM   #14
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It can destroy good wood in the wrong hands.
But a scraper can't ????
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Old 08-04-2014, 07:47 PM   #15
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Heat gun and scraper, it's varnish removing 101! Plenty of great videos on YouTube on how to do it! Keep heat gun moving so as not to burn the teak, you'll be fine as long as you keep focused!
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Old 08-05-2014, 09:27 PM   #16
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I use a heat gun in one hand with the other working, pushing, a blade type scraper right behind it. The Cetol or varnish softens and peels right off.
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Old 08-06-2014, 09:58 AM   #17
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Yup, use both. A heat gun helps avoid misuse of the scraper by making the scrapes with less force. Also helps in areas where the grain is going in a tough direction or is soft.

Wait...I thought cetol was a miracle product that did not require all the work of varnish?
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Old 08-06-2014, 11:27 AM   #18
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What is Cetol?

Meaning what's it made of?
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Old 08-06-2014, 11:29 AM   #19
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I would just use an orbital sander as it will most likely need leveling anyway and then leave it bare.
The paint it white or put ply wood on it has got my vote for the worst advice on the forum.
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Old 08-06-2014, 11:29 AM   #20
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Quote:
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What is Cetol?

Meaning what's it made of?
Material Safety Data Sheets | Sikkens® US
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