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Old 06-05-2014, 08:58 AM   #41
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I was talking to a paint supplier in Seattle a few years ago and he was talking about AwlGrip and the recent failures they had. One of them was on a super yacht and there was a million dollar law suit against AwlGrip over that fiasco.

I know that was hearsay and I never read anything about it, but the supplier was the one who sold the paint.

Sterling never changed their formula. I see boats painted with both and within four to five years you can see major differences between the reformulated AwlGrip and Sterling finishes.

This is why my friend used Alexseal instead of AwlGrip. Sterling is almost impossible to get here now.
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Old 06-05-2014, 10:18 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M View Post
Here's what AwlGrip says about the differences between AwlCraft 2000 and AwlGrip Topcoat:

Topcoats

The Awlgrip Premium Urethane Topcoat is a polyester based polyurethane coating which can be applied by spray, brush, roller or the roller/brush combination. Awlgrip provides excellent chemical and abrasion resistance, along with outstanding color retention.

Awlcraft 2000 is an acrylic based polyurethane coating designed only for spray application. It is designed for the yard, applicator or owner who is willing to sacrifice a little durability to have a faster curing, more easily repaired finish.
Perhaps, but I just haven't noticed Awlgrip not drying fast enough. I lay on multiple coats about 5 to 10 minutes apart but I guess it isn't dry until the next day. I also can't really tell the difference in time to repair, although I don't have much experience with Awlcraft in that regard. It's the "less durable" part that worries me, but I have no clue how to calibrate that.
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Old 06-22-2014, 12:02 PM   #43
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I roll and tip awlcraft 2000 and yes it can dry quick but i use that to my advantage it works really well. prep is the key plus use crater x and i use foam rollers and a good quality brush
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Old 06-22-2014, 12:30 PM   #44
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Greetings,
We are in the throes of a repaint with Alexseal. As I key, a third coat of primer is going on sanding between coats. We thought 2 coats of primer would suffice but we could see ghosting of the dark fairing compound after the 2 coats. So a third coat it is. As mentioned, prep is THE key. Used 1 gallon (2X .5 gallons) of Alexseal fairing compound. Plan to finish with 2 topcoats. Nice job Mr. sm.
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Old 06-22-2014, 02:10 PM   #45
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RTF, just curious what made you decide on Alexseal?

Re your problem with the fairing compound showing through, I have previously repaired spots on my boat where a light sanding/polishing has broken through the paint exposing the fairng compound & epoxy. Why can't the epoxy & fairing be tinted with a bit of white colorant? I have noted on a few brands that colourant (I wish these pesky spell checkers would quit highlighting colour as a spelling error) can be added but nobody seems to do it. Anyone know of a reason?
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Old 06-22-2014, 03:31 PM   #46
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It has been a long time since I did any painting but polyurethanes scared me. They contain isocyanates and extreme care must be taken to avoid breathing fumes or skin contact. Forced air respirators are a must.

Organic solvents can cause "painters dementia"
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Old 06-22-2014, 03:43 PM   #47
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Greetings,
Mr. KC. Due to the "problems" associated with AwlGrip we made the decision to go with Alexseal and used the Alexseal fairing compound to minimize/eliminate any non compatibility issues. If you're using a PC you can add the word colour to the spell check dictionary.
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Old 06-22-2014, 04:35 PM   #48
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It has been a long time since I did any painting but polyurethanes scared me. They contain isocyanates and extreme care must be taken to avoid breathing fumes or skin contact. Forced air respirators are a must.

Organic solvents can cause "painters dementia"
Having painted a speed boat with IMRON and 3 clear coats with glass flakes when I was 23 years old in a both with no respirator I lost 3 days of my life. I don't remember driving home and my wife said my underwear was the colour of the boat. I had a tremendous headache as I came out of the fog almost 2 and a half days later she said I never moved off the sofa. At 58 I wonder how many years I took off my life? Under no circumstances would I mess with these type of paints. I now leave that to the pro's. I kinda wonder if I'll get Dementia when I get older? I show no signs of it now. It's really nothing to mess with. This post isn't meant to be funny.
By the way the boat looks great I'd say it looks excellent.
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Old 06-24-2014, 08:12 AM   #49
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Indeed Bill, there is a lot of information on the web about the dangers of these coatings. I was very good with lacquer on cars but quit one I learned about the dangers of exotic coatings. The label on Awlgrip says for professional use only and that is probably not just to satisfy the EPA.
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Old 06-24-2014, 08:20 AM   #50
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Greetings,
We do have professional painters applying the coatings and being in proximity of the application, I can appreciate the odoriferous emanations.
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Old 06-24-2014, 08:23 AM   #51
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I did this back in the mid 1970's before the dangers were addressed. I admit to knowing it was an amateur move one I'll never do again. I'm still quite high functioning but I really wonder if at some point in my life this event will come back to haunt me. I was totally out of it for at least 2 and a half days. I'm pretty sure if I would have gotten pulled over I would have ended up locked up for DUI or in the hospital. Young dumb and stupid but the boat looked awesome...
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Old 06-24-2014, 10:41 AM   #52
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It is a wonder we survived. Or did we???????
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Old 01-18-2015, 11:05 AM   #53
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I just finished repainting my Cal 39's topsides with Awlgrip. Yes, it had to dry overnight between coats, but in the grand scheme of things, sanding and prepping the mother took way more time than the wait time between the two coats of Awlgrip. I spent 8 days sanding, filling, sanding, washing, priming, sanding, washing, priming, sanding and washing. Whew! The application of Awlgrip was actually fun! Quick, easy, and immediately gratifying!

