Painting over varnished teak

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Hawkeye

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 15, 2016
Messages
82
Location
USA
Vessel Name
Happy Clown
Vessel Make
Heritage 45 Europa
I have finally come to the point that annual varnish of the boat's considerable teak needs to stop. I have heavily sanded the carved teak wing doors (yes, its a Taiwan Tub) in preparation for prime coat(s) and then a top coat of marine grade enamel. Anyone have any advice? I will wipe down with thinner. What are the characteristics I should look for in the primer? I want my top coat to stick! Can you recommend a brand primer? one or two coats? Then for the top coat, can someone recommend a color that is easier on the eyes that gloss white? While the boat is nominally white, I'm pretty sure that it is a couple of shades off pure white.
 
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I'm under the impression that teak decks can be oiled (or replaced) rather than varnished. (Glad I've opted out of having teak decks.)
 
I am painting my teak area by area. We painted our teak handrails last year. We took it down to bare wood. Started by wiping with acetone just before priming with interlux PreKote for 2 coats. Then used Interlux brightside poly paint for 3 coats. So far they look great. Love the look over the varnished teak. It really makes the boat look more modern.
 
Just in case you change your mind or the next owner has other ideas try this. Coat the doors with varnish to seal the wood not for looks. Then cover with white or cream colored paint. If you paint directly on the teak you will never get the paint out of the pores of the teak. You can never go back to bright. Out of the sun the varnish will last indefinitely and can be repainted numerous times.



If you or some new owner decides to go back to bright you can strip the paint layers off and sand the varnish and start all over again.
 
Just in case you change your mind or the next owner has other ideas try this. Coat the doors with varnish to seal the wood not for looks. Then cover with white or cream colored paint. If you paint directly on the teak you will never get the paint out of the pores of the teak. You can never go back to bright. Out of the sun the varnish will last indefinitely and can be repainted numerous times.



If you or some new owner decides to go back to bright you can strip the paint layers off and sand the varnish and start all over again.



:thumb::thumb::thumb:
 
I have never decided what I want to do on my boat based on what some future owner may or may not want. It is my boat, I do what I want with it. As to selling it someday, maybe, probably but every boat I have sold has sold to the first person that looked at it. And they all loved the condition of the boat, not telling me that I should not have done something. If the boat is in really good condition it will sell whether the teak is varnished or painted.
 
Comodave,

Understood, but I'm with C lectric on this one. Not because one would be unable to sell the boat otherwise. And, not because one would be able to sell the boat for more otherwise.

I do it for the same reason I answer questions any time the new owner of my last boat calls -- I want them to be as happy as possible, enjoy it as much as possible, and waste as little time and effort maintaining it as possible. I don't want them to spend time learning what I know. The past owner, and even two owners before that, of my present vessel have been enormously generous about that to me, too. So, does it take time and energy to answer phones calls or email, look up old records, stare at a wall and try to call back to mind what I once knew? Etc? You betcha. But, does it make the world as a whole a happier place? I think so.

I think of doing little things to document and preserve the boat for future owners in the same way. It is something that costs me that might make someone happy down the line. They might want the teak back (I would). They might sand it down in excited anticipation -- and discover that it was painted because it rotted, was filled, and isn't good anymore. That is a sad day. They might also sand it down and discover it is good wood, but has paint embedded in the grain and would need to be sanded too much to be restored. That is also a sad day. The first case isn't fixable. The second is.

A quick coat of varnish isn't expensive. It doesn't take much time. It may improve paint adhesion, depending. And, it can make someone really in the future happy. So, I'd do it -- then smile if they ever called me and asked.

And, heck, I'd be the first one sanding paint off rails. Just isn't my style. I know others have different taste. I've seen some nice rails painted. It is just one of those things where preferences differ -- so owners wanting to change wouldn't surprise me.

At any rate, I see where you are coming from. Makes sense to me. It is just that this "current caretaker" has a different point of view.
 
I get calls from my previous boat owners regularly and I am also happy to help them. Just like I said I do what I want to with my boats,so you should do what you want with yours.
 
