Hi all, I purchased a trawler in Feburary and one of the items on the survey was high moisture readings around the water & fuel fills. The water fills leak in to the cabin. Should I try to dry out the core around the fittings before re-bedding ? If so, how would I accomplish this, or would it be fruitless & just caulk now to stop it. Any advise is appreciated. Thanks
Re-bedding deck fittings
- Thread starter gar
- Start date
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beachbum29
Guru
If you trap the moisture in, it will never go away and continue to wick out through the core.
I would want to remove the moisture then seal.
Others may have differing opinions.
I would want to remove the moisture then seal.
Others may have differing opinions.
Plumbers and electricians use a heat blanket to soften PVC pipe to make bends in it.
They have a thermostat for control and might be useful to dry out small areas of the hull, if the temp doesn't go too high.
They will run up the electric bill pretty fast. I know nothing of boats, but a little heat might help dry out those cores.
GREENLEE PVC Heating Blanket - PVC Heater-Benders - 5C638|860-1-1/2 - Grainger Industrial Supply
They have a thermostat for control and might be useful to dry out small areas of the hull, if the temp doesn't go too high.
They will run up the electric bill pretty fast. I know nothing of boats, but a little heat might help dry out those cores.
GREENLEE PVC Heating Blanket - PVC Heater-Benders - 5C638|860-1-1/2 - Grainger Industrial Supply
healhustler
Guru
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2009
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- Vessel Name
- Bucky
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- Krogen Manatee 36 North Sea
Gar: There's at least one guy here in Stuart, FL that does relatively "rapid" drying of hulls when doing major peal and glass jobs on cored hulls. He first makes sure that the core has no salt intrusion left, mainly by powerwashing the hull every day for a couple of weeks. Then, he uses alcohol baths to dry out the water for another week. I'm telling you this because I am also using alcohol to dry my own deck stanchion bases. Then, depending on the condition of the balsa core, I either douse with GitRot several times, or I may drill a larger hole, fill with thickened epoxy, and then drill out the original size holes before remounting. Of course, one should do one's best to rid the deck of any known rot, so if you find it, go after it.
beachbum29
Guru
I'm getting a deck and hull repair done right now because of moisture in Stuart.
We used the cut away, recore and then refiberglass method. It's a lot of work but, so far, the results has been outstanding.
He is replacing the balsa core with balsa back to factory specs so any hull inspection will give consistent results.
We used the cut away, recore and then refiberglass method. It's a lot of work but, so far, the results has been outstanding.
He is replacing the balsa core with balsa back to factory specs so any hull inspection will give consistent results.
Steve
Guru
tiku
Veteran Member
I suggest that if you are not already familiar with this link, have a look. Lots of information on fittings, sealing etc..
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/boat_projects
To me his methods make sense
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/boat_projects
To me his methods make sense
