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Old 03-02-2015, 05:40 PM   #21
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One of the most confusing and frustrating things for me since coming to trawlers is how most of the production boats of the era seem to vary in design quality, but even more so in shop to shop and daily build.

Most of these hulls from the 70's and 80's are still pretty sea worthy, but then were finished off with things like scrap wood under the teak decks, screwed down and not adequately sealed. Or, in your case, venting without proper water traps and an engine totally mis-matched for a trawler. Though, granted, I guess it could have been the idiocy of the original buyer. I have seen this sort of thing in varying degrees of thoughtlessness on numerous boats that I have looked at as well as my own.

Just cannot get over how they got so many things right and then blew it with some of the finer details.
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Old 03-02-2015, 11:42 PM   #22
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Change Orders:

One of the nice things about doing a major project like this is that you get to change things to the way that you want them. I know that sounds obvious, but most of us see things we would like to change on our boats but just don't get around to starting the project. When your already working with the Coosa, fiberglass, West system, etc. it's really easy to say, "while we're (you ) at it, how about we (you ) do this. So I have my man Sean.

Sean is doing 99% of the jobs on this project that I'm not doing. He does all the fiberglass / West system fabrication and repair. All the sanding and painting is his department. He's a better welder, fabricator, and is far stronger than I am. So when there is a project I want to add to his list or want him to help me with something, it usually starts with, "Hey Sean, when you reach a stopping point....". The job is time and materials, so I know it adds to the cost. Here are some of those things that most would say, "yea that would nice, but..." and never get around to doing it:



The outboard motor on the dingy had been hitting the stern light. the PO had added a bracket that clearly had gotten hit and the bracket holding the light had been bent. The power cable had even been cut by the skeg. The side lights had been nicely recessed in the roof line without compromising the lights display angle. Can we do that for the stern light without compromising the structural integrity of the roof? No Problem.
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Side light cut out is above the side window.
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Light fits in cut out and will be protected by a 1" thick Starboard plate.
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Dingy crane was banging against the railing because nothing held it fast. Can we add some glass to reinforce the deck for a 3" square pad eye to attach the winch cable hook to? Sometimes he goes above and beyond, but I like how it turned out.
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Would really like the engine side exhaust and engine room ventilation exhaust run out the transom.

Vents and Exhaust are below the salon rear sliding window.
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New exhaust beautifully installed! Old holes properly filled, glassed, and faired.
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That F*cking dorado vent leaked water and stained my cedar lined closet in the master stateroom. Who runs that kind of a vent into a clothes closet anyway?
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So much for that leak.
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Bigger projects coming next.....



Ted
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Old 03-03-2015, 05:52 AM   #23
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Nice!


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Old 03-03-2015, 06:10 AM   #24
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Nice work Ted . Looks like a nice shop to get some work done . If you decide to get rid of those old f#%#ing dorado vents let me know , I think I could make good use of them . Maybe I'd get a better price while you're still pissed about them
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Old 03-03-2015, 10:32 AM   #25
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West System ? You mean to tell me Sean is not using polyester ? OMG!
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Old 03-03-2015, 10:59 AM   #26
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West System ? You mean to tell me Sean is not using polyester ? OMG!
We use both; it depends on the project. The pics that are green were done with polyester. I can say we because I've played mixing boy on a lot of the larger projects.

Ted
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Old 03-04-2015, 12:05 AM   #27
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No exterior wood to maintain:

If I had wanted to spend my spare time varnishing, I would have bought a wood boat. I like all the interior wood, but prefer relatively low maintenance on the exterior. I want to use my boat, wash it, and twice a year wax it. So the exterior wood either needed to go or be covered. The teak steps going to the upper deck were replaced with coosa wrapped in fiberglass. They are far stronger than the teak and only need to be boat washed.

The cap rail and the rub rail took a lot more work.

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The rub rail goes down both sides of the boat and across the stern. Half the outward thickness is fiberglass laid up in the molding process. The other half is teak that is through bolted to the hull. Outward of the teak in 1" tall stainless steel solid rub rail. The rub rail tapers from maybe 3" at the hull to 1.25" at the stainless strip. To eliminate the need to maintain the teak, we encapsulated it. Wish it had been that simple. First the stainless guard was removed. Then all the gel coat was sanded off the fiberglass portion back to the hull. Next the teak was sanded and planed down so that after it was glass covered it would have it's original dimensions. Now comes the fun part. 33' x 8" strips of bi-axial cloth were cut, 2 for each side. All the teak from the front to the corner where the side turns into the transom was wetted with West system with slow hardener. When the West system started to get tacky we applied the cloth. Starting at the front, I would roll out the first 3' of cloth on the top of the chine and hold the remaining roll. Sean would wet out the cloth on the top of the chine, position it so the edge was against the hull, and roll out the air bubbles in the cloth. After he had done this for about 6', he went back, wetted out the rest of the cloth and wrapped it down the face of the chine, underneath back to the hull where he would trim it to just meet the hull, and then roll out all the bubbles. Down the hull we went only stopping long enough for me to mix up another 20 pumps of West system. It took about 2 hours to apply that 33' piece of cloth. We cleaned up tools, had lunch and then applied the second layer same as the first. After the second layer, I would mix up 20 pumps of west system and add the red fairing power till it reached the consistency of peanut butter. Sean would paint (thickness of frosting on a cake) and cover all the cloth.

