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Old 09-18-2016, 10:43 AM   #41
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Larry any thoughts on moving the fuel tank vent line? Thankfully I didnt have to deal with the tank issue. But I do remeber the tight fit of the oil pan thru the transom door! I also learned that the lift center of the motor is under the galley by about a foot. I'm loving the Trojan L16 batteries, so much more floor space in ER. I do wish I had had the time and money to replace the old pegboard, but paint is holding up very well, just a little dated looking. Carry on!
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Old 09-18-2016, 04:37 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by Larry M View Post

Yup. I'll be using GPO3 to isolate the tanks from the hull, moisture and fiberglass. This is where some extra time/detail/extra $s will be spent. More on this later.
PM me. I can probably help you with the GPO3.
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Old 09-18-2016, 04:59 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by what_barnacles View Post
Whats Bomac charging for the rebuild?

I'm meeting with Bomac in the morning. I should have final numbers by mid week and will post them then.

A while back I bought an elbow from him and it was cheaper than everyone else. But recently I have been priced with what seems like way too high of a price for an injector $750 if you dont have a core (no one on here believed me ), and just last week a cupro heat exchanger was priced at $900.

The internet is your friend on the heat exchanger. You can probably knock off $150-$200.

Oh and what is GPO3? I'll be cutting one of my tanks out in the next week or so, soon as I build up the courage...
GPO3 is a fiberglass reinforced thermoset polyester, what ever that means. It doesn't absorb moisture so it sounds like its perfect to isolate the tanks from the hull/supports. Steve D'Antonio and a few others have written a few articles that I've read and it sounds like the best product for what we're looking to do.
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Old 09-18-2016, 05:08 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by Sealife View Post
Larry any thoughts on moving the fuel tank vent line? Thankfully I didnt have to deal with the tank issue. But I do remeber the tight fit of the oil pan thru the transom door! I also learned that the lift center of the motor is under the galley by about a foot. I'm loving the Trojan L16 batteries, so much more floor space in ER. I do wish I had had the time and money to replace the old pegboard, but paint is holding up very well, just a little dated looking. Carry on!
Scott: I'm not sure yet on the vents. I may leave them. Dauntless had some issues with water getting into the tanks but that may have been at the vent connection on the tank. To date I haven't had any problems.

How or what did you use to get the engine back in? I saw what Ted did, which I like. The fork lift/I-beam/C-brace worked OK getting the engine out but I'm not convinced it's the way best way put it back.

What paint did you use?
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Old 09-18-2016, 05:09 PM   #45
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PM me. I can probably help you with the GPO3.
Sent. Thanks
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Old 09-18-2016, 07:23 PM   #46
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Bomac quoted $75 per injector a couple weeks ago....that is with core return.

Am Diesel was $125 per injector with cire, $275 without.
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Old 09-18-2016, 08:25 PM   #47
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If at all possible have them build in clean out ports. Even if they have to put them on the inboard side. It will be worth every penny.
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Old 09-18-2016, 09:11 PM   #48
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Since Bomac is going to be painting the engine, you should see if they would paint it white.

That would be very yachty and unique as well.
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Old 09-18-2016, 09:28 PM   #49
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I got to have alot of fun, as the marina blocked my boat in even though I told them I was pulling the engine. Then they wanted me to pay to move the boats behind me...

So they could only get to me from the stbd quarter. So I had to get the engine and 12kw Westerbeke into the cockpit, then the new engine and gen back in on my own.

I had a gantry set up in the salon, and a rolling hydraulic jack on the glass(that I replaced) covering the ballast in the keel. Simply controlled height with jack and rolled forward and back as needed. Easier going in as the stringers sloped "downhill". But I dont have your metal engine cradle, just glassed stringers. I think the hydraulic rolling jack is the way to go though. Just used a 2"x10" board under the oil pan.

Getting everything from ER to cockpit and back is a whole other story, but you shouldnt have that issue. Just drop motor from fork lift onto jack and roll into place. Disclaimer..I have alot of rigging experience with big machinery.
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Old 09-18-2016, 10:20 PM   #50
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For the ER tiles, they were in good shape except for two(water damage). We just used Kilz, then an exterior GLOSS paint. Wipes up easy, occasional touch up required in high traffic areas, but cheap and easy. Even if I use chemicals (acetone included)for belt dust etc. it doesn't seem to affect paint. There may be a slight discloration due to heat, touched up areas appear brighter. But you would struggle to see if I didn't point them out, and I didnt have stadium lighting in there. So far so good.

