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Old 07-05-2010, 04:55 AM   #21
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RE: Re: Linseed oil on teak

"My wife and I enjoy working with the wood on our boat but we don't want to do the same things over and over again. Hence the $10,000 worth of covers on our boat (fortunately, it was somebody else's $10,000)."
Edited by Marin on Thursday 24th of June 2010 11:43:10AM


Hey Marin, speaking of covering the timber, how's this for an attack of coveritis....?* I think it's a GB, but can't be sure, as not enough shows, and I've never seen it go out.* Just a little overkill perhaps?
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Old 07-05-2010, 09:37 AM   #22
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Re: Linseed oil on teak

The Linseed oil is going on (about 1/3rd of the cap rail). It looks good but the surface is rather gummy. You don't want to sit on it. One part was 100% raw linseed oil (it's a bit darker) and the rest 80% wood preservative (Dalys Benite) and RL oil. Perhaps I'll rub it down (or up) w turpentine later and get rid of most of the stickyness and get a more satin top surface. I hope. I'm convinced this (or some variation) will be the future.Yeah Marin * .. my Chris just loves to sand the cap rail * *...lucky me (and you).


Eric



-- Edited by nomadwilly on Monday 5th of July 2010 09:40:20 AM

-- Edited by nomadwilly on Monday 5th of July 2010 09:40:40 AM
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Old 07-05-2010, 02:44 PM   #23
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Re: Linseed oil on teak

Hiya,
** I don't think it's been mentioned in the whole thread but I always understood that BOILED linseed oil should be used.** Raw linseed oil never "sets up", hence the stickiness.* Just sayin'...

-- Edited by RT Firefly on Monday 5th of July 2010 02:47:04 PM
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Old 07-05-2010, 03:30 PM   #24
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Re: Linseed oil on teak

Quote:
RT Firefly wrote:" I always understood that BOILED linseed oil should be used.** Raw linseed oil never "sets up", hence the stickiness.* Just sayin'..."
That's been my understanding also.......



*


-- Edited by SeaHorse II on Monday 5th of July 2010 03:43:38 PM
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Old 07-05-2010, 08:22 PM   #25
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RE: Re: Linseed oil on teak

Not sure if it's boiled, un-boiled or both, but rags soaked in it can spontaneously combust. Be careful and either get rid of them immediately or keep in a metal can sealed up if you use it.
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Old 07-06-2010, 09:06 AM   #26
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RE: Re: Linseed oil on teak

Good comments all,Nobody can save me from myself. I was getting a little concerned * * .. I was going over the cliff and my friends were'nt even saying "I don't think I'd do that if I were you". However I knew that stuff except for the UV part. Was going to put an additive called "Paint Mildewcide" in the linseed oil but now that I'm using mostly Benite (a wood preservative) that has lots of poisons aboard to kill mildew fungus ect both in the wood and on it's surface. The wood is darker where I put the 100% LO and I'm using Raw LO so it dries much more slowly so it soaks into the wood better. Now that I've switched to 80/20 Benite and RLO the wood color is a bit more blond (I'm assuming it will darken w more coats) but more importantly it's almost not gummy at all. I'll probably get a rag soaked w somethin and attempt to knock down the oil on the surface that was coated w 100% LO. Raw LO was extensively used in the bilge of new wood boats. It's almost as thick as Log Cabin syrup. When I go on the rag Keith I'll try and not start fires. Today (at least this morning) it's raining a bit so I'll not get into any trouble at least till later. Thanks for savin me guys. I feel better.


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Old 07-07-2010, 01:51 AM   #27
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RE: Re: Linseed oil on teak

Quote:
Peter B wrote:

Hey Marin, speaking of covering the timber, how's this for an attack of coveritis....?* I think it's a GB, but can't be sure, as not enough shows, and I've never seen it go out.* Just a little overkill perhaps?


From what I can see of it, the hull doesn't look like a GB hull.* Maybe an Alaskan (built by the same company in wood only)?

If the owners don't use the boat much I can understand the covers.* If there's a lot of brightwork under there and the owners can afford or don't want to spend money on a boathouse, covers make a HUGE difference in the longevity of the finish.

There are some boats in our marina that have teak hand and cap rails.* Rather than use separate covers for both, they have covers that go over the handrails and then extend down all the way to cover the caprails.* Perhaps that''s what's on the boat in your photo.

*
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Old 07-07-2010, 04:07 PM   #28
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Re: Linseed oil on teak

Guys ,
I don't have varnished cap rails but being a timber boat I usually put a skirt around Tidahapah during the summer if I am not going anywhere.
Just lengths of shade cloth tied of at the rails and weighted at the bottom.
Attached a photo with a length of cloth removed.
The second photo shows the result of the summer sun in North Queensland. You can see where the paint is comming away near the port door

Benn

-- Edited by Tidahapah on Wednesday 7th of July 2010 04:09:33 PM
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Old 07-27-2010, 09:39 PM   #29
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RE: Re: Linseed oil on teak

Update,I found out the Benite does NOT have any preservatives in it at all. I then tried the mildewcide and it didn't mix w the Benite or the Linseed oil. I then got some Olympic Wood Preservative (w as much poison as is legal these days) and mixed it w RLO and turpentine.
I did this just before we left for Ketchikan. Two coats as I recall. It was quite gummy * ..not dry. After almost a month one can now sit on it. It looks good but has a texture that I'll probably sand off w turpentine (wet sand). I may not need any more LO till next spring. And if the basic finnish survives till then Boiled LO and turp may be all that will be needed.
Now I can start getting the same base on all the rest of the teak. Also I'll need to cut out another electronics platform (plank) finish it the same way and install to see if it will take a SE Ak winter.


