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Old 10-02-2012, 08:54 PM   #21
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We'll finish today or tomorrow painting the hull with Awlgrip Awlcraft 2000. For the reasons you mentioned, it is probably why most painters I talked to are using it vs regular Awlgrip. Drying time is very fast. Two plus coats were sprayed on in less than 3 hours. Because of the fast drying time rolling and tipping is not recommended. It's not as hard regular Awlgrip but it is relatively easy to touch up and can be buffed. It is an acrylic urethane vs Alwgrip Topcoat which is a linear aliphatic polyester polyurethane. As with any painting project, it all seems to be in the prep.
Larry, I had some touch up done on Delfin as a result of another boat hitting me. The painter insisted on using Awlcraft for the reasons stated, and it turned out ok, if not perfect. That said, I have been practising patching Awlgrip, and I don't really find it that tough. I use a airbrush after sanding flat, and can put a couple of coats on within a hour or two. Then 2000 wet and dry, then 3 stages of rubbing compound. Probably because I am only dealing with light colors (gray and white), I really can't see the repair after I'm finished.
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Old 10-03-2012, 05:58 AM   #22
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He and his wife are spraying his boat in the slip

Some folks fear the over spray could do thousands of damage to nearby boats and canvass.

With a noisemaker for power one could tow the camel ( working float) to a deserted creek and spray away.
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Old 10-03-2012, 06:44 AM   #23
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Larry, I had some touch up done on Delfin as a result of another boat hitting me. The painter insisted on using Awlcraft for the reasons stated, and it turned out ok, if not perfect. That said, I have been practising patching Awlgrip, and I don't really find it that tough. I use a airbrush after sanding flat, and can put a couple of coats on within a hour or two. Then 2000 wet and dry, then 3 stages of rubbing compound. Probably because I am only dealing with light colors (gray and white), I really can't see the repair after I'm finished.
Carl: That's good to hear. My understanding is that Hatteras Yachts, who paint most of their new builds, no longer us Awlgrip and are now using Awlcraft. This is our first experience with the paint so it's nice to get positive feed back.
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Old 10-03-2012, 07:13 AM   #24
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He and his wife are spraying his boat in the slip

Some folks fear the over spray could do thousands of damage to nearby boats and canvass.

With a noisemaker for power one could tow the camel ( working float) to a deserted creek and spray away.
We have seen this done twice and by professionals. All the prep work is completed in the slip, then the boat goes out to an anchorgae, for the final wipe down and then paint. With the amount of over-spray, this makes sense.
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Old 06-03-2014, 09:32 PM   #25
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I've had a couple more years of practicing my repair technique for Awlgrip, and I thought I would pass on what I've learned. I assume this would work for any two part catalyzed paint.

1. Preparation. Depending on the size of the area I am patching, I have used different heads on a Dremel tool. Delfin has a very good paint job and properly applied, Awlgrip is fairly thick so when there is a ding, I use the Dremel to grind down to bright metal. I mostly use a burr for this.

2. Anti-corrosion primer (metal only). I am fortunate to have a couple of quarts of a now discontinued anti-corrosion primer from Awlgrip. It is yellow, so it seems to be a catalyzed, two part zinc chromate. This step may not be necessary, but I feel better laying a thin coat of this stuff over the bare metal within about 20 minutes of gouging out the ding. There are other more current products available for anti-corrosion priming.

3. Filling. I have used both epoxy thickened with fairing compound and 3M vinyl ester sanding filler. I prefer the 3M product since it dries within 10 minutes and is easy to sand. This goes on 24 hours after the anti-corrosion primer and should be laid on proud of the surface. It doesn't shrink, but sometimes you still have to put on a couple of layers to get enough on so that when sanded, the repair area is perfectly flat. This turns out to be the hardest part of the whole process. When you think the surface is flat, keep sanding. At this point, 400 grit is fine. What you are looking for is sanding so that no possible edge is visible and you can see the surrounding paint layers beginning to show through. Hard to describe, but it is just a fact that once you put the top coat on, if the repair isn't absolutely flat you will see the edge of the fairing compound.

