Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 02-04-2013, 07:13 AM   #21
Guru
 
Tidahapah's Avatar
 
City: Mooloolaba
Country: Australia
Vessel Name: Tidahapah
Vessel Model: Bert Ellis Timber motor cruiser
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,779
Hendo,
That's the outer prop shaft bearing carrier.
Can be either a composite bearing or as in my case a grease lubricated white metal bearing.
Cheers
Benn
__________________
Advertisement

__________________
"When I die I hope my wife doesn't sell my toys for what I told her I paid for them"
Money: It's made round to go round , not flat to stack.
"Get out and do it"
Tidahapah is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2013, 08:22 AM   #22
Guru
 
Hendo78's Avatar
 
City: Perth
Country: Australia
Vessel Name: M/V SOLSTICE
Vessel Model: Hendo "Special"
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 2,275
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tidahapah View Post
Hendo,
That's the outer prop shaft bearing carrier.
Can be either a composite bearing or as in my case a grease lubricated white metal bearing.
Cheers
Benn
Ah ok cool. Thanks for that mate. Thought it was a shaft seal or somethin and thought that, that would be a great idea.
__________________

__________________
***I use and recommend ANCHOR RIGHT Anchors***
Hendo78 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2013, 09:24 AM   #23
Master and Commander
 
markpierce's Avatar
 
City: Vallejo CA
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Carquinez Coot
Vessel Model: 2011 Seahorse Marine Coot hull #6
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 10,251
The first time I had the Coot hauled out in order to repaint the bottom there were barnacles growing on the propeller after being in the water about 18 months. So, had the propeller treated. We'll see how that works out during the next haul out.
__________________
Kar-KEEN-ez Koot
markpierce is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2013, 11:27 AM   #24
Guru
 
Brooksie's Avatar
 
City: Cape Cod, MA
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Island Seeker
Vessel Model: Willard 36 Sedan
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 954
Have tried a number of "home remedies" over the years and settled on two coats of black Sharpie marker. Lasts all season here in the Northeast. Also use same on my FL boat but that gets moved at least weekly.
Brooksie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2013, 12:00 PM   #25
Guru
 
Codger2's Avatar
 
City: San Diego
Country: US
Vessel Name: "Sandpiper"
Vessel Model: 2006 42' Ocean Alexander Sedan
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 5,420
Quote:
Originally Posted by BruceK View Post
The best treatment for the running gear is Propspeed which I will do next time.
Several years ago I tried Prop Speed and as I recall the bill was in excess of $400. Since I have a diver who cleans the bottom and prop every 4 weeks, (in the summer) I decided not to opt for the Prop Speed at the last haul out. The prop looked fine, which was the result of the diver's effort.
In my case, with frequent bottom cleans, I don't think it's worth it. Now, I have noticed that my gph has creeped up from 4 gph to 4.2 gph at 2000rpm (FloScan) and my diver has informed me that it's time for new bottom paint.
It's been 2.5 years since the last bottom job.
__________________
Codger2

My passion for improving my boat(s) exceeds my desire to constantly cruise them.
Codger2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2013, 06:12 PM   #26
Guru
 
BruceK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,557
From posts here and other opinions, Propspeed is a favored product, but zinc treatment is worth exploring.
Has anyone in Australia used it in any form? I`ve not heard of it or seen it for sale as an antifouling product.
Would one of the cold galvanizing brush applied products do the job?
Does the zinc coating become an anode, how would that affect the running gear?
Does it last for the life of the hull a/f?
__________________
BruceK
Island Gypsy 36 Europa "Doriana"
Sydney Australia
BruceK is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2013, 06:35 PM   #27
Scraping Paint
 
City: -
Country: -
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 13,748
Quote:
Originally Posted by BruceK View Post
....but zinc treatment is worth exploring.
Has anyone in Australia used it in any form? I`ve not heard of it or seen it for sale as an antifouling product.
Would one of the cold galvanizing brush applied products do the job?
Does the zinc coating become an anode, how would that affect the running gear?
Does it last for the life of the hull a/f?
I'd forgotten the name so I just called the yard we use and the spray-can product I was referring to earlier is Petit's Barnacle Barrier. It's a single-season coating, or as the yard manager told me, good for about a year. A can is $30-$40.

This yard no longer uses it but not because it doesn't work as advertised. They started getting flack from some environmental groups that make it their business to "patrol" Puget Sound waterfronts, shipyards, etc. looking for environmental "problems." Because it's a spray-on coating and there are contaminants in it the environmental people were saying that it gets into the air and thus into the water.

