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Old 06-03-2012, 12:55 PM   #61
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City: Pacific Northwest
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koliver,

That's encouraging as we are in the same climate zone. I will experiment with your technique as I have some Epifanes varnished handrails with spots of missing varnish.

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Old 07-12-2012, 07:44 AM   #62
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Back to this one ...

I've stripped the varnish off most of the rails and cap. I didn't want to work upside down so I removed the rails to get at the undersides. The varnish there was, no surprise, in almost perfect condition.

1) Underneath the stanchions was some bedding goop, reddish brown in color and still flexible, not hard and brittle, for the most part. What is that and what should I be using when I reinstall the stanchions?

2) My teak is now multicolored. Some bleached out to a very light color. Some a nice rich, brown color. Some black spots of rot? fungus? dirt? Oh, and yes, a few scorched spots where I got carried away with the heat gun. What should I be doing to get a more uniform color before refinishing?

For refinishing I'm currently leaning towards Cetol, a few coats of natural followed by clear.

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Old 10-02-2012, 12:51 PM   #63
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Hi Guys, I am a professional boat painter and I use a good epoxy resin watered down with denatured alcohol on the first coat. Teak being an oily wood you'll have to penitrate the surface to get the next set of coats to grab on and stick. 2-3 coats of epoxy and then primer and top coat. Its a process but will last for many yrs with minimal maintainance. Now on the flip side pity the poor bast____ that wants to go back to varnish. It can be done, but lots of heat gun and sanding. We've actually used the epoxy method under varnish also and have had extreme longevity from the varnish peeling and have to sand and apply new coats of varnish every couple yrs. The varnish will darken with time though. Overall this method works very well and eliminates lots of maintainance. HB
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