4. About an hour later, you can put the first coat of primer on. For Awlgrip, I use 545 applied with an airbrush. This needs to be thinned about 30% to flow through the airbrush. DO NOT MASK. Overspray will happen, but don't worry. It will be easily removed in subsequent steps. What is nice about the airbrush is that you can spray out such a thin coat that you can easily avoid drips. Spray until the surface becomes shiny, then STOP. Let each coat dry about 10 minutes before putting on another coat. I put on at least 3, and usually 4 coats.

5. Sanding. Using 800 grit wet and dry, sand the primed area flat with water. Do this 24 hours after painting. DON'T WORRY about the over spray area. Again, this will take care of itself later.

6. Finish coat. Again, mix the finish coat thinned 30% or so. Apply with the air brush until the surface glistens, and stop as soon as the surface looks 'wet' and glossy. Lay on 4 coats and go have a beer after cleaning your air brush.

7. Sanding. The next day, sand the entire area of the ding and immediately surrounding area with 800 wet and dry, followed by 1000 wet and dry, expanding the sanding area. Finish sanding with 2000 grit, again, expanding the sanding area a bit.

8. Polishing. Now apply Meguiars #8 by hand to the area, including rubbing off any remaining overspray. Rub it in well. Don't bother with a buffer - hand application with a bit of elbow grease works fine. Follow with #4, then #2. Finish with Awlcare.

Clean up. I use MEK to clean the air brush. Empty remaining paint from the pot, rinse with MEK. Fill a small waxed paper cup about half full with MEK and with the pot removed, stick the air brush venturi port (where the pot attaches that sucks up the paint) and circulate the MEK. Pour this into the pot and rinse the pot out well.

Materials needed: For Awlgrip, the minimum is 545 primer (2 part), top coat (2 part), T0006 primer reducer, T0003 top coat reducer, MEK, Iwata air brush (Iwata N2000 Neo Siphon-Feed Dual Action Airbrush: Crafts : Walmart.com). Oh yes, and a sprayers respirator (Marine & Boating | Marine Replacement Parts | 3M 37079 7500 Respirator Pack Out, Lg. | M1483963 - GlobalIndustrial.com).

This really is a pretty easy process that if you have steel or aluminum is the key to decades of a great looking finish. Hope this helps.
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Old 06-04-2014, 01:20 AM   #26
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My understanding is that Hatteras Yachts, who paint most of their new builds, no longer us Awlgrip and are now using Awlcraft. This is our first experience with the paint so it's nice to get positive feed back.
Awlcraft is also a product of Awlgrip so same manufacturer just different paint.
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Old 06-04-2014, 07:52 AM   #27
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Last I checked Hatteras was using AlexSeal and has been for a few years now. Something just change?
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Old 06-04-2014, 08:27 AM   #28
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Last I checked Hatteras was using AlexSeal and has been for a few years now. Something just change?

From a Hatteras pdf I just read.Click image for larger version

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Old 06-04-2014, 08:42 AM   #29
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Interesting. Their new 100 footer launched last year was done in Alexseal as were two sport fish I know of. AlexSeal has a big following among the SF market, most of the custom Carolina builders use it, Jarrett Bay, Bayliss, Paul Mann et al. No direct experience myself, I did my swim platform, flying bridge, boat deck and forward sun deck with Awl Grip and very happy with it.
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Old 06-04-2014, 09:12 AM   #30
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I've had a couple more years of practicing my repair technique for Awlgrip, and I thought I would pass on what I've learned. I assume this would work for any two part catalyzed paint...
Good post Carl. After 18 months with the new paint job, I'm still refining our repair technique.
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Old 06-04-2014, 09:51 AM   #31
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Good post Carl. After 18 months with the new paint job, I'm still refining our repair technique.
With fiberglass, you process is a bit simpler but should be similar. I'm sure other brands are as good, but I have come to love Awlgrip. Not that impressed with Awlcraft to be honest, and I don't really see it as being any easier to work with although I gather it is more environmentally friendly.
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Old 06-04-2014, 10:31 AM   #32
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I saw that on the Hatteras site too and I'm not sure whether it's accurate. I do know as Caltex said they had started using AlexSeal instead. Westport also uses AlexSeal, to add to the list. AlexSeal has picked up a good market share over the last few years.
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Old 06-04-2014, 10:48 AM   #33
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With fiberglass, you process is a bit simpler but should be similar. I'm sure other brands are as good, but I have come to love Awlgrip. Not that impressed with Awlcraft to be honest, and I don't really see it as being any easier to work with although I gather it is more environmentally friendly.