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Old 11-13-2010, 09:02 PM   #30
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RE: Re: Linseed oil on teak

Update:
An update BEFORE winter. The teak coated w Henning's oil (25% raw linseed oil, 25% Olympic Wood Preservative and 50% turpentine) has held up fine to this point.
With later coatings I've added the proper amount of Japan Dryer (what's recommended on the bottle) to take some of the softness and stickyness out of the applied coating. I'm 99% happy w the Finnish as it is now. We'll see how it fares over the winter. The teak on the skylight and the aft salon door did come out a bit darker than the caprail but I'm happy w it.
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Old 11-15-2010, 08:27 PM   #31
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RE: Re: Linseed oil on teak

I use Bristol finish, works really well I had my top deck cap rail done with it (which gets the most sun btw) and it lasted almost 2 seasons in SoCal Sunshine. I started using it inside so I will never have to do inside for as long as I live..
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Old 12-13-2010, 10:47 PM   #32
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RE: Re: Linseed oil on teak

I have been using Sikkens Marine and diluting it by 40 % solvent and applying it with a rag on fresh teak;* then repeating 3 more coats (when each coat is dry).

This is on exterior teak. Looks good and lasts maximum 10 months.* I 'think' if you put it on in the spring and again in the fall, it will be better than most, as it doesn't seem to peel off. It does 'wash out' in places with most exposure to the elements.

I have been leaving out numerous samples of teak with a 'new' protective coating for the last ten years.....never found one that I would reccomend.

I believe , at the moment,* that Sikkens Marine is 'alright', if diluted and you keep applying it ....before it needs it.

regards...Ken
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Old 12-15-2010, 10:45 AM   #33
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RE: Re: Linseed oil on teak

I have heard pros and cons on thinning Cetol - the can says not to, but I have read somewhere that others advise it. What would the gurus recommend, and if thinned, with what?
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Old 12-15-2010, 03:35 PM   #34
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RE: Re: Linseed oil on teak

Carl,They use that Cetol stuff all over the place here in SE Alaska. Can't stand the orange color myself and I know they make clear now but having a hard time getting over the ogange that's still in my head. It would help (for me) if they'd say what it's made out of though. The Cetol I see seems to have a strong tendency to keep the wood from turning grey and I consider that very good. Perhaps the stuff they put in it that keeps the grey away is the stuff that makes it look orange??? I just looked in my Peter Culler book and he says kerosene "is often used mixed w linseed oil to drive the oil into the wood". *"some of us still think oil-base paint, usually white, grey, or red lead, sometimes all three in combination, well thinned with turps, is better as a primer on new work than the "undercoaters" often used, which dry quickly, are often hard and drive into the wood not at all". Mixing this w all the other stuff I've read by this man I'd wipe down w kerosene and thin w turpentine. All the above is relative to oil based paints and I haven't actually done the wipe w kero and coat w turp thinned oil based paints. Tung or linseed oil is to turpentine what BS is to politics. Turpentine aids penetration and it's mildew resistant too. I'd use turpentine to thin oil based paints.
Al Ross,
I think one must thin for a reason or not thin at all. Two main reasons to thin is penetrating ability or brush-ability. If you have a very low build coating and the surface is primed and sealed you surely won't want to thin unless you can't handle it w a brush. I'd say thin any oil based coating (heavily at first) when applying it to a porous surface and don't thin at all otherwise unless for brush-ability.
Ken,
I really like what you're doing but I'd use turpentine as the thinner.
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Old 12-15-2010, 04:11 PM   #35
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Re: Linseed oil on teak

Hiya,
** Mr. willy.
http://iyp.yachtpaint.com/Images/29_22355.pdf

http://www.yachtpaint.com/usa/diy/pr...&Product=cetol

MSDS sheets for Cetol may give you some idea of composition.

Hope this helps.
PS:* One of the ingredients is Stoddard solvent:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/White_spirit

-- Edited by RT Firefly on Wednesday 15th of December 2010 05:13:53 PM
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Old 12-15-2010, 05:09 PM   #36
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RE: Re: Linseed oil on teak

Looks like it all comes from a crude oil refinery. Linseed oil, Tung oil and turpentine all come from trees. I don't understand the Kerosene connection that Pete Culler talks about. He also talks about Pine Tar and Tallow. Lots about Tallow. Soddard Solvent is too closely related to gasoline. Cheap to put in a can though.
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Old 12-15-2010, 05:33 PM   #37
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Re: Linseed oil on teak

Hiya,
** Tung oil comes from trees?* I always figured it came from...



Who'da thunk.* Well, I learned something today-Thanks

-- Edited by RT Firefly on Wednesday 15th of December 2010 06:34:57 PM

-- Edited by RT Firefly on Wednesday 15th of December 2010 06:35:12 PM
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