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Old 04-12-2017, 04:10 PM   #1
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Limber holes from the lazarette

I've emptied the lazarette of all junk in preparation for replacing the swim platform brackets' back-up blocks. In fact, I have cut out the original glassed-in wood and stainless steel back-up and will epoxy in new fiberglass back-up blocks. But, that's not what this post is for (but there is one pic, anyway).

I've found that the transverse plywood bulkhead separating the lazarette from the ER was apparently tabbed into the hull. There are no apparent limber holes through the bulkhead or through the small glassed-in transverse stiffeners on the hull. (Actually, I just discovered while taking pics for this post, that the center portion is open, leaving puddles outboard.) This means that there is no way for leakage water to make its way to the middle of the boat where the bilge pump is in its sump. There has been continuous leakage around the swim platform brackets' glassed-in bolts, minor leaks around the trim tab pistons, leaks from cracked scuppers, and overflow from blocked lazarette hatch gutter drains.

The transverse plywood bulkhead has delaminated and was badly, inexpertly repaired. It's due for a proper job, but not this spring.

I feel as though I should drill limber holes so that permanent puddles do not remain in the lazarette. Even though, of course, my new backup blocks and properly bedded brackets, as well as larger gutter drains should cut that down.

Thoughts? Why would there have been no limber holes in the lazarette? There are limber holes in the stiffeners and through the stringers in the ER.
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Old 04-12-2017, 04:22 PM   #2
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Greetings,
Mr. DH. IF you anticipate doing a "proper job" at some point in the near future, I would probably leave anything other than immediate (swim platform) repairs to that near future date. Baby steps IOW..... My. $.02...
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Old 04-12-2017, 05:19 PM   #3
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Thanks for bringing this up; our lazarette has a similar problem. My plan is to wait until the fuel tanks get replaced because the fuel tanks back against the bulkhead.
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Old 04-12-2017, 05:27 PM   #4
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I would do it then hit the holes with epoxy. When you go back to do the full repair you can finish it all up properly. Why no holes? Well whoever was supposed to do it may have missed it. It's definitely not good to leave puddles anywhere.

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Old 04-12-2017, 05:46 PM   #5
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I would do it then hit the holes with epoxy.

That was my thought as well. On my sailboat, the limber holes were drilled, then a short length of PVP pipe was epoxied (or maybe 5200) into the hole to provide a waterproof lining. Cut off flush either end it works great. However, the epoxy will do almost the same thing with a few less steps.
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Old 04-12-2017, 07:17 PM   #6
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The other issue, 'pon close and personal experiences kneeling down there, even with folded yoga mat to kneel upon, is that there are many places in that lazarette that will trap water and that cannot be limbered. There are glasses in pads for the struts (four), pads for the rudder stuffing boxes (2), pads for the hydraulic steering (2). And rust stained yuckey places upstream (aft) of each. If it were a roof, we architects (and roofers) would put a 'cricket' or a 'gusset' to prevent the puddle.

I concur, FF, 'scope creep' ruins budgets and timings. OTOH, the genset muffler and hose is really poorly. intrusively run.
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Old 04-12-2017, 07:21 PM   #7
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What about a low cost bilge pump in the Laz and pump it back overboard? That way, the Laz becomes a collision bulkhead in the event of a stern collision.
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Old 04-12-2017, 08:12 PM   #8
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I think I would drill limber holes for those brass sleeves that accept boat plugs (flip top for outboard type boats). Total cost about $4 per hole for brass sleeve and plug. 1" spade bit and a little epoxy. If your repair gets back burnered, no problem.
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Old 04-12-2017, 08:26 PM   #9
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I think I would drill limber holes for those brass sleeves that accept boat plugs (flip top for outboard type boats). Total cost about $4 per hole for brass sleeve and plug. 1" spade bit and a little epoxy. If your repair gets back burnered, no problem.
1″ OD Brass Drain Tube – 1 7/8″ Length |

Good idea

Come in lengths up to 8"
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Old 04-13-2017, 07:04 AM   #10
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Line the limber holes with a small piece of copper tubing.

Then string a brass or bronze window chain thru the holes with a bronze spring on one end.

An occasional pull on the chain will clear the holes from accumulated gunk .
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Old 04-13-2017, 10:14 PM   #11
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How about lining them with some thin wall PVC pipe or similar tubing. You won't have to worry about corrosion.
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