Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 02-05-2013, 10:53 AM   #41
Senior Member
 
fstbttms's Avatar
 
City: Under a boat, in a marina in the San Francisco Bay
Country: USA
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 447
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjones744 View Post
It's like a battery reaction between the metals. That's why copper based paint isn't used on aluminum boats.
Yes, I understand that. What I didn't understand was that we had somehow ended up discussing outboard motor propellers.
__________________
Advertisement

__________________
Clean bottoms are FastBottoms!
fstbttms is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2013, 11:25 AM   #42
Newbie
 
City: Tampa
Country: US
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 3
Quote:
Originally Posted by BruceK View Post
Welcome Aboard!

If you use antifouling,it should be a hard type, not an ablative soft type you might use on the hull.
The best treatment for the running gear is Propspeed which I will do next time.
I am surprised the yard would ask that question.Maybe it was about using Propspeed.
How long a/f lasts depends on location. You`d hope the hull and running gear last as long as each other.
As someone suggested using hard vs. ablative...the hard will have copper usually so an ablative needs to be used. As a lot of ablatives will be marketed as outdrive paint, bottom paint, aluminum bottoms, props....
__________________

kjones744 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2013, 11:42 AM   #43
Senior Member
 
fstbttms's Avatar
 
City: Under a boat, in a marina in the San Francisco Bay
Country: USA
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 447
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjones744 View Post
As someone suggested using hard vs. ablative...the hard will have copper usually so an ablative needs to be used. As a lot of ablatives will be marketed as outdrive paint, bottom paint, aluminum bottoms, props....
Most hard and ablative anti fouling paints that you would put on your hull are typically copper-based. If you are looking for an anti fouling product for an aluminium prop (and I still don't understand how we even got on the subject of aluminum props) you need to use a product that is zinc-based (tin being banned in most seafaring nations.)

Interlux sells an aeresol can of Trilux 33 and West Marine also sells an aeresol can of zinc-based paint for aluminum, simply called "Outdrive Spray."
__________________
Clean bottoms are FastBottoms!
fstbttms is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2013, 11:44 AM   #44
Guru
 
Brooksie's Avatar
 
City: Cape Cod, MA
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Island Seeker
Vessel Model: Willard 36 Sedan
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 953
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hendo78 View Post
Oh please don't start this again. It's been proven that the black pen trick is fake.
Oh really, I didn't know that. I'll stop using it right away.
Brooksie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2013, 01:46 PM   #45
Guru
 
HopCar's Avatar


 
City: Miami Florida
Vessel Name: Possum
Vessel Model: Ellis 28
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 3,489
Just to be clear on this, most of us have bronze propellers and it is safe to put a copper containing paint on them.
In my opinion no regular bottom paint, hard or ablative, lasts as long on a propeller as Prop Speed. I think it's worth the additional expense, others won't.

I think this is the zinc product that has been mentioned. I haven't tried it and don't know anyone who has so I can't express an opinion on it.
HopCar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2013, 02:32 PM   #46
JD
Guru
 
JD's Avatar
 
City: New Bern NC
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Stella Di Mare
Vessel Model: Mainship 34t
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,702
Quote:
Originally Posted by gar View Post
Many Thanks to all. I never thought I would get so many replies from near and far. I am bringing the vessel up to the lower Chesapeake in April & will post more info and pics then. I will ask the marina in North Carolina what brand of treatment he plans to use-he did not specify in his quote. Thanks Again.
Where in NC? Which marina?

BTW I have PropSpeed here in NC and it works great. We have a diver all year round. He does every other month in the warm weather and every third in the colder months. We are going on three years and the bottom is getting thin. The diver tells me the he doesn't have to scrape anything from the prop or shaft. If something is on there he said it comes off with just a touch. He recommends that I just run the boat in gear at the dock every couple of weeks and that will throw anything that is on the running gear off.

We are hauling in April and we will be putting PS back on.
__________________
Vinny

M/V Stella Di Mare
New Bern NC
JD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2013, 03:22 PM   #47
Senior Member
 
magicbus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 460
I too use Petit's Barnacle Barrier. After six months all of my underwater metal looks like the day I painted it. This year we will be staying in all year so I will put on an extra coat. At $25/can it is cheap, easy, and it works.

Dave
__________________
Barnegat Light NJ or Nantucket MA
magicbus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2013, 05:34 PM   #48
Guru
 
BruceK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,552
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjones744 View Post
As someone suggested using hard vs. ablative...the hard will have copper usually so an ablative needs to be used. As a lot of ablatives will be marketed as outdrive paint, bottom paint, aluminum bottoms, props....
Antifouling running gear usually requires full prep, back to bare metal and priming, before a/f goes on. Would that insulate any metal dissimilarity?
BTW I understand Propspeed also requires back to clean metal prep.
I find a final clean with a wire brush mounted on a 100mm/4" angle grinder does the job.
__________________
BruceK
Island Gypsy 36 Europa "Doriana"
Sydney Australia
BruceK is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2013, 05:41 PM   #49
Guru
 
bobofthenorth's Avatar
 
City: Cowichan Bay, BC
Country: Canada
Vessel Name: Gray Hawk
Vessel Model: Defever 43 Offshore Cruiser
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 570
Quote:
Originally Posted by BruceK View Post
I find a final clean with a wire brush mounted on a 100mm/4" angle grinder does the job.
Our yard recommended Scotch Brite pads on an air 90. It worked like a charm and went surprisingly quickly.
__________________
R.J.(Bob) Evans
www.rjevans.org
www.travellingwithgeorge.blogspot.com
bobofthenorth is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2013, 12:54 AM   #50
Guru
 
HopCar's Avatar


 
City: Miami Florida
Vessel Name: Possum
Vessel Model: Ellis 28
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 3,489
BruceK, you can put copper bottom paint directly on bronze running gear without primer and not have electrolisis. The primer is suggested to help the paint adhere to the metal. Don't forget that bronze is mostly copper.

