Preferred Bilge Coatings

[Brian1e]

What are your preferences, and opinions on bilge paints. I don't really think I want to gel-coat. Interlux, Pettit, or Jamestown total boat bilge coatings? Advantages, disadvantages of each. They all appear to be fine products.

Thanks

 

[Lou_tribal]

I repaint my aft bilge with bilge kote white and it was nice, at least cleaner than before I used pre kote as the primer and 2 layers of bilge kote.

 

[cool beans]

I used Bilge Kote in my sailboat, and probably will in the Bayliner once I get too it.

 

[Comodave]

I like Bilge Coat. Easy to clean stuff off it.

 

[Scratchnsaw]

I don't know what is currently on your bilge area now. But if its fiberglass now and you are looking for a good and durable coating, and long lasting, try some Sherwin Williams Tile Clad Epoxy coatings. Its two part and can be tinted to almost any color. Benjamin Moore has a similar product called Polymide Coatings. They also have high gloss and semi gloss and can also be tinted to any color.

Theirs comes in several stock colors in addition to white. I use both products on a regular basis in my lockers over time in lieu of traditional paints. Paints in hidden areas needs to be redone when chipped or will also turn yellow if you are using white.

 

[FF]

NOTHING!

Boats have been known to run aground , far easier to find structural damage if the hull is not painted over.

 

[JohnP]

Had good success with White Gloss Rustoleum. Cheap at Home Depot or Walmart.. Only problem is it is slow drying.

 

[Scratchnsaw]

NOTHING!

Boats have been known to run aground , far easier to find structural damage if the hull is not painted over.

On the opposite end of the spectrum, a polyester resin uncoated or sealed fiberglass hull has a tendancy to absorb water from the inside in closed areas and especially below waterline, where the natural changes in temps creates dampness in most of the voided and closed areas such as the bilges.

This is one issue that many surveyors have found in hulls even without blisters on the bottom in the older hulls, which is cosmetically apparent under the bottom paints of the older hulls when hauling out.

. Polyester resin continues the process of curing, called post curing and this is the reason why they naturally become heavier unless you wax gelcoat hulls on a regular basis. This is just a small article that describes this action.

Boat Hull Blisters : Illustration of Water Absorption From a Hull Interior - by David Pascoe, Marine Surveyor

Since the 90s the more improved resins and finishes have minimized this natural latent defect that has nothing to do with any builders fault. But this is one of the reasons why any and all repairs use an epoxy based product in the repairs. So the epoxy coatings are superior to any and all paint products in glass hulls in particular. While the idea that epoxy is water proof, water resistant is a truer term. It has a solid cure time with measurable post curing taking place.


I will add that you really need to clean any and all areas before you apply any materials. TSP works really well and is not as toxic to your nasal passages either. I do use rubber gloves though.

 

[Scratchnsaw]

For anyone killing time and likes reading up on issues related to blistering, check this out. Its pretty technical but thorough.


The Real Story of Osmosis Blistering

 

[what_barnacles]

This stuff looks promising...

https://www.durabakcompany.com/marine/

 

[Brian1e]

Well it looks like Bilge Coat will be the coating of choice. I was looking for easy and durable, hoping to avoid the catalyzed coatings. This is actually phase 1 of the engine room spruce up. The portion of the bilge I am immediately concerned with is the keel sump. The boat is currently on the hard for a bottom job. This portion of the bilge would be very difficult to keep dry in the water.

Thanks for all the comments, they have been duly noted for future reference.

 

[Scratchnsaw]

Well it looks like Bilge Coat will be the coating of choice. I was looking for easy and durable, hoping to avoid the catalyzed coatings. This is actually phase 1 of the engine room spruce up. The portion of the bilge I am immediately concerned with is the keel sump. The boat is currently on the hard for a bottom job. This portion of the bilge would be very difficult to keep dry in the water.

Thanks for all the comments, they have been duly noted for future reference.

Well if its constantly wet, oil base products are not as friendly, and may blister up in short order.

 

[sean9c]

Just use Interlux Bilgekote, easy to use and good abrasion and solvent resistance. It comes in white and grey. Grey is pretty dark. I mix either 2 or 3 part white with 1 part grey depending how light I want the grey.

 

[Deano]

I think Bilgecoat or other quality single part paint is okay for areas of the engine room which stay high and dry. Any lower areas which get frequently wet or immersed in water should have a quality two part coating such as Tile Clad. Any previously painted areas to which epoxy is to be applied should have a proper barrier coat of a primer which will not desolve the paint underneath. Learned that the hard way. Paint is only as good as the surface it's attaching to.

 

[FF]

Any GRP boat afloat for decades will be water logged from the outside , as well as from the inside.

Gell coat is not waterproof .

This is normal.

 

[bayview]

I was happy with bilge coat. Its oil base is more compatible with whatever oil film many be on the surface.

 

[ddalme]

Had good success with White Gloss Rustoleum. Cheap at Home Depot or Walmart.. Only problem is it is slow drying.

Second that-easy to apply and cleans up nicely-and you can get it almost anywhere. I repainted on a weekend and checked it the next weekend and it was hard as a rock. I cleaned and sanded before applying.

 

[Tom.B]

Second that-easy to apply and cleans up nicely-and you can get it almost anywhere. I repainted on a weekend and checked it the next weekend and it was hard as a rock. I cleaned and sanded before applying.

Yep. Did this on the last boat and it looked great for cheap

 

[Mkeller]

Rustoleum is great. Add valspar enamel hardener to it for a faster drying and harder finish.

 

[klee wyck]

POR-15 for the hard hulled folks that want pretty durable protection.

 

[geoleo]

KILZ!!!! it is anti mold and wont stink

 

[swampu]

I used kilz, I had smoke damage and it did great, I used oil based paint.

 

[Scratchnsaw]

KILZ!!!! it is anti mold and wont stink

If you are talking about the oil based product, well painting it inside and in a limited air location is not recommended. And if you leave it uncoated with out a topcoat of any type, it will turn black in damp locations or high humidity areas with stagnant airflow..

 

[swampu]

I would recommend using common since when using anything around a Boat (I think on this forum there is an assumed common since threshold)
If it does anything but yellow a little you need to fix your airflow problem. Bilges don’t have to be moldy and musty. Take some time, fix the problem. Paint for me is for the location of oil drips

 

[Scratchnsaw]

Well Kilz is a flat shellac based paint. So its really not favorable for cleaning the surface of any soiled residue. And I have used hundreds of gallons to maybe a thousand over the years since mid to late 80s. The Bullseye Binzeed primer is the same product and we use both for priming almost everything including fairing compounds on epoxy. It makes a great base for filling and fairing. Then we go back with the dedicated primers for a selected high quality paint.