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Old 08-06-2014, 12:29 PM   #21
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Perfect timing for this thread - thanks!

The PO of our boat used Cetol and masking tape, but still managed many drips onto the gelcoat...what's the best way to get it off gelcoat?
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Old 08-06-2014, 02:24 PM   #22
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Perfect timing for this thread - thanks!

The PO of our boat used Cetol and masking tape, but still managed many drips onto the gelcoat...what's the best way to get it off gelcoat?
Just chip off the excess amount with your fingernail or plastic credit then then remaining stain with a little acetone...........
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Old 08-06-2014, 02:56 PM   #23
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Just chip off the excess amount with your fingernail or plastic credit then then remaining stain with a little acetone...........
Thanks. Not a chance using fingernails, but will try an old, worn out, yacht dollar depleted credit card.
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Old 08-07-2014, 11:04 AM   #24
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Thanks Bill re the ingredients of Cetol,
So it looks like basic ingredients aren't unusual but it's interesting that they vary a lot from within their products. Nearly everything is heavy in linseed oil, alkyd resins, stoddard solvent (a Standard Oil product I believe) and other typical ingredients. There is frequently naphtha, silicone and silica. Naphtha is a crude oil product I'm quite sure so what's so special about this product? A lot of the usual things found in an oil based product.

If anything's unusual it may be the inclusion of lots of solvent. Perhaps they read Peter Culler re kerosene as a penetrant and went heavy on the solvents. Would be a lot cheaper to buy anyman's finish and dump in some solvent or kerosene.

I know the people in Alaska are crazy for Cetol. They put it on everything. Houses, boats, fences, doors ect. Like the anti-fouling paint I use there's stacks of cans of it as they know lots will be sold. Seems to hold up well but may be just the same as other products IMO. Or it may be special ... .???
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Old 08-07-2014, 01:22 PM   #25
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The big thing for Cetol for me is it is not overly environmentally sensitive, hot humid day no problem, cool cloudy day no problem, consistent results.

We use two coats of the standard Cetol and then use their gloss product two coats. Goes on fast.
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Old 08-07-2014, 03:24 PM   #26
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On the advice of others here, I took the swim platform home, scraped and sanded the old finish to remove it. Washed the bare wood with TSP to clean it. Then two coats of Smith's Clear Penetrating Epoxy. 1/1 mixing, very thin, penetrates very well. Seals the teak and prevents water from lifting the next layers. Then three coats of Cetol in Natural teak. It has held up extremely well for three years so far. Before and after pics of the bowsprit here, can't find ones of the swim platform just now, but results the same.
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Old 08-07-2014, 06:05 PM   #27
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Sounds like the the CPES Epoxy would be excellent but some time back I heard a downside to it. We just did our cap rails and decided to use plain oil based varnish. Plan on using Epiphane's for the last top coats as our McKloskie's is a high oil rather soft finish and Epiphane's is considerably harder. Rebeca in her Brightwork book advises against using cleaners and bleaches ... thinks they are harsh or otherwise undesirable. She's very old school though.

We put on the first coat 25% varnish! 2nd coat 50% varnish and 3rd coat 75% varnish. Plan on using brushing thinner here on depending on weather. We will be under covered moorage here on and think the old school varnish will last for years if we sand and put on another coat every year.

Looks great now thanks to Chris's determined work. She brought it back from completely black.

But I am curious what the downside to penetrating Epoxy.
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Old 08-07-2014, 07:16 PM   #28
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It can destroy good wood in the wrong hands.
That's not going to happen.
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Old 08-07-2014, 07:51 PM   #29
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But I am curious what the downside to penetrating Epoxy.
It can be a pain when it come times to strip it off and if you have to sand an area down to bare wood to patch in a damaged spot it can be hard to get a color match that blends well.

But you can build a nice base with it and obviously in adheres to the wood very well while giving the varnish coats a nice base to build on.
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