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Old 05-09-2016, 09:56 PM   #21
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On the last Broward I ran we had the aluminum rub rails and cleats polished out and then clear coated. They came out looking a lot like polished like SS.
How long did it last?
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Old 05-09-2016, 10:04 PM   #22
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Paint it! Use proper primer and a compatible top coat and its good to go.
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Old 05-09-2016, 10:34 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Capt.Bill11 View Post
On the last Broward I ran we had the aluminum rub rails and cleats polished out and then clear coated. They came out looking a lot like polished like SS.
The clear coating can make them retain the beautiful polish. I'd either clear coat or paint it. Leaving as is will only be a losing proposition.
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Old 05-09-2016, 11:45 PM   #24
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Whatever you choose Larry do yourself a favor and do it this weekend. Florida weather is going to make your choice for you if you wait too long. Prep is king.
Hmm. Good point.
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Old 05-10-2016, 03:26 AM   #25
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It looks cool as it is, but I'd make it white somehow, personally.
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Old 05-10-2016, 09:00 AM   #26
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Aluminum painting guy here. Do you know how you spell "PAINT" when it comes to aluminum? Omit the letter "T" a the end of the word. PAIN!

I cannot stress how important following correct prep procedure is when painting aluminum. Failure to do so will result in a blistered, failed paint system in less than a month or two.

1.) Sand the entire surface with 100 grit. Preferably sand blast.

2.) Using a new paint brush, wet the entire surface with diluted ALUMIPREP NO. 33 from Aircraft Spruce. Once every inch of the surface has been etched it should be gleaming white clean aluminum. This is what real aluminum looks like. Rinse off the Alumiprep and *keep the substrait wet until done with the next step*. If you allow any area to dry aluminum oxide starts to appear immediately.

3.) Using a new paint brush, wet the entire surface with diluted ALODINE 1001 from Aircraft Spruce. Rinse all alodine off and allow to air dry. *Do not dry with a rag or any fabric!* Small fibers will stick to the aluminum and become "wicks" when you paint causing the paint to fail.

4.) Apply a good chromate containing epoxy primer. I prefer Alexseal Cor Spec Primer 135 | Alexseal Yacht Coatings

5.) Apply a good finish primer. I prefer Alexseal Finish Primer 442 | Alexseal Yacht Coatings

6.) Paint it. This is the step that people think you are doing when you tell them you are painting your boat. In actuality you are doing steps 1 through 5 for 99% of the time.
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Old 05-10-2016, 09:07 AM   #27
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Another option is to take the panels to shop that powder coats and have them sand blast and powder coat each panel.

Another tip is any time you screw a stainless steel fastener into aluminum use Tef-Gel: TEF-GEL - Ultra safety systems - Home page This stuff is magic.
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Old 05-10-2016, 09:48 AM   #28
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Another option is to take the panels to shop that powder coats and have them sand blast and powder coat each panel.

Another tip is any time you screw a stainless steel fastener into aluminum use Tef-Gel: TEF-GEL - Ultra safety systems - Home page This stuff is magic.
Very good info. Thank you. I decided on the alum since it was the same material as the original framing it is attached to. Yes, I knew about the extra ordinary prep part of the paint job but it looks more like I'll at least "try" to maintain it natural with rouge, polish and a buffer.
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Old 05-10-2016, 05:06 PM   #29
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This afternoon, I thought I would take a piece of scrap 5052 aluminum from the project, take the buffer and a bit of rouge and see how much work it would be to polish it up. This was about a 5 minute investment here in the photo with my reflection in the polished area to the left and the mill finish to the right. The mistake was letting the Admiral see it. Now it looks like I've got quite a bit of polishing to do.
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Old 05-10-2016, 06:05 PM   #30
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When the sun catches your skivvies on fire after a couple of times walking around it, you'll paint it.
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Old 05-10-2016, 06:12 PM   #31
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Greetings,
SKIVVIES? I thought "Bucky's" last name was naked.

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Old 05-10-2016, 06:37 PM   #32
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How long did it last?
Last time I saw the boat the coating had been on for a couple of years and it still looked good.
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Old 05-12-2016, 09:33 PM   #33
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First one polished, installed and sealed today. i broke off four of the cheap arse Ace Hdwe SS screws in the aluminum while doing the fit and spent three extra hours punching them out with a drill press. These things snap like pretzels. I've got to find some better quality screws for the rest. Even the ones from West Marine did better.
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Old 06-15-2016, 12:12 AM   #34
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OK, so as you can see, I decided to polish the whole thing, and I added some eighth inch 5052 aluminum plates to the doors to carry through the theme. With that completed, I'm now turning to the inside where after putting the old teak framing back up (fitted to the old windows), it's looking kind-of "industrial". I'm gonna need to scarf-in quite a bit of new wood to make up the difference in window sizes and I'm not that good in matching stain.
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Old 06-15-2016, 06:45 AM   #35
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Healhustler, your windows look great but what I am admiring and never seemed to notice before is your mast. I was comparing it to what can be seen pics of the mast of a Manatee that just came on the market in WI. Your mast and boom setup looks a lot better thought out than the WI Manatee.
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Old 06-15-2016, 07:26 AM   #36
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Looking good! You going to be ready to go cruising when I get back down there in November?

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Old 06-15-2016, 09:53 AM   #37
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Healhustler, your windows look great but what I am admiring and never seemed to notice before is your mast. I was comparing it to what can be seen pics of the mast of a Manatee that just came on the market in WI. Your mast and boom setup looks a lot better thought out than the WI Manatee.
Yeah, I saw that mast also. It looks as if the owner lifted the boom pivot point to be above the roof, but the mounting on the pilothouse wall looks still original. I sold my mast $ boom when I decided to clear the roof for nothing but solar, and the rearward lean was done to limit shading of the panels while still providing the 16.5 degree downscan ability for the radar. The mast is made from various pieces I found in marine salvage places except for the hinge. Cost was about $850 after all the welding. I'll probably add a gas cylinder or two for the Admiral. Weight is 65 lb. with electronics on it.
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Old 06-15-2016, 10:34 AM   #38
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Great job on the Windows Larry. The aluminum boat next to us is an example of improper painting of aluminum, the owner is now trying to figure out how to get this mess removed.
I would go with the "Airstream" look.
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