Prop removal and scan

[Comodave]

The PO of my boat put multiple coatings on the props and shafts. I have no idea what the coatings are but they are flaking off badly and have left a very rough surface on the props. I am going to have them scanned to see how true they are. I have some minor vibrations on the starboard side at higher RPMs. The prop shop sent me a puller but it would walk off the end of the shaft repeatedly. So I made my own puller that worked very well. I used 3/8” steel plate and 5/8” grade 8 bolts. I also had to buy a 24” adjustable wrench in order to remove the 2 1/2” prop nuts. Interesting that the port shaft is left hand thread... guess how long it took to figure that out. My keys and keyway are also different than I expected in that the keys are rounded on both ends and the keyway fits the keys exactly. I have not been able to remove the keys from the shaft so far. I am going to take the props in next week.

 

[bayview]

proper keys are rounded so they don't as easily ride up the end of the keyway.
Square keys work with a little more care.

 

[GFC]

I don't know what those coatings were but I gotta say I don't think I've ever seen a prop surface so f'd up. Those things look like they've been in salt water for many years.


If you're on the hard right now (pulled for the winter???) I'd suggest getting down there with a sander and get the rest of those coatings off the rest of the running gear.

 

[Northern Spy]

Is that grease on the shaft? If so, do not use grease on the taper when reinstalling the prop. A very light film of oil may be used. But not grease.

 

[Northern Spy]

As far as the key goes, it has a radiused end because the keyseat in the shaft is endmilled (with a vertical cutter) parrallel to the taper in accordance with the standards ( ABYC P6 and SAE 755) to have a radiused end as well. Which makes a lot of sense, because if the keyseat was cut with a horizontal mill, it would have a "ramp" at the end which the key would possibly ride up and may prevent the propeller hub from sliding all the way on the shaft taper.

 

[Northern Spy]

My prop kind of looked like that when I pulled it after I used zinc primer as an antifouling on it once.

 

[Datenight]

The prop shop sent me a puller but it would walk off the end of the shaft repeatedly. So I made my own puller that worked very well. I used 3/8” steel plate and 5/8” grade 8 bolts.


Hi Comodave,

I made almost the identical puller years ago. Simple, cheap and effective. It is at our Yacht Club now as it gets more use that way.

Rob

 

[OldDan1943]

I wouldn't worry about cleaning it up. If you take it in for NDT scan and balance, they will clean it up for you. After that, your bottom cleaning diver should keep the prop pretty clean.

 

[Comodave]

Yes, they are going to clean the props up when they scan them. That may be the vibration that I noticed. No, I will not grease the shafts. There should not be any grease. If it was greased it didn’t help to get them off. One was really hard to get off, I was about to give up when it popped off with a bang. The other prop was not too bad to get off. I would have liked to get the keys out but I am not sure if I will be able to or not. I wanted to lap the prop when I reinstalled them. We don’t have the bottom cleaned here except when they oressure wash it while hauling for the winter.

 

[OldDan1943]

Yes, they are going to clean the props up when they scan them. That may be the vibration that I noticed. No, I will not grease the shafts. There should not be any grease. If it was greased it didn’t help to get them off. One was really hard to get off, I was about to give up when it popped off with a bang. The other prop was not too bad to get off. I would have liked to get the keys out but I am not sure if I will be able to or not. I wanted to lap the prop when I reinstalled them. We don’t have the bottom cleaned here except when they oressure wash it while hauling for the winter.

OUCH!! No bottom cleaners? Ask around. I know in this part of FL, I think we have more divers than necessary. Perhaps you can capture one and take him north?

 

[OldDan1943]

I wanted to lap the prop when I reinstalled them. We don’t have the bottom cleaned here except when they oressure wash it while hauling for the winter.

What part are you going to lap?
Remember, props are supposed to be a tight fit on the shaft.
The divers here will gladly remove the props while the boat is in the water. For an additional fee.

 

[Northern Spy]

I believe he would like to remove the key and lap the prop hub to the shaft taper. Great idea. A bluing check after is a good idea too. If more people did this there would be less need for hammers and prop pullers upon disassembly.

 

[OldDan1943]

I believe he would like to remove the key and lap the prop hub to the shaft taper. Great idea. A bluing check after is a good idea too. If more people did this there would be less need for hammers and prop pullers upon disassembly.

A 3 finger wheel pullings work better than a hammer to POP the wheel.

I do like the bluing check.

 

[Comodave]

Actually we don’t need a diver to clean the bottom here, not much of anything builds up over the summer just a bit of slime that comes off with a pressure wash on haul out.

Yes, I wanted to lap the prop and shaft and check with machinist blueing to check the fit. However if I can’t get the keys out that won’t be possible.

 

[jleonard]

The keys will come out. Be creative. If you damage them you can buy key stock cheap enough via McMaster carr online.

 

[OldDan1943]

The keys will come out. Be creative. If you damage them you can buy key stock cheap enough via McMaster carr online.

Just remember not to damage the shaft and seating area.

 

[Comodave]

Just an update. Got the props back today. They look brand new. I had them repitched down a half an inch to 23.5”. I have the before and after scans and will try to put them on here if I can figure out how to get them to upload. I will install the props but won’t be able to see if it helped with my vibrations until after we launch in the spring.

 

[GFC]

Dave, those look great. Whatever company you had tune them did a good job for you.

 

[Alaskan Sea-Duction]

Dave, those look great. Whatever company you had tune them did a good job for you.

I agree with GFC, Dave. Which outfit did the work for you?

 

[OldDan1943]

Dave, take more pictures. It will be the last time they will look that way. Once installed, they will begin to tarnish, at least.
SMILE

 

[BruceK]

Could be Holland Propeller, of Holland, Michigan. Ph 616 355 2900.

 

[Comodave]

Yes, it was Holland Prop. It seems that they did a great job. Certainly the props can be eliminated in my search for a vibration on the starboard side. Yes they will never look as nice as now, but I am not going to coat them. Just getting rid of the almost 1/8” of old coatings probably would have helped...

 

[psneeld]

If your props don't look like that after a visit to the proper shop, I would be surprised.

Not that well tuned props need to look pretty, but it is gratifying for a short time.

 

[jleonard]

Hale propeller in Saybrook, Ct actually polishes "Hale" into one of the blades.

I think that attracts the fish.

 

[psneeld]

The fish that come and pay the bill?

 

[hmason]

A guy I know that does bottom painting in a local yard signs his work in a contrasting color on the hull bottom.

 

[PJHoffnet]

Looking at the prop reports looks like the work was done by Holland Propellers in Holland Mi.

 

[Fish Isla]

By the looks of the taper on the shaft it doesn't look like the props were lapped very well. I would be getting the keys out and lapping them properly. All the propscaning in the world won't help if there is a burr or high spot on the shaft or the props are riding on the key.