Like I mentioned in my original refit thread, it was a balancing act of time and money, and our boat was never going to be the best out there (Scout). We justed wanted a good cruising platform. Besides, who knows what these things will be worth when they are 40 years old!

Hobo is already alot cleaner then Sealife....
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Old 09-19-2016, 09:01 AM   #51
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Check farm and tractor equipment companies for injectors and other main engine parts.


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Old 09-19-2016, 12:18 PM   #52
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Been here with new fuel tanks. Not in a KK. My list of "since it's out" got longer and longer. But in the end gave everyone better piece of mind knowing there wasn't fuel filling up the ER floor. Removed one of the tanks and it was one of the best calls in boating I have ever made. Don't know how more fuel didn't end up all over the place as it was about the size of a pea on the bottom.
I hope your project goes without any major hitches! Don't hesitate to take on any projects or add to the list one of the best times to do things in the ER as it's free of mechanicals.
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Old 09-19-2016, 07:17 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by what_barnacles View Post
Whats Bomac charging for the rebuild?

$10,200 as of today for the SP135. The cost of the pistons has gone up. lol. I'm using my heat exchanger (new within the last year plus our SS exhaust elbow. The cam may add some cost. It's a wear point that may need to be replaced.

A while back I bought an elbow from him and it was cheaper than everyone else...

I believe he has the exhaust elbows for the FL120s cast here in the US.

...
..
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Old 09-19-2016, 07:43 PM   #54
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If at all possible have them build in clean out ports. Even if they have to put them on the inboard side. It will be worth every penny.
I hear you but we're only having one per tank at the low forward chamber. Because of the design of the KK and the length of the tanks (3 baffles, 4 chambers), I won't/can't give up the interior wall space that's used to mount mechanical systems for 3 additional ports. Post #1, pic #1 shows a section of one wall. The one port we have, has been adequate for inspection and cleaning so e'll go with a similar.

We had a long discussion with the tank manufacturer just to get the one on the inboard side. Current recommended practices want the inspection ports on the top of the tank which is not possible on Hobo.
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Old 09-19-2016, 07:52 PM   #55
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Since Bomac is going to be painting the engine, you should see if they would paint it white.

That would be very yachty and unique as well.
We thought about it but with the totally white walls, ceiling and bilges, we're going with the Lehman red. We do have the chrome rocker arm cover that's pretty cool though.
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Old 09-19-2016, 08:08 PM   #56
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We thought about it but with the totally white walls, ceiling and bilges, we're going with the Lehman red. We do have the chrome rocker arm cover that's pretty cool though.
The chrome rocker cover that Lehman offers is a nice touch . I wish Perkins offered the same.
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Old 09-19-2016, 08:24 PM   #57
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The chrome rocker cover that Lehman offers is a nice touch . I wish Perkins offered the same.
Pull it and have it chromed!
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Old 09-20-2016, 07:34 AM   #58
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Originally Posted by Sealife View Post
... I think the hydraulic rolling jack is the way to go though. Just used a 2"x10" board under the oil pan.

Getting everything from ER to cockpit and back is a whole other story, but you shouldnt have that issue. Just drop motor from fork lift onto jack and roll into place. Disclaimer...
I like it. Thanks.
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Old 09-20-2016, 07:42 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sealife View Post
...For the ER tiles, they were in good shape except for two(water damage).

I'll try to save you a few.

...it was a balancing act of time and money...

Yup. The cottage we've rented and boat yards costs, every day is another $100 plus Hobo's not in the water. And project creep?


...who knows what these things will be worth when they are 40 years old!

A lot!!!....
...
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Old 09-20-2016, 07:43 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bshillam View Post
Been here with new fuel tanks. Not in a KK. My list of "since it's out" got longer and longer. But in the end gave everyone better piece of mind knowing there wasn't fuel filling up the ER floor. Removed one of the tanks and it was one of the best calls in boating I have ever made. Don't know how more fuel didn't end up all over the place as it was about the size of a pea on the bottom.
I hope your project goes without any major hitches! Don't hesitate to take on any projects or add to the list one of the best times to do things in the ER as it's free of mechanicals.
Thanks!
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