"As someone suggested using hard vs. ablative...the hard will have copper usually so an ablative needs to be used."
Actually most ablative paints are copper based. The copper is only a problem on aluminum boats or aluminum props such as you might find on an outboard.
HopCar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-17-2013, 06:10 PM   #51
Senior Member
 
City: Hong Kong
Country: Hong Kong
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 210
Zingard from Mgduff

It seams like there is no clear winner in this propeller coat competition - there is a lot of good stuff, some works perfectly well in one harbor but doesn't work 50 miles away. I guess there are too many variables, such as salinity, water temperature, propeller in direct sun or shaded, local currents, tidal influence, propeller speed (RPM), boat speed, how often the boat is used and the moon position

So the best solution for me is one with compromises.

Mgduff Zingard (probably similar to Pettit) is a zinc product, which requires a little effort initially (but no more than other products).

The beauty of this product is that the next application - say two years later - only requires a quick washdown / cleaning of the propeller and then the next layer of Zingard can be sprayed on. No priming or other "demanding" jobs are required. The next layer of the Zingard is sprayed directly onto the old layer and bonds with it.

Once or twice during the season I plan on diving and then plaster the propeller with propeller grease to support the zinc.

The added benefit of Zingard (or other zinc products) is that it also acts like a zinc directly on the propeller and therefore protects against corrosion

PropeSpeed or similar products does not do this.
Searios is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-17-2013, 11:09 PM   #52
Scraping Paint
 
City: -
Country: -
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 13,748
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy G View Post

Like Peter, my anodes do get some growth on them, however they do seem to be bonded as at about 18 months there is not much left.
If your anodes are going away then they are doing their job. Perhaps the slight growth you and Peter see on them is due to your environment of warmer water and more sunlight. Where here in the PNW the cold water and reduced sunlight are enough to keep the anodes growth-free.
Marin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-17-2013, 11:53 PM   #53
Guru
 
Nomad Willy's Avatar
 
City: Concrete Washington State
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Willy
Vessel Model: Willard Nomad 30'
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 13,701
Well if zinc is so good why not take the prop to a galvanizer and have it hot dipped in zinc?

With so much surface area in zinc it could create an over zinced condition. And electrolysis could eat away the zinc faster than anti-fouling paint would fail.

ArmorAll seemed to work in Alaska for me and I know of nobody using it down here so I'll probably just stick w it until it fails it's so cheap and easy.
__________________
Eric

North Western Washington State USA
Nomad Willy is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-18-2013, 04:45 AM   #54
Senior Member
 
City: Hong Kong
Country: Hong Kong
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 210
Good point, why are props not dipped in zinc? Weight or balance problems?

Mine is a CPP type and I don't think that hot dipping will work ..
Searios is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2013, 03:31 AM   #55
Senior Member
 
City: Hong Kong
Country: Hong Kong
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 210
almost like hot dipping

Some coats are actually heated and applied - almost like hot dipping

Flame Spray:Thermal Spray Coatings of San Diego
Searios is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-10-2014, 06:07 PM   #56
Guru
 
Nomad Willy's Avatar
 
City: Concrete Washington State
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Willy
Vessel Model: Willard Nomad 30'
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 13,701
I'm between coats now w the Petit Barnacle Barrier. The only thing that implies that it has any anti-fouling properties is in the name Barnacle Barrier. Nowhere else on the can does it suggest it has anti-fouling properties. But zinc is used in some anti-fouling coatings ... for fresh water I think. Got two coats on one side of the prop now. I plan on hauling next year and if the prop looks good I'll re coat w the BB. But that's next year.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF1587 copy 2.jpg
Views:	112
Size:	181.1 KB
ID:	31943  
__________________
Eric

North Western Washington State USA
Nomad Willy is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-10-2014, 07:08 PM   #57
Senior Member
 
Nsail's Avatar
 
City: Benicia CA
Country: USA
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 498
Should we assume your Armorall finally failed you, and that's why you switched to Pettit?
Nsail is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-10-2014, 09:44 PM   #58
Guru
 
psneeld's Avatar
 
City: Avalon, NJ
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Freedom
Vessel Model: Albin 40
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 15,853
Regular galvanizing (essentially Petit Barnacle Barrier) doesn't do much here in Jersey near an inlet...my bottom is still clean but rudder and prop are pretty heavily covered in growth. The bottom and running gear was painted in June with no movement since....maybe a low rpm turn of the engine back in July.
psneeld is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-10-2014, 11:43 PM   #59
Guru
 
Nomad Willy's Avatar
 
City: Concrete Washington State
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Willy
Vessel Model: Willard Nomad 30'
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 13,701
I'm ever the optimist Scott and Nsail I just don't think the Armor All will be effective down here in these long hot summers. But it hasn't failed. The Barnacle Barrier should be better and it's cheap and easy. Not as easy to apply as the AA though. I wonder how many don't put anything on their props. Perhaps most??
__________________
Eric

North Western Washington State USA
Nomad Willy is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-11-2014, 12:30 PM   #60
Senior Member
 
fstbttms's Avatar
 
City: Under a boat, in a marina in the San Francisco Bay
Country: USA
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 447
Quote:
Originally Posted by manyboats View Post
I wonder how many don't put anything on their props. Perhaps most??
Based on my twenty years hull cleaning experience, I'd say over 90% of boat owners do not coat their running gear.
__________________

__________________
Clean bottoms are FastBottoms!
fstbttms is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off





All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:22 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2006 - 2012