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Old 09-16-2015, 10:09 PM   #41
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I actually looked for a needle scaler at HF a few days ago. Didn't see one. Probably don't have enough air to run one anyway.
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Old 09-16-2015, 11:20 PM   #42
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How many cans of spray paint does it take to paint a six cylinder cummins?
Eventually, hopefully, you will tell us.
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Old 09-17-2015, 01:42 AM   #43
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Greetings,
Mr. HC. Either this: Inline Desiccant Dryer/Filter or this: 3/8 in. Compact Air Filter might dry you up.
Aside to Mr d2 (at least you're a wise-ass and not a dumb ass)

Parks, either of these would be great to use for your blaster or paint gun. I'm gonna post a couple of pictures of my marina spray gun rig "later today" and for this I just use the filter you screw in at the gun which works fine.
Generally on a compressor that's actually big enough to run a 6" DA sander commonly used it paint prep- you will find that the compressor tank needs to be drained prior to spraying paint. Extended sanding/ long cycle times with an 80 gallon compressor like at our shop seems to generate LOTS of water in the tank.


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Old 09-21-2015, 01:08 AM   #44
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DITTO
What r u thinking!!!!
The forum will accept no less than:

* Before pics (required now)
* Proper surface preparation
* Thoroughly cleaned
* Remove/tape over/ or wrap in aluminum foil (as was earlier mentioned) and blow off everything in prep for paint.
* Prime with your preferred liquid. I prefer Yellow Zinc Chromate I get from a local paint production facility we have a service contract with. As Phil/Fill always says- this is the most important part.
* OEM paint- the real stuff. Two quarts should be plenty with a great primer already applied. Once you check, industrial paint probably costs a lot less than having it mixed at Carquest. And it probably won't be a three part paint. Pour and spray. What could be simpler? And it was good enough when new, and it will be good enough for now .
* After pictures. Crucial to prove that the scope of the work was performed to the exacting standards of TF (screw ABYC)!

Now, some folks man not have access to a $1500 compressor/ $400 spray gun and a $500 air dryer in line to eliminate all air contaminates. So for these I propose:

* The little 3 gallon oil lube compressor. Just like the big boys use only in small $100 form.
Attachment 44630
Lose the cheezie spiral hose and pick up a 25' rubber hose ($25) and add quality matching quick connects on the end. Type S I think. It has a built in regulator. HVLP needs to be set about 20-25 psi.
* Order a $50 HVLP touch up gun from Carquest. My old cheap finish hut but the crapper a few months ago. New one in at lunch today. I'll post a pic.
* A gun filter the screws on the gun. I'll buy one and post a pic as well. $7

There. You're in the painting business! $187


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It's been busy around here- but I did set up a little paint rig to paint my transom shower insert inside my miniature spray booth. Here it be:
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Old 09-23-2015, 12:07 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by HopCar View Post
I
How many cans of spray paint does it take to paint a six cylinder cummins?

We use to call that a DuPont overhaul, done usually just before sending to a auction.


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Old 09-23-2015, 08:50 PM   #46
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Found a small needle scaler at Harbor Freight. I've never used one. Any thing I should know? If I'm going to do a DuPont rebuild, I should at least do it right.
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Old 09-23-2015, 08:55 PM   #47
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Tractor Supply sales those too....might be a lil cheaper
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Old 09-23-2015, 09:40 PM   #48
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You big spender you! My transom shower hanger was already here when I got home tonight BTW.

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ID:	44929The needle scaler is perfect for reaching the nooks and crannies an engine has that are almost impossible to get to any other way. The needles individually chip away at the rust and paint- the objective is to remove anything that might loosen later. So there can be some time savings thinking of it that way. All the old paint doesn't have to come off. I actually removed 4 or 5 needles from my scaler to allow it to fit into smaller areas.
Bigger areas are for a cup brush on a 4" side grinder- or the little die grinder brush I posted earlier.
Work clean. Any remaining oil or grease can contaminate areas around it. Clean your hands regularly and don't touch the areas that are complete.
I like contrast- so will usually tape off or remove some bolts and hardware that are readily seen and untape or reinstall after the painting is complete. Once you are happy with your prep thoroughly blow everything off, then you may want to use your spray gun with enamel thinner poured in the cup to "wash" the engine down. This also gives you a chance to see that your gun is shooting correctly.
Last advice:
Learn your spray gun. One knob determines what the maximum amount of paint it can throw. Test this on something and increase it till you are concerned you will cause a run. Once it's set- no need to adjust further. The top or side knob depending on model can be turned clockwise to produce a tight O. CCW spreads the fan. Rotating the air cap 90 degrees will give you a horizontal "fan". This adjustment can be adjusted as needed while spraying. The tight O is great for hard to access areas.
Two coats are sufficient. Three coats should make the job last longer.
First coat is a "tack coat"- it doesn't need to be 100% coverage.

