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Old 07-04-2016, 10:31 AM   #1
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Painting molded Non-skid surfaces

I have a question for the TF brain trust. The molded non-skid surface on my fly bridge has been painted but the paint is starting to peel and needs to be redone. How do you prep the surface? pressure wash, scotch bright pads. what about which paint to use? TIA
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Old 07-04-2016, 12:42 PM   #2
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One can sand the tops of the "bumps" but not the "valleys".
Is it a problem or not?
That's what I've always wondered. But I suspect that if one washes all the oily-like contamants from the valleys and basically clean throughly a coating of good paint applied propperly will be fine. Adhesion should be good on the high spots and those being so close together help hold the coating on. And the low spots are significantly protected by the high spots "bumps" that basically all things go well if good cleaning is done.
But that can be a problem as it's anyone's guess what contaminants are on the surface. Solvent, alcohol, soap or what to use? To make things look pretty people put all kinds of undesirable stuff on painted surfaces. Time cures all of course but the present is the issue. One would need to do the cleaning w something that will not harm the existing paint or otherwise coating ... and remove all the wax, oil, ArmorAll or whatever.

This washing/cleaning is the big question. What to use.
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Old 07-04-2016, 12:45 PM   #3
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a longer wire, softer wire brush will get down into the valleys.


it will scratch the surface as sandpaper as long as the speed is slow enough not to burnish.


the prep as normal.
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Old 07-04-2016, 01:31 PM   #4
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I've seen ZEP brand cleaners recommend by a few paint systems as good for clean and prep.
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Old 07-04-2016, 02:03 PM   #5
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Mold release wax is very tenacious. All the Marine Paint manufacturers recommend a solvent wash several times using clean rags. A solvent wash along with brushing and wiping will help a lot.
Even a 20 year old boat still has mold release wax on some of the surfaces, it's why your boat didn't stick to the mold, it's also why paint may not either.

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Old 07-04-2016, 02:22 PM   #6
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The 100% guaranteed to result in good outcome way to do it is grind all the non skid off flat. Prime, apply new non skid and paint. If you intend to keep your old non skid use paint remover and scrub the remover with a wire brush to get the paint out of the lows of the non skid. Depending on how much of the old paint you get off would determine how well new paint will stick. I'd then scotch brite the heck out of it, then sand with about 180 grit.
What paint to use? You could use any marine paint. An LP like Awlgrip would be the most durable. It's also the most expensive.
Thinking that if you get the paint to stick on the high spots it will support lack of adhesion in the low spots. It doesn't work that way.
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Old 07-05-2016, 07:18 AM   #7
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"use paint remover"

Many paint removers contain Bromethalene chloride (SP?).

This dissolves both polly and epoxy resin., slowly.
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Old 07-05-2016, 07:46 AM   #8
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It's really not that complicated.

A couple of good scrubbings with a stiff brush and Comet or other abrasive cleaner will usually do the job. Then wipe the surface down with the proper solvent for the paint you're going to use just before painting.

As to which paint, for the best longevity and wear resistance it's pretty hard to beat a good two part poly.
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Old 07-05-2016, 09:20 AM   #9
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Be prepared for the painted non skid to no longer be very non skid. We have two cabin tops we painted and never had an adhesion issue but the surface is slippery now.
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Old 07-05-2016, 09:38 AM   #10
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We're in the process of tackling the same thing...but whole damned boat.
The PO had painted the boat and apparently didn't prep very well, if at all. Just hitting it with a water hose has the paint all peeling off. I scraped the whole interior of the cockpit walls with a razor blade and it just came off in sheets.

Our plan is do the best we can with cleaning the molded non skid areas (which is like 90% of all of the deck areas) and sand it down a bit and paint. We're still trying to decide which paint to use but I think we're going to give Kiwigrip a try with a not too aggressive finish.
In most areas where I've scraped off this paint, the original gelcoat underneath is shiny and smooth as a baby's butt.
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Old 07-05-2016, 10:05 AM   #11
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My charter boat is old (1975) and the molded non skid had been painted several times leaving it ineffective. We sanded it down to smooth glass, applied two coats of gelcoat, and then painted non skid over it. Whole process went quicker than you might think, and turned out very well.

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Old 07-05-2016, 10:34 AM   #12
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Thanks everyone, there's some good suggestions so far. probably have a couple of more questions about best way to paint the surface after its prepped...
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Old 07-05-2016, 10:52 AM   #13
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My molded non-skid is painted with Interlux Interdeck.


Not slippery at all and the thicker paint tends to fill and hide the crazing cracks. But bet it would be with any no non-skid paint.
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Old 07-05-2016, 01:04 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psneeld View Post
My molded non-skid is painted with Interlux Interdeck.


Not slippery at all and the thicker paint tends to fill and hide the crazing cracks. But bet it would be with any no non-skid paint.

I'm wondering why they only seem to sell that in quarts and not gallons.
I've got a LOT of molded non skid I have to paint. Buying in quarts seems silly.
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Old 07-05-2016, 03:09 PM   #15
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True but unlike most non-skid this goes on thin and covers more.
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Old 07-05-2016, 03:41 PM   #16
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Our boat has the raised diamond pattern non-skid. I spoke with a number of paint suppliers and concluded that sprayed on gel coat would be the best solution, as they all told me paint would tend to pool in the low spots more easily. I don't care if the finish is dull as the facets break up the light anyway. So far I've purchased some brass bristle bar-b-que grill brushes off Amazon. Looking around for a throw away spray gun that has the large diameter nozzle required to spray slightly thinned gel coat. Looks like Evercoat makes the spray on gel coat I'm needing.
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Old 07-05-2016, 04:00 PM   #17
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If using a thin non-skid like Interdeck...it doesn't pool any more than if it would sag on a vertical surface if applied properly.


Many of these non-skid paints such as Interdeck (versus specifically designed non-skid one coat layers such as Kiwi Grip) are best put on in thin layers if more than one is needed.
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Old 07-05-2016, 04:12 PM   #18
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We refinished our raised non-skid fore decks in 2012 using a 2 part polyurethane. We prepped using epoxy to fill holes and nicks. Then taped off and sanded using a standard random orbital sander till they were smooth, then rolled on an epoxy primer and sanded again. We then rolled on the AwlGrip, one coat and sprinkled on the non-skid. Then went back and rolled on one more coat. The hardest part was practicing to get the non-skid granules (Griptex) down evenly. We used a varnish roller to apply the primer and paint.
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Old 07-05-2016, 07:18 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M View Post
We refinished our raised non-skid fore decks in 2012 using a 2 part polyurethane. We prepped using epoxy to fill holes and nicks. Then taped off and sanded using a standard random orbital sander till they were smooth, then rolled on an epoxy primer and sanded again. We then rolled on the AwlGrip, one coat and sprinkled on the non-skid. Then went back and rolled on one more coat. The hardest part was practicing to get the non-skid granules (Griptex) down evenly. We used a varnish roller to apply the primer and paint.
Nice.
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Old 07-05-2016, 09:20 PM   #20
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When I was looking for a clearcoat to apply to my hull, I was asking around at an automotive paint supplier, and came across a cleaner to wipe on first, called "Tumbler". It is supposed to lift all foreign chemicals, things like silicone based wax, Armoral, grease, etc. I never did the project, so don't have any results to post.
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