We had AwlGrip Topcoat on Hobo when we repainted with AwlCraft 2000 in Trinidad. I had wanted to try Axlseal but the best painter had the most experience with the AwlCraft. AwlCraft 2000 is not as hard a finish being an acrylic but is a little easier for me to repair. Ask me in another 10 years.

As far as being environmentally friendly, AwlCraft 2000 is still pretty nasty. The VOC's are very high IMHO.
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Old 06-04-2014, 12:49 PM   #34
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We had AwlGrip Topcoat on Hobo when we repainted with AwlCraft 2000 in Trinidad. I had wanted to try Axlseal but the best painter had the most experience with the AwlCraft. AwlCraft 2000 is not as hard a finish being an acrylic but is a little easier for me to repair. Ask me in another 10 years.

As far as being environmentally friendly, AwlCraft 2000 is still pretty nasty. The VOC's are very high IMHO.
I can't tell the difference in smell between the two either. Also, I find the color just a tad different between the two, so as long as you stick to Awlcraft, no issue.
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Old 06-04-2014, 12:58 PM   #35
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Awl grip is a nightmare. Hard to touch up, and need lot of drying time brush or spray.
That is why the company sells Awlcraft a variation of Awlgrip that is much more DIY friendly and is easier to patch and repair. The finished job looks the same and only a small degradation in expected life. With the ease of repair and patching it may well last as long as paint that is hard to repair and you end up with all or none situation. I have owned 5 boats with Awlgrip and now one with Awlcraft cant tell the difference.
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Old 06-04-2014, 01:41 PM   #36
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Here's what AwlGrip says about the differences between AwlCraft 2000 and AwlGrip Topcoat:

Topcoats

The Awlgrip Premium Urethane Topcoat is a polyester based polyurethane coating which can be applied by spray, brush, roller or the roller/brush combination. Awlgrip provides excellent chemical and abrasion resistance, along with outstanding color retention.

Awlcraft 2000 is an acrylic based polyurethane coating designed only for spray application. It is designed for the yard, applicator or owner who is willing to sacrifice a little durability to have a faster curing, more easily repaired finish.
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Old 06-04-2014, 03:18 PM   #37
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I'm a Sterling man but a friend painted his GB with Alexseal which is Awlgrip's original owners company and boasting it's much better. He loves it and did it himself. He's trying to convince me to change.

He said after the covenant of non competition expired he came out with a much better product.
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Old 06-05-2014, 01:20 AM   #38
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Others pointed out that the painters they hired were use to Awlgrip and, therefore, wanted to use it. If they've been successfully painting recently with Awlgrip that's great and good reason. However, many of them have not painted with current Awlgrip and try to use their old methods leading to problems. This isn't your father's Awlgrip. That's a reminder that whatever product is used one needs to make sure they read the current instructions and recommendations.
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Old 06-05-2014, 06:54 AM   #39
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That's a reminder that whatever product is used one needs to make sure they read the current instructions and recommendations.

Does allgrip still suggest vertical brushing rather than fore & aft?
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Old 06-05-2014, 08:14 AM   #40
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Others pointed out that the painters they hired were use to Awlgrip and, therefore, wanted to use it. If they've been successfully painting recently with Awlgrip that's great and good reason. However, many of them have not painted with current Awlgrip and try to use their old methods leading to problems. This isn't your father's Awlgrip. That's a reminder that whatever product is used one needs to make sure they read the current instructions and recommendations.
Which AwlGrip product has changed it's formulation?
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