Even though the (large amount of) varnished teak on my boat is in great shape, I am about to start doing what Comodave is doing - painting section by section. Partly to reduce maintenance and partly to update the look of the boat.

I like Brightsides and have used it a lot. Using Brightsides I believe you can paint over the varnish (if it’s in good enough shape). For now at least I am planning on using a 2 part and with that you can’t paint over a one part paint so stripping is required.

Whatever you use, follow the instructions for that paint.

Ken
 
I have finally come to the point that annual varnish of the boat's considerable teak needs to stop. I have heavily sanded the carved teak wing doors (yes, its a Taiwan Tub) in preparation for prime coat(s) and then a top coat of marine grade enamel. Anyone have any advice? I will wipe down with thinner. What are the characteristics I should look for in the primer? I want my top coat to stick! Can you recommend a brand primer? one or two coats? Then for the top coat, can someone recommend a color that is easier on the eyes that gloss white? While the boat is nominally white, I'm pretty sure that it is a couple of shades off pure white.

First off, I need to say that's a sexy boat you got.
Second off, make it so that us kids can strip off the paint and go back to varnished teak when its our turn to care for the boat.
 
Coat the doors with varnish to seal the wood not for looks. Then cover with white or cream colored paint. If you paint directly on the teak you will never get the paint out of the pores of the teak. You can never go back to bright. Out of the sun the varnish will last indefinitely and can be repainted numerous times.

This is very good advice!!
 
I prime teak with Smith's Penetrating epoxy prior to painting. It makes a good bond with teak.

I used Brightside paint in the past but now use System Three two part water based LP paint.
 
For those who have used Brightside on exterior wood, how did it hold up? How often did it need to be redone,etc.

Ken
 
For those who have used Brightside on exterior wood, how did it hold up? How often did it need to be redone,etc.

Ken

About 3 years in Florida sun but it is easy to touch up or recoat. You don’t have to strip all the old paint or take it down to bare wood like you do with varnish to refinish. It doesn’t look like a two part/yacht but from 5 feet away it looks pretty good.
 
Since my boat is in Michigan and stored inside for half of the year according to Interlux I should get around 6 years. Then a scuff sand and recoat.
 
I am painting my teak area by area. We painted our teak handrails last year. We took it down to bare wood. Started by wiping with acetone just before priming with interlux PreKote for 2 coats. Then used Interlux brightside poly paint for 3 coats. So far they look great. Love the look over the varnished teak. It really makes the boat look more modern.

We did that in 2016. Preparation as above. Used Awlgrip. First year looked great, second year too, but then from year 2 to 3, started seeing blisters. Now, 4 years later have some big blisters.

Have since read that it is simply impossible to paint teak as it has too much oil in it and will get out sooner or later.
 
Here in the PNW on a boathouse kept boat, the Brightside lasts a long time but loses shine at around 5 to 6 years.

The System Three water based LP hasn't been on long enough to evaluate.
 
I used bright side white over an oil based primer on a walnut post I made for my mailbox here at the dirt house. Northern Wisconsin. Covered with snow, lots of rain, direct sun. hit with shrapnel from the lawnmower, hit with salty, sandy sludge from the snowplow.

It lasted great for 4 or 5 years and is starting to peel now after about 7 years.

I am satisfied, I will use it over the varnish on the teak this spring with a little sanding to rough it up a bit.

pete
 
It sounds like Brightside still holds up at least twice as long as varnish and of course only a couple of coats required. I was going to start painting some exterior items using 2 part, but that requires bare wood or only 2 part or 2 part primer underneath. If I use Brightsides, I can go directly over sound varnish. I'll probably try it on the dinghy cradle first.

Thanks for the input.

Ken
 
If we had that much exterior teak I would also be tempted to paint - agree it may make the boat look more modern. But the only exterior teak we have are our handrails. Under the covered sundeck we have teak floor, teak wet bar, teak wing doors and teak cabin door. I have sanded and varnished all of that (except floor) with Pettit Flagship and it looks great - have to confess I do love the look of shiny varnished teak.
 
If we had that much exterior teak I would also be tempted to paint - agree it may make the boat look more modern. But the only exterior teak we have are our handrails. Under the covered sundeck we have teak floor, teak wet bar, teak wing doors and teak cabin door. I have sanded and varnished all of that (except floor) with Pettit Flagship and it looks great - have to confess I do love the look of shiny varnished teak.

