Nameboard varnish question

[firstbase]

Better to varnish the backs of name boards or leave them raw so moisture can escape? Will have 1/2" or so spacers between the boards and the hull. Hopefully not a "which anchor" question!

 

[roger howell]

Hi,
On our GB36, I varnished both sides of the nameboards, altho only the outsides required regular revarnishing. No trouble with moisture. I used nylon washers on the mounting screws to hold the boards proud of the transom.
Roger

 

[Donna]

I got rid of my name boards. I thought it really dated the boat. I filled the holes, painted a new stripe and it looks fantastic. I had the front of the boat letter as well as the back. Just an idea. The name boards were a pain.

 

[firstbase]

Thanks guys. Donna, nice idea. However, at this point we have about 8 months invested in these! bought new teak boards and had the name carved on transom, hail port and nav light name boards. Then spent about 8 friggin months learning how to gold leaf the incised letters in our spare time. Not as easy as you would think, flat lettering would have been a breeze. I don't even want to add up the cost of the real 24K gold leaf! I am finishing up last coats of varnish and wife the artist will outline the letters in black. These things are going on the boat no matter what! Hopefully the outlining will go a little faster than the gold leaf but when you don't do it for a living it's no walk in the park either.

 

[koliver]

I have tried both ways. I can't tell any difference between them.

 

[Sabre602]

I'd varnish the inboard sides. The varnish will last forever since it's not exposed to UV light or physical stress, and the wood will be more stable as its moisture content won't be constantly changing.

 

[firstbase]

Thanks, I have varnish on them already, just added another coat for good measure. When I took the old ones off the other day, to get ready for the wife's big boat re-naming party, I noticed that they were not varnished. That sort of jogged my memory a bit and I thought I remembered reading something about leaving them raw. Was just wondering if I should take it off but I won't.

 

[angus99]

Thanks, I have varnish on them already, just added another coat for good measure. When I took the old ones off the other day, to get ready for the wife's big boat re-naming party, I noticed that they were not varnished. That sort of jogged my memory a bit and I thought I remembered reading something about leaving them raw. Was just wondering if I should take it off but I won't.

I forget if you previously said you’d used CPES first. I’m doing my nameboards as well and did use CPES. How many coats are you using before and after the lettering was applied?

 

[Nomad Willy]

I would have oiled the backside.

 

[markpierce]

I would have avoided the nameboard. It introduces unnecessary exterior wood; further, nameboards are only useful within short sight distances and as flotsam if the boat is obliterated. Better to place the name (paint or decal) with a much larger font on the hull's sides.

 

[firstbase]

I forget if you previously said you’d used CPES first. I’m doing my nameboards as well and did use CPES. How many coats are you using before and after the lettering was applied?

Yes, I used two coats of CPES prior to the gold leaf. Now have 8 coats of Epifanes Wood Finish Gloss. We had coated the leaf for some protection but didn't like the look as it really killed the gloss. Getting the varnish on without getting it on the golf leaf was time consuming. Found the best way is to roll and tip. 4" roller and then tip it out with a foam throw away. We also tried every brand of "gold leaf paint" there is on the market. One-Short gold, Sheffield Gold, several others. Nothing came close to real gold leaf.

 

[firstbase]

I would have oiled the backside.

Thanks Willy, another option and one I didn't even think of. I know nothing really but wouldn't the oil evaporate, wash off, etc. leaving it raw and requiring recoating sooner than varnish?

 

[firstbase]

I would have avoided the nameboard. It introduces unnecessary exterior wood; further, nameboards are only useful within short sight distances and as flotsam if the boat is obliterated. Better to place the name (paint or decal) with a much larger font on the hull's sides.

Our GB 42 came with the stainless package which eliminated some of the more "painful" exterior teak. The previous owner Awlgripped some of what remained, eybrow, hatches. The varnished teak is tasteful but not excessive and we don't mind some varnishing. I guess having the name in extra large font on the hull sides would be better but don't think I would like the look on my particular make/model of trawler. We have used larger letters on the transom in a block style font which is as easily readable as any other.

 

[LN-RTP]

I would have varnished both sides: Seal the teak, it doesn’t need to breath.
Good choice on Epifanes, I used to buy that stuff by the case.

 

[hmason]

I would have avoided the nameboard. It introduces unnecessary exterior wood; further, nameboards are only useful within short sight distances and as flotsam if the boat is obliterated. Better to place the name (paint or decal) with a much larger font on the hull's sides.

If the name is not on the transom it is very difficult to call the leading boat by name on the VHF.

 

[lavida]

I have used varnish on teak nameboard and rails. "Bristol" - and found it to be an unnecessary and expensive way to attempt to 'protect' teak. Teak has natural oils that continually breathe and any attempt to seal teak eventually fails. For teak nameboards try using Smiths Clear Penetrating Expoxy Sealer (also known as CPES™) on back side. Seals and protects, allowing front exposed sides to naturally breathe.