With no painting experience to speak of, I just rolled it on with West System foam rollers and didn't tip. The paint flattened itself right out for a mirror finish. Amazing stuff! Total cost including haul-out and supplies with myself and a couple friends supplying the labor: just under $1000.

A couple months after application I had a pretty good smack on the dock. It was basically a Capt'n Ron style approach gone wrong, haha. Anyway, it was a good sideswipe along the hard rubber lining on the dock and waddya know: not a scratch! That Awlgrip is hard!

Here is a step-by-step guide complete with products used, price breakdown, and plenty of photos:

Top Paint | 1978 Cal 39 MkII Sailboat

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Old 01-20-2015, 11:59 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beebopbogo View Post
I just finished repainting my Cal 39's topsides with Awlgrip. Yes, it had to dry overnight between coats, but in the grand scheme of things, sanding and prepping the mother took way more time than the wait time between the two coats of Awlgrip. I spent 8 days sanding, filling, sanding, washing, priming, sanding, washing, priming, sanding and washing. Whew! The application of Awlgrip was actually fun! Quick, easy, and immediately gratifying!

With no painting experience to speak of, I just rolled it on with West System foam rollers and didn't tip. The paint flattened itself right out for a mirror finish. Amazing stuff! Total cost including haul-out and supplies with myself and a couple friends supplying the labor: just under $1000.

A couple months after application I had a pretty good smack on the dock. It was basically a Capt'n Ron style approach gone wrong, haha. Anyway, it was a good sideswipe along the hard rubber lining on the dock and waddya know: not a scratch! That Awlgrip is hard!

Here is a step-by-step guide complete with products used, price breakdown, and plenty of photos:

Top Paint | 1978 Cal 39 MkII Sailboat


Simply put- brilliant!

I like seeing DIY jobs come off so well!
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Old 01-20-2015, 12:25 PM   #55
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Beautiful job!!!!!!
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Old 01-20-2015, 01:30 PM   #56
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Nice work, great shine!!
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Old 01-21-2015, 08:09 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beebopbogo View Post
Here is a step-by-step guide complete with products used, price breakdown, and plenty of photos:

Top Paint | 1978 Cal 39 MkII Sailboat

Wow. Just wow. I am going to be surveying YouTube out the wazoo for procedure. I've done minor jobs but am a meticulous learner (some say paranoid) but hope to paint my pilothouse and bridge in the near future. Your job looks fantastic. Thank you for sharing and your pictures.
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Old 01-25-2015, 03:25 PM   #58
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these are LPU coatings - linear polyurethene. Just like 2 part auto paints. Two flavors - acyrlic polyurethane and polyester polyurethane. Sell for about $100 - $200 a gallon in industrial non marine settings.

a cheap way to go is to use a regular enamel as the pigment coat and then a clear 2 part lpu topcoat. Make sure the 2 part clear has lots of uv blockers (like found in 2 part lpu auto clear coat) - not avaiable (as far as I know) in any 'marine' lpu .

The week link with lpu coatings is their adhesion. they need a primer - generally a thinned epoxy but other 'fresh' solvent based coatings seem to work too.

google LPU coatings or PLU polyurethane etc. to learn more about this class of crosslinking coatings.
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Old 01-27-2015, 11:28 PM   #59
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Marin:

"But so far we can sand and paint and varnish and wash and polish to our heart's content."

In Edmonds in your own slip, you can only tackle an exterior area of 25% of the boat per year, tarps must cover all open water areas in order to collect dust, no open sanding, electric sanders must be equipped with vacuum equipment and hep filters.

Coming your way Marin.
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