I very much do like the look of the varnished teak, but I have so much exterior teak that it has become just too much to take care of to the level I want. I will still keep the handrails, caprails and flybridge rails and trim varnished, but I think its time to reduce and modernize the look a bit.

Ken
 
If we only had a little of it we would leave it varnished but we have too much. Once we started painting it we found that we love the look of the ppainted much more than the varnish.
 
I have never decided what I want to do on my boat based on what some future owner may or may not want. It is my boat, I do what I want with it. As to selling it someday, maybe, probably but every boat I have sold has sold to the first person that looked at it. And they all loved the condition of the boat, not telling me that I should not have done something. If the boat is in really good condition it will sell whether the teak is varnished or painted.

Prepping with a sealing coat or two of varnish is a good idea and not just because it may be easier to go back to bright. It is highly unlikely that a new buyer would want to go backwards except in maybe small areas. Anyway, roughing up the varnished surface will be fine for readying the surface for paint, probably without further priming. I had a friend who did this on the underside of his teak rails which were oddly shaped with crescent crown and flat from side to side on the bottom. He didn't mind caring for the tops of his rails, but the flat undersides were of no interest to him. He said a lot of people he knew who went a'cruisin' painted over all the varnished teak before departure and later after the cruising would revert to bright.

The teak trim was an eye-catching feature of the GB42 back in the day when I bought it, and there was no way I was going to let its market value sag by changing that look. Had I suspected a future buyer would not object, I still would not have painted over it because I liked the look, regardless of the labor.

I have to say that after decades of keeping every bit of the exterior teak of the GB42 in excellent shape, I am a happy camper with ZERO exterior wood.
 
I have Pettit Grand Banks beige (Looks gray though) on my 84 Albin 27. The Previous owner did a fabulous job of it removing it around all the window frames and doing each piece and then putting new s/s screws in. To me it modernizes the Look of the boat boat and we just put Another coat on about every two years.
 
I'm having my 1970 Willard 36 painted in AlexSeal. I hate exterior wood, especially in tropics. Was surprisingly affordable to have the caprails encapsulated in fiberglass and painted a contrasting color - somewhere around $1700 (Mexico) for caprails around flybridge and hull.

Pics from last week - she gets painted in a few weeks.


Caprail Pics.jpg
 
This was the old trick done on yachts kept in the tropics were used little . The captains would paint over the varnish out of season and then sand off and redcoat the varnish for the short season of usage. I’ll be doing it perminitly the Same way on my boat I hate the look of teak and the maintainance!
 
I'm having my 1970 Willard 36 painted in AlexSeal. I hate exterior wood, especially in tropics. Was surprisingly affordable to have the caprails encapsulated in fiberglass and painted a contrasting color - somewhere around $1700 (Mexico) for caprails around flybridge and hull.

Pics from last week - she gets painted in a few weeks.


View attachment 98639
What's the point to encapsulate the rails in fiberglass?

L
 
Be careful of using epoxy primer without a good UV protection paint. Epoxy primers I have used need serious UV protection paint. Epoxy primer can cause the paint to fail due to UV exposure. Good news is, they have great UV protection paints. Even clears can have good UV protection.
 
What's the point to encapsulate the rails in fiberglass?

L
Caprails have 4 layers of glass that have been feathered into the hull, then several coats of high build primer, then AlexSeal (alternative to Awl Grip) - just like a proper hull repaint. Maintenance is identical to a painted hull. No more recaulking of caprail to hull joint, no more possibility of leaking hull-deck joints. And no more varnish. Once my refit is complete in Ensenada, we will slowly make our way to Florida, so Weebles will spend much of her future in the tropics where a professionally painted surface is by far the best defense against the elements.

My delivery career (mid 90s - mid 2000s) coincided with the end of the N46 production run, of which I delivered several from Dana Point to PNW. The last handful of N46s built had encapsulated caprails. Not only were there practical advantages listed above, but I thought it looked really sharp. I have lusted for them ever since.
 
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