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Old 01-07-2018, 06:02 PM   #1
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Pilot House Window Weather Seals

My Nordic Tug needs to have the exterior window seals replaced.
Can anyone share the best way to do this?
Pictures Attached. Appreciate the advice.
Attachment 71899
Attachment 71900
Attachment 71901[/QUOTE]
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Old 01-08-2018, 07:20 PM   #2
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Pick up the phone and call Diamond Sea Glaze in British Columbia and ask them. They are the manufacturer of your windows. Replacing the interior rubber seals may require removal of the window to enable the seal to be properly fitted.
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Old 01-09-2018, 07:09 PM   #3
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Pick up the phone and call Diamond Sea Glaze in British Columbia and ask them. They are the manufacturer of your windows. Replacing the interior rubber seals may require removal of the window to enable the seal to be properly fitted.


Thanks
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Old 01-09-2018, 08:13 PM   #4
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Pgitug,

Why is it you need to replace the window seals? Do they leak? My tug has the same windows, I have noticed the seals are starting to pull inwards at the corners on a few windows. I was going to attempt to reseat the seals with a non marring tool on a warm day(we won't see one anytime soon)and see how they hold. The next step is a call to Diamond Sea Glaze. They look similar to the same seal used on the back window of pick up trucks from the 50's to even some current applications. Typically not hard to replace, just requires patience. Would love to hear what Sea Glaze has to say.

Cheers

Mike
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Old 01-10-2018, 02:38 AM   #5
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Pilot House Window Weather Seals

When traveling in waves that put sheets of water over the bow and onto the windows there was wetting beginning to take place on the teak at the lower edge of the window frame on the inside of our 37í. Iím beginning to believe it is the seal between the frame and the boat. Not the rubber seal around the window.
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Old 01-10-2018, 04:49 AM   #6
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When traveling in waves that put sheets of water over the bow and onto the windows there was wetting beginning to take place on the teak at the lower edge of the window frame on the inside of our 37í. Iím beginning to believe it is the seal between the frame and the boat. Not the rubber seal around the window.
Man, I was experimenting with many sealing variations around windows since I have three or four types of windows on the boat. With framed windows the most reliable and long term sealing of the frame to the boat has shown to be using the butyl tape, not always nice looking, although it can be done if you are ready to invest time, but if you are keeping the boat it is fit and forget solution! For the window glass itself, there are many solutions, again depending if it is glass or plexiglass, but almost all will work, some will work for longer period, some for shorter. If plexiglass then it is important to use primers if polyurethane seal is used. If using rubber seals, it is good idea to also use silicon on the junctions and gaps to completely seal everything. Quality of rubber seals is important! Silicon sticks to glass and plexiglass equally, but it is not glue as polyurethane and silicon will resist many things and last long. Polyurethane is nice to work with, but expect that it will have to be redone in some time since it will lose its elasticity in time (it is hardening from the moisture in time). If rubber seals are not of good quality, than you can prolong there life a bit by coating it with glycerin periodically. Best to do it right the first time because it costs both the money and time, in this case maybe more time than money and as we know, time cannot be returned.

Sorry that I throw it at you without order, but tried to say as much as I can in as shorter as possible.
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Old 01-10-2018, 09:49 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pgitug View Post
When traveling in waves that put sheets of water over the bow and onto the windows there was wetting beginning to take place on the teak at the lower edge of the window frame on the inside of our 37’. I’m beginning to believe it is the seal between the frame and the boat. Not the rubber seal around the window.
The other day I almost started to ask where is the water entering, around the rubber seals or around the frame/house joint.

If the house/frame joint then on the inside frame there will/should be a bunch of screws. Those screws , when tightened, pull the two frame parts together clamping the boat house between them. There should be a gasket or caulk between the house and the outer frame.

Remove the screws supporting the frame so it doesn't fall. You likely will need to cut and carefully pry the outer frame from the house.

Sharp knives, small prybars, thin wood pieces [wedges,shingles} to push into the gap as it comes free and hold the gap open slightly, glass suction cups to hold the frame/glass. I used small pry bars but think the wood would be better once the gap has been started. When they fall they won't ding the deck. Tape them into place as you go.

A Fein tool or one its competitors with a blade will help cut the caulk if it fights you. I used mine on a similar but different portlight and it was a great tool. Just be carefull to not angle it in or it may cut the house wall. I used one of the straight, plunging, blades but realized the 1/2 circle one may have been better. I would also try the scraper blade but that will be next time.

I would tape one of the thin kitchen plastic cutting mats to the area for the tool to ride on or it may scratch the house wall. They are cheap and tough. I tried.
Tape will not likely stand up

Once out then clean the caulk or old gasket off. An old but sharp chisel works very well along with one of the mini SS wire brushes. A scraper , push and pull types may also help.

Then use butyl rubber tape. Compass Marine sells good stuff. It won't let go the way typical caulks eventually do. The excess tape will need to trimmed afterwards but it will seal dead reliably.
The outer frame likely has a recess which some of the tape will embed itself into to form something like an O ring with some thickness to take up movement without letting go.

I will also 3rd or whatever the suggestion to contact Diamond Seaglaze. They were the makers of your windows for many years, may still be supplying.
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Old 01-10-2018, 10:07 PM   #8
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Second endorsement to Compass Marine and their"Bed-It" butyl tape. Also available from Hamilton Marine. About $19 a roll and is worth every cent. Unlike the black automotive tape, this stuff doesn't make a mess during install.
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Old 01-11-2018, 05:30 AM   #9
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One big advantage to the compass tape bedding is it comes apart/off easily when re bedding is required.

Bedding is never (on a boat) forever , it should be on the PM ( preventive maint) list even if it only needs doing every decade.
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