I don't have an engine pick handy, but here is a Clark I reconditioned several years back that gives an example of the "contrast" I mentioned.



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Old 09-23-2015, 10:57 PM   #49
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Found a small needle scaler at Harbor Freight. I've never used one. Any thing I should know? If I'm going to do a DuPont rebuild, I should at least do it right.
They're pretty straightforward to use. I'm used to using bigger, more expensive ones, where I was always warned not to use too much pressure, so as not to break the needles. If it's a 30 dollar gun, who cares. The ones I'm used to are quite loud, so hearing protection is a good idea.

This might sound a bit weird, but I've found using needleguns to be quite satisfying, almost therapeutic in a way. Of course I'm used to doing big flat sections of bulkhead and decks, not the wee little nooks and crannies found in an engine block. Good luck!
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Old 09-24-2015, 12:19 AM   #50
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Thanks guys. If it will stop raining, I'll give it a try tomorrow.
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Old 09-24-2015, 07:09 AM   #51
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Parks, seem to remember these things are greedy for air. Hope your compressor has enough huff.
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Old 09-24-2015, 10:11 AM   #52
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Hi Mike,
I'm worried about that also. I don't remember what horsepower my compressor is but it has a big tank. If I can't run the scaler continuously, I'll just have to wait while the compressor recharges the tank. HF had two sizes of scalers so I bought the small one thinking it would use less air and get into smaller spaces. I keep saying "I" when I mean my guy Bill will do the actual work. I will play with the scaler so I can say I know how to use one.
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Old 09-25-2015, 10:32 AM   #53
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Parks- how's Bill this morning?? U gotta take care of him to get ur best job...


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Old 09-25-2015, 12:18 PM   #54
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I just handed him the needle scaler. He looked skeptical.
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Old 09-25-2015, 12:47 PM   #55
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Yea- but give him a little time. Maybe you should have started him with a tooth brush for a day??


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Old 10-05-2015, 11:19 PM   #56
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I broke down and bought a little sand blaster from Harbor Freight. Bill went at the engine with it today. It did a good job removing the rust and loose paint.i need to get him another bag of sand.
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Old 10-06-2015, 06:24 AM   #57
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That's one of the reasons I really like the work boat yard I'm in. Engine would be sandblasted in an hour and then primed that day. Top coats the following day. Probably cost $300 to $400 to sand blast and paint.

BTW, make sure all inlets and vents are plugged. Also, cover any identification plates with 2 layers of duct tape, unless you don't need the critical numbers for buying parts.

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Old 10-07-2015, 06:01 AM   #58
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I broke down and bought a little sand blaster from Harbor Freight. Bill went at the engine with it today. It did a good job removing the rust and loose paint.i need to get him another bag of sand.

Finally a picture!! That is one UGLY engine at this point- but paint cures all .


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Old 10-07-2015, 06:34 AM   #59
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That's one of the reasons I really like the work boat yard I'm in. Engine would be sandblasted in an hour and then primed that day. Top coats the following day. Probably cost $300 to $400 to sand blast and paint.

BTW, make sure all inlets and vents are plugged. Also, cover any identification plates with 2 layers of duct tape, unless you don't need the critical numbers for buying parts.

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I was off a little. Less complex motors like a DD 6-71 are about $400. A "B" Cummins are around $500 and the bigger Cats are $600+.

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Old 10-07-2015, 10:18 AM   #60
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I don't think I'll have quite $500 in the paint job but I'll end up with a sand blaster I didn't have before. My new heat exchanger and oil cooler arrived from Sen Dure.

I saw Bill down in the bilge yesterday when I got to the store, but I didn't get to talk to him. No idea what he was doing. I can just turn Bill loose on the boat and things get done.

My new instrument panels should arrive today or tomorrow.

Water got to my air conditioner so I've got to get a new one. I'm not going to spend the money on a real generator so the AC will need to start and run on my little Honda. I'm looking at the 5K BTU Mermaid. They advertise that you can run it on a 1000 watt Honda.

Might as well get a new refrigerator too. The old one is probably twenty years old.
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