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Old 04-27-2015, 11:35 PM   #21
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Drill the head out. Remove cover. Remove screw remnant with vice grips. Replace screw with a more cooperative screw.
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Old 04-28-2015, 12:15 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CPseudonym View Post
If you have access to a cordless impact driver and appropriate tip you'll find out why it's one of my favorite tools about 30 seconds after retrieving that broken tip from the screw.
That's how my brother-in-law (former automobile mechanic) freed the towing ball from my tow drawbar. Worked well with a nut on a bolt. Not sure how well it would work on a screw head.
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Old 04-28-2015, 09:52 PM   #23
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Just to add to thread drift, I am looking at the Pro 1000, I assume the new models have the higher tension rope guard??

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Old 04-28-2015, 10:59 PM   #24
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Flyweight, what size windlass is that? I'm looking at a Lewmar Pro 700 to replace my old S/L Horizon 500. I'm trying to figure out if it is the same bolt hole pattern. I've been very happy with the Horizon and the Pro series is the new improved version.

MB, I'll ask about the rope guide thing when I talk to Lewmar tomorrow.
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Old 04-29-2015, 04:55 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyWright View Post
Now I've got a seized recessed screw head with a broken tip in the allen slot.
Al, I struck exactly the same situation when I tried to remove the fancy stainless swivel I had on my anchor set-up, when I wanted to end for end the chain to bring the better, newer-looking galvanised chain out of the locker and show less of the now slightly rusty part. Those recessed damn bolts with allan key slots to tighten always seem to seize up and then the slot strips out - or you have what happened to you. In the end I had to just cut through the bolt with an angle grinder and sacrifice it. I hope you have better luck on your winch. If you get it out, I strongly suggest replacing it with one with a nut type bolt-head you can get a decent tool onto, even if it does protrude and not look so neat and fancy.
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Old 04-29-2015, 08:25 AM   #26
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Flyweight, what size windlass is that? I'm looking at a Lewmar Pro 700 to replace my old S/L Horizon 500. I'm trying to figure out if it is the same bolt hole pattern. I've been very happy with the Horizon and the Pro series is the new improved version.

MB, I'll ask about the rope guide thing when I talk to Lewmar tomorrow.
HopCar: I have the Pro 1000 that I bought through you. The bolt hole pattern is almost, but not quite, the same IIRC. Wasn't a big deal though.

"Flyweight"?
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Old 04-29-2015, 08:34 AM   #27
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"Flyweight"?

Parks has obviously never met Al in person
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Old 04-29-2015, 09:40 AM   #28
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My Bad- I got it, good pun but I think its "thread non-drift".
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Old 04-30-2015, 12:43 AM   #29
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Just to add to thread drift, I am looking at the Pro 1000, I assume the new models have the higher tension rope guard??

MB
The images look like they have the new, wider guard, but no telling what some unscrupulous marine stores might carry. (present company excluded!) Even so, the new guard is a free upgrade for the 5 year warranty period.


Quote:
Originally Posted by HopCar View Post
Flyweight, what size windlass is that? I'm looking at a Lewmar Pro 700 to replace my old S/L Horizon 500. I'm trying to figure out if it is the same bolt hole pattern. I've been very happy with the Horizon and the Pro series is the new improved version.

MB, I'll ask about the rope guide thing when I talk to Lewmar tomorrow.
LOL!! I like that one, Parks! Is it that obvious??

The windlass is a Pro Series 1000. Mine has been flawless.
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Old 04-30-2015, 12:52 AM   #30
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So Al, is it out? Tried glaring at it? Julie Bishop, the Australian Foreign Minister has a death stare that would reduce it to powder, but she`s busy dealing with Indonesia right now.
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Old 04-30-2015, 12:59 AM   #31
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I'm not at the boat yet. Maybe next week after a fishing weekend. Need the windlass operating this weekend...don't want to take it down, just in case.
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Old 04-30-2015, 07:38 AM   #32
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I'm not at the boat yet. Maybe next week after a fishing weekend. Need the windlass operating this weekend...don't want to take it down, just in case.
Al, take note of my post above. But seriously, just how important is it to make this change anyway, if the thing has performed flawlessly..? I'm a great believer in the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" principle.
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Old 04-30-2015, 07:58 AM   #33
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Greetings,
Mr. PB. I tend to agree (leave it alone) but it's already "broke" with that allen key stub stuck in the cap screw. If not removed, that stub will quite rapidly rust, stain and spoil the ambiance of Mr. FW's pristine bowsprit. Now we can't have THAT can we?
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Old 04-30-2015, 12:24 PM   #34
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If all else fails Al, if you have a Dremel tool, it has a small cutoff wheel that you could use to cut a slot in the screw to back it out. I don't know if it will cut into the broken allen wrench as that is pretty hard steel. It would also be very hard not to cut into the surrounding surfaces but I'll bet you could do it.


Good Luck, it seems you have the same results I normally do with a simple project. A 5 minute job turns into a 5 hour job.
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Old 04-30-2015, 12:40 PM   #35
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Flyweight, it was originally a typo but I think it might catch on!
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Old 04-30-2015, 01:10 PM   #36
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Windmist, dremel makes a thin cutting wheel that mounts on small mandrel cuts great slot in anything metal. Used one yesterday. works as well as the operator. Made a slot in a "tamper proof" fastener. Guess it has now been tampered. Worked for that.
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Old 04-30-2015, 01:15 PM   #37
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I would bang the broken of allen wrench part with a chisel, etc., until it at least had some lateral movement. Then some high-tensile strength glue (gorilla glue even) to see if I could pull it out.
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Old 04-30-2015, 01:16 PM   #38
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For the stuck broken Allen hex key try a centre punch lightly tapping it backward opposite to the direction you were using it. It may loosen enough that it will release.
A good Allen key would have given warning by twisting before breaking.
i love Bondhus keys for that reason and we used them hard. Allen makes keys and they too are good keys.
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Old 04-30-2015, 01:49 PM   #39
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You raise a good point, Peter, but now it's become a personal challenge! As you point out though, it works fine now, so what's the hurry. I'll be spending a good part of the next 2 weeks aboard. If anchoring isn't imminent, I might give it a go...at least I'll work to remove the broken tip.

Windy/Tooly, That's the took I was envisioning using if I need to grind. I also have a larger grinder onboard, but it's a bit unwieldy.

I really appreciate everyone's great advice and suggestions. That's another thing I love about this forum!!

I'll update when I work on it. Cheers to you all!
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Old 04-30-2015, 04:12 PM   #40
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Greetings,
Mr. FW. Between work session on that nasty broken bit, keep the nasty bit covered with a gob of grease to minimize rusting and staining.
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