Rather than deal with the hassel the yard simply stopped using it themselves. But it is available locally at places like Fisheries Supply and there is nothing to prevent an individual boat owner from buying it and applying it him/herself.

So, works good but only for a single season or so.
Marin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2013, 07:08 PM   #28
Guru
 
bobofthenorth's Avatar
 
City: Cowichan Bay, BC
Country: Canada
Vessel Name: Gray Hawk
Vessel Model: Defever 43 Offshore Cruiser
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 570
That's the same material that Platypus recommended to us last spring. They actually talked us out of Prop Speed. Same deal - we bought the zinc paint at a local chandler and put it on ourselves. As I recall I put one can on each prop and got about 3 coats per prop that way BICBW.
__________________
R.J.(Bob) Evans
www.rjevans.org
www.travellingwithgeorge.blogspot.com
bobofthenorth is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2013, 08:19 PM   #29
Guru
 
psneeld's Avatar
 
City: Avalon, NJ
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Freedom
Vessel Model: Albin 40
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 15,861
I don't know why anyone thinks zinc has anti-fouling properties...it's not a significant portion of any anti-fouling paint and sacrificial zincs get covered with marine growth as fast as any other underwater part that does not have anti-fouling on it.

It may be used to assist some biocides or used in a paint for other reasons...but just plain old zinc or galvanizing zinc I don't think does much as evidenced by growth on every zinc you strap/bolt on.
psneeld is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2013, 09:13 PM   #30
Guru
 
Hendo78's Avatar
 
City: Perth
Country: Australia
Vessel Name: M/V SOLSTICE
Vessel Model: Hendo "Special"
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 2,275
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brooksie View Post
Have tried a number of "home remedies" over the years and settled on two coats of black Sharpie marker. Lasts all season here in the Northeast. Also use same on my FL boat but that gets moved at least weekly.
Oh please don't start this again. It's been proven that the black pen trick is fake.
__________________
***I use and recommend ANCHOR RIGHT Anchors***
Hendo78 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2013, 09:45 PM   #31
Scraping Paint
 
City: -
Country: -
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 13,748
Quote:
Originally Posted by psneeld View Post
..and sacrificial zincs get covered with marine growth as fast as any other underwater part that does not have anti-fouling on it.
.
If they do then the zincs are not working. The tiny amount of current in them will keep them free of growth. In fact, this is one way to tell if a zinc anode is doing its job or not. I learned this from our marine electrical shop and the dive shop that does our boat twice a year.

This has always been the case on our boat and the boats I see come out on the Travelift in the yard in our marina. Regardless of the barnacle and weed buildup on the hull itself, the zincs or what's left of them are always totally growth-free.

A couple of times we have gone longer than we wanted between haulouts and bottom paint. The boat had a good coating of slime and "moss" below the waterline and a fringe of fine weed at the waterline even though we were using the boat regularly. When we got in the dinghy we could see the rudders had barnacles on their trailing edges. But the zincs on our transom were clean as a whistle in terms of growth and when the boat finally came out, so were the shaft zincs. They were deteriorating, of course, as they should. But nothing could grow on them because of the current, as miniscule as it is.

When the boat's in its slip we also hang a zinc about eight feet down off the stern on a heavy cable that's clamped into the boat's bonding system. The cable and the line the zinc's hanging on get thick with algae and weed, particularly in the summer. But the zinc itself will have nothing whatsoever growing on it.

So if you've got weed or growth on a zinc anode itself, that anode is not properly tied into the boat's bonding system. Could be a corroded connection-- -it doesn't take much to stop the tiny bit of current as I discovered the other year--- could be a broken connection, or something else. But if you've got bottom growth forming on a zinc anode, you've got a problem.

A couple of years ago when the dive shop changed our two transom zincs one of them started to deteriorate as normal but the other one stayed looking brand new. Then algae and weed began to form on it. That's when I learned what I related above. I checked the continuity of the bonding straps and wires in the lazarette and the continuity was good to the mounting bolts for both zincs. So why was one going away and the other wasn't?

I mentioned this to a good friend who is a retired marine engineer and he told me how little resistance it takes to stop the flow of current to an anode. On his suggestion I got some bronze wool and from the lowered dingy removed the non-working zinc from its mounting bolts under the swimstep. I polished the bronze mounting bolts with the bronze wool and reinstalled the zinc. End of problem. There was just enough surface corrosion or whatever on the bolts to isolate the zinc from the bonding system.

