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Old 01-08-2013, 06:31 AM   #21
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Greetings,
Mr. FF. You're right about cheap and sticky but it's nigh on impossible to remove all traces. Yes, you can remove the bulk of it by scraping but any residual material left will not allow one to paint or varnish-won't stick.
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Old 01-08-2013, 09:34 PM   #22
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It would be interesting to see you try to remove all traces of silicone from 1/2" down inside a crack. My repairs using this stuff have NEVER required further attention. Probably because it works so well.
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Old 01-08-2013, 09:47 PM   #23
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Greetings,
Fair enough Mr. Keith. My experience has been just the opposite.
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Old 01-08-2013, 10:56 PM   #24
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Greetings,
Fair enough Mr. Keith. My experience has been just the opposite.
So have mine.
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Old 01-09-2013, 03:47 AM   #25
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I am about to sell the boat and I'd rather do just a quick fix.
Fwoar .... reading this pisses me off !!!! ...
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Old 01-09-2013, 03:49 AM   #26
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Greetings,
Fair enough Mr. Keith. My experience has been just the opposite.
I'm with you RT.
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Old 01-09-2013, 04:40 AM   #27
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So both of you have used flowable silicone to stop leaks with poor results?
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Old 01-09-2013, 04:52 AM   #28
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So both of you have used flowable silicone to stop leaks with poor results?
Not what I'm saying. My point is that You can't possibly expect to remove all traces of silicone and paint or varnish over it and expect the paint to stick.

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Old 01-09-2013, 07:49 AM   #29
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So don't knock my fix if you've never tried it. You're just talking blah blah about silicone in general.
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Old 01-09-2013, 08:02 AM   #30
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So don't knock my fix if you've never tried it. You're just talking blah blah about silicone in general.
Hahahaha OMG seriously??? You are making no sense at all or perhaps you're speaking to the voices in your head?!

Don't snarl at me because you're insecure about your half arsed fix. Perhaps you should get down off your high horse and re read what I said. Please show me where i knocked your "fix" I couldn't care less if you want to use silicone. Pull your head cupcake!

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Old 01-09-2013, 08:07 AM   #31
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Greetings,
Mr. Keith. You're correct. I have only had experience with the "common" silicone. I retract my comments in reference to the "flowable" type of silicone available at auto parts stores as I, as you suggested, have no experience with it. I based my comments on 35 years or so of working with silicone oils, greases and sealants which I will NOT have on a boat and exhibit the characteristics I mentioned. Apologies.
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Old 01-09-2013, 10:20 AM   #32
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Now back to fixing the leak!

The primary importants is to find the leak and fix it then make it pretty. As mentioned before the leak may not be the windows, just where the leak is showing up. That has happened to me several times. The way to find out is to cover the whole area, deck, railings, with a tarp, but let the window exposed. If the leak stops you then know its not the windows. Being the Eagle is sway back the water drain back and shows up at the center of the boat, but the leak may be at the bow. Rail and deck fasteners are primary areas to look. Anyway use what ever you feel like. 5200 is still my choise.
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Old 01-09-2013, 11:01 AM   #33
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Greetings,
The OP was asking for a quick and dirty fix in order to sell the boat. (I agree Mr. Hendo. Somewhat pisses me off as well). My suggestions were based on the NEXT owner when he/she will potentially do a proper fix. For the same reason if the teak on "my" boat were ever to be painted, I would surely put a couple of coats of sealer (Cetol etc.) on to lessen the future owners, or my own grief should he/she/me decide to strip said paint in the future.
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Old 01-10-2013, 01:31 AM   #34
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I apoligize back RT. I have about the same experience with some of it in the R&D field, but I guess your experience must be better than mine, even when you have no experience with my material or technique. And why would you want to varnish deep down inside a crack? Would either of you like to relate which common household chemical can remove silicone residue?
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Old 01-10-2013, 02:17 AM   #35
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Greetings,
Mr. Keith. As I mentioned, you're automotive silicone may work. I've seen paint able household caulk in the stores that advertize "contains silicone".
As for a solvent. One of the aromatic hydrocarbons....Toluene, benzene...damn, I can't remember which...Most probably toluene. Chromic acid was the "solvent" of choice for impermeable materials (glazed ceramics, glass etc.)...Ah, NOT your common household chemical.
As Mr. FF mentioned, the bulk of the caulk can readily be scraped off and the more you can scrape off, the less solvent necessary.
I didn't work with silicone's on a daily basis but over the years I came to be VERY wary of both cleanliness and diligent use of the stuff. One oily fingerprint would get spread all over. The stuff is GREAT for aquariums, tubs and toilets, some automotive flange applications and a plethora of other uses but boats? Not mine. Overreaction? Most probably.
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