The object was to bond the cloth to the teak and fiberglass with 2 layers (this is an impact area) and then the fairing putty on top, all to chemically cure together over night. It took about 2 gallons of West system to do each side.

In this pic, you can see the top and face of the rub rail already sanded but not the bottom. Better pics to come on the cap rail.
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The cap rail was a little different. It sits on top of the sides of the hull, but doesn't touch the sides. There is a bead of caulk that sealed the cap rail to the gel coat. Preperation was to sand down the cap rails, remove the caulk, and enlarge the slot so that the cloth could be tucked in side. After the gass was applied and tucked into the slot, West system with bodding additive was used to fill the slot, and then a small fillet was applied between the cloth and the fiberglass. Finally West system with red fairing powder was put on top.

Sean prepping the cap rail.
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Aft cap rail ready to be covered.
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Wetting out the teak.
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Laying out the bi-axial cloth.
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Wetting out the cloth.
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Only one seam in the corner.
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Applying the fairing frosting.
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Lots of sanding ahead.
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Coming next, my teak deck.

Ted
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Old 03-04-2015, 12:26 AM   #28
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Must be little demand for the lift if it is available to be idle for hours for one to do repairs while hanging. Frankly, I want my boat to be secured (not hanging) as soon as possible.


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Old 03-04-2015, 03:11 AM   #29
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Great work Ted!


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Old 03-04-2015, 06:13 AM   #30
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Really nice Ted . That is a lot of work . Looks like you have one heck of a fiberglass man .
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Old 03-04-2015, 08:00 AM   #31
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Must be little demand for the lift if it is available to be idle for hours for one to do repairs while hanging. Frankly, I want my boat to be secured (not hanging) as soon as possible.
Mark, when a boat is short hauled, it's keel blocked so that the weight of the boat is resting on the keel with very little weight on the slings. Policy varies depending on marina. The one I use in Ocean City hauls, pressure washes, relocates in the yard, and blocks one boat an hour. Their idea of a short haul is 50 minutes to do a repair (such as swap a prop) and then it goes back over. Scott's Cove will only short haul if they have no other boats waiting. Their hauling work is much more seasonal as waterman haul between oystering and crabbing, and again between crabbing and oystering. The charter fleet hauls in the winter and splashes in the spring. Same for the recreational crowd. Short hauling is a courtesy for the watermen so that they can get back to work the next day.

Ted
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Old 03-04-2015, 08:27 AM   #32
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No exterior wood to maintain: The cap rail and the rub rail took a lot more work...The rub rail...
Ted: Thanks for posting. This something I've only dreamed about doing on Hobo.
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Old 03-04-2015, 08:39 AM   #33
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You had me up to fiber-glassing over the teak cap rail, I know your reasoning, just feels like the boat was violated....
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Old 03-04-2015, 08:41 AM   #34
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Ted- regarding fuel burn, don't expect a huge improvement with the Deere. The 450C is one of the best high output diesels when running down in the 1000-1200rpm range, down there it still produces 18-19hp per gph along the prop load curve. Way better than most. The Deere will be better as it will be in the meat of it's power curve, and has to have less parasitic losses, but the difference may not be huge.
2gal/hr at 7.5kts is great for a 38' boat with 450hp.
Just wondering what are the specs and weight of your custom boat?
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Old 03-04-2015, 09:53 AM   #35
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You had me up to fiber-glassing over the teak cap rail, I know your reasoning, just feels like the boat was violated....
You're not going to like what I did to the teak deck.

Ted
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Old 03-04-2015, 10:03 AM   #36
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2gal/hr at 7.5kts is great for a 38' boat with 450hp.
Just wondering what are the specs and weight of your custom boat?
Specs for the Cherubini 45'

LOA 45'
LWL 42'
Beam 14' 6"
Draft 4' 6"
Displacement 32K to 36K depending on the source.

Ted
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Old 03-04-2015, 10:21 AM   #37
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2gal/hr at 7.5kts is great for a 38' boat with 450hp.
Just wondering what are the specs and weight of your custom boat?
Mine is LIGHT, 14000lb, 38x12' planing capable. Different category from the OP's vessel.
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Old 03-04-2015, 10:42 AM   #38
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Ted is the Hans Christian model the same hull ?
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Old 03-04-2015, 10:53 AM   #39
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Specs for the Cherubini 45'

LOA 45'
LWL 42'
Beam 14' 6"
Draft 4' 6"
Displacement 32K to 36K depending on the source.

Ted
How many Cherubini 45's were built?
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Old 03-04-2015, 11:00 AM   #40
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Ted is the Hans Christian model the same hull ?
I believe it is the same hull and molds but not positive. The Hans Christian were built in Taiwan and the Cherubini were built in New Jersey.

Ted
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