I usually replace the transom zincs myself because they are easy to reach and cleaning off the mounting bolts has become part of the routine now. And the problem of a non-deteriorating, weed-growing zinc has never come back.
Marin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2013, 11:02 PM   #32
TF Site Team
 
Peter B's Avatar
 
City: Brisbane
Country: Australia
Vessel Name: Lotus
Vessel Model: Clipper (CHB) 34 Sedan/Europa style
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 6,669
Send a message via Skype™ to Peter B
My zincs slowly dissolve so I assume are doing what they are supposed to do, but they always have a bit of algae on them when the boat comes out.
It would appear the main reason for going for PropSpeed in it looks like you can get up to 3 yrs out of it, and a similar time from good anti foul. So when you look at it that way, the extra cost over this magic zing stuff is justified. I don't want to have to haul out every year, or pay a diver to clean down several times a year, either. In fact I don't think we are allowed to do that in the water here anyway.
Peter B is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2013, 11:04 PM   #33
Senior Member
 
fstbttms's Avatar
 
City: Under a boat, in a marina in the San Francisco Bay
Country: USA
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 447
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter B View Post
It would appear the main reason for going for PropSpeed in it looks like you can get up to 3 yrs out of it...
That would easily be 3 times as long as I've ever seen it last.
__________________
Clean bottoms are FastBottoms!
fstbttms is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2013, 12:50 AM   #34
Hospitality Officer
 
Andy G's Avatar
 
City: Pittwater
Country: Australia
Vessel Name: Sarawana
Vessel Model: IG 36 Quad Cabin
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,557
Interesting point about the anodes not getting a growth built-up if they are properly bonded.

Like Peter, my anodes do get some growth on them, however they do seem to be bonded as at about 18 months there is not much left. Will check the bonding system though. Other than a visual inspection can anyone recommend a good way to check if the boats bonding system is doing its job?
Andy G is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2013, 05:43 AM   #35
TF Site Team
 
Peter B's Avatar
 
City: Brisbane
Country: Australia
Vessel Name: Lotus
Vessel Model: Clipper (CHB) 34 Sedan/Europa style
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 6,669
Send a message via Skype™ to Peter B
Quote:
Originally Posted by fstbttms View Post
That would easily be 3 times as long as I've ever seen it last.
Well, I'll let you know soon, as she will becoming out after nearly 3 yrs in a couple of months, and I'll take pics.
Peter B is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2013, 07:00 AM   #36
Guru
 
psneeld's Avatar
 
City: Avalon, NJ
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Freedom
Vessel Model: Albin 40
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 15,861
I'll agree Marin..good tip..I'll be watching mine closer from now on.

Scary how many out there aren't working when boats are finally hauled...especially on outboards/outdrives that really need them.
psneeld is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2013, 09:03 AM   #37
Newbie
 
City: Tampa
Country: US
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 3
Just make sure you don't put any of your copper anti foul on the prop....copper will eat pinholes in that. Use a copper free antifoul like Smart Solution Outdrive Paint. Another factor to keep in mind...if you have a color bottom paint (like blue) then paint the prop with copper free blue it won't match. Copper based paint isn't as bright as the copper free stuff so stick with black for the prop.
kjones744 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2013, 09:39 AM   #38
Senior Member
 
fstbttms's Avatar
 
City: Under a boat, in a marina in the San Francisco Bay
Country: USA
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 447
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjones744 View Post
Just make sure you don't put any of your copper anti foul on the prop....copper will eat pinholes in that.
Really? Exactly how does that happen?
__________________
Clean bottoms are FastBottoms!
fstbttms is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2013, 10:00 AM   #39
Guru
 
Anode's Avatar


 
City: Missourah
Country: USA
Vessel Name: M/V Scout
Vessel Model: Sundowner Tug 30'
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 645
Quote:
Originally Posted by fstbttms View Post
Really? Exactly how does that happen?
Aluminum outboard prop
__________________
Chip

Deliveries & Yacht Services
www.captainchip.com
Anode is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2013, 10:03 AM   #40
Newbie
 
City: Tampa
Country: US
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 3
Quote:
Originally Posted by fstbttms View Post
Really? Exactly how does that happen?
It's like a battery reaction between the metals. That's why copper based paint isn't used on aluminum boats.
__________________

kjones744 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off





All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:02 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2006 - 2012