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Old 10-12-2013, 07:15 AM   #21
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[QUOTE...]the epoxy is too rigid and will eventually crack

Epoxy can be as flexible as the hardener you chose to use.

From a brick to a fishing pole , your choice.[/QUOTE]

G/flex epoxy by West System should work.

WEST SYSTEM | Specialty Epoxies - G/flex

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Old 10-12-2013, 09:08 AM   #22
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What Larry said...
Epoxy is many times more flexible than the original polyester and should not crack in these types of situations. Also a big fan of G/flex for this type of repair; the specs. are just superior. I have owned a balsa cored boat since '74 and have done dozens of minor core repairs successfully with epoxy.

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Old 10-13-2013, 05:50 AM   #23
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Before commercial re batchers ,folks would buy hardners like Versamid to get the desired results.

Lots cheaper ,than purchasing from the repackaging folks.
Patent EP2092018A1 - Low odor, fast cure, toughened epoxy ...

Patent EP2092018A1 - Low odor, fast cure, toughened epoxy adhesive - Google Patents
Aug 26, 2009 - (ii) an amine hardner for said epoxy resin; and (iii) a synergistic ..... may be obtained from commercials sources, i.e., Versamid 140 (the reaction ...

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Old 10-13-2013, 04:55 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by captgrail View Post
Curious about your re bedding job on the Manatee. Were you able to disconnect that rail from the base at each stantion or did you have to take the whole railing off? I have one that leaks and I need to get it addressed before the rain starts. I'll do them all next year while I'm hauled the right way by refilling and drilling new holes. In the meantime... I've got the butyl tape. Can I just lift the screws and have enough clearance to clean the bottom? Your experience and recommendations are greatly appreciated.
I had a few I did the same thing with. When I detected that some may be the source of drips in the cabin, I loosened the retaining screws on the vertical, unbolted the stanchion and held it up with a wood block under one corner of the base, cleaned the underside of the stanchion and surface of the deck with a wet rag of acetone the best I could, formed a 3/4" or so butyl gasket in the shape of the stanchion and plopped it back down on the deck. Then I threaded some butyl around the head of each bolt and while I held the bolt head with a flathead screwdriver, my Admiral tightened the nuts underneath. It kept them from getting any worse till I could get to them. I still have some to do yet. You can see in the photos that I simply allowed the butyl to squeeze out as I tightened. I did this purposely to test whether or not the butyl would retain its flexibility in the Florida sun. One is a year old now and shows no change other than collecting some deck debris. Be aware that this was for a test only, and I wouldn't encourage you to leave so much as I did because even though the perimeter keeps water from draining to the stanchion base, it also keeps a puddle of water from draining out. Thus far, no leaks.

The stanchions on a Krogen Manatee can be done one at a time because each on is held to the horizontal rail with set screws. With the set screws loosened, the flexibility in the horizontal rail is sufficient to raise the stanchion just enough. On my boat, if I disconnected the rail from the life line connection half-way up, I could twist the vertical 360 degrees.
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Old 10-15-2013, 12:48 PM   #25
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Thank you healhustler, that was exactly what I was looking for. Being able to loosen the whole stanchion and swing it up made the cleanup process easy. The biggest issue was getting the right size deep sockets to get the nuts off - they were two different sizes of course. Seems like any kind of backing plate that could fit the space inside would be an added benefit. I know after doing this job I won't ever rely on the railings for support as much as I used to. One tip for anyone else doing this - To make my butyal tape pads I laid out three 5 1/2 inch strips overlapping the middle one between wax paper and then rolled them down flat with a rolling pin. Now I have my pads ready to go for the next ones.

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