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Old 06-29-2018, 06:23 AM   #1
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Interior varnish tips?

At some point not too far off I want to use a wipe on satin varnish on my interior. This would seem to match the original finish as far as I can tell. Very thin finish. Trim is tight up against the headliner and I am wondering how others got varnish on without getting it on the headliner. Thought about slipping something between, thin cardboard or something, as a guard but I would think that as soon as it is removed the headliner would lower into the edge of the varnish and soak at least a little bit up into the headliner material. Thought about taping it but not real excited about pulling tape off a 30 year old headliner. Maybe worry about nothing? What have others done? Any other tips to share on this process in general?
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Old 06-29-2018, 06:29 AM   #2
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Greetings,
Mr. fb. How about using wax paper instead of cardboard or wax paper covered cardboard. You could probably leave the wax paper barrier in place until the varnish is dry, then remove the paper which is unlikely to be stuck to the new finish.
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Old 06-29-2018, 11:25 AM   #3
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What RT said. I've also used house wrap like tyvek, cut into 12" strips, tuck it in with a putty knife. The advantage of something like that is that it's tough and you won't tear it trying to tuck it in.
Your finish might be something like Daly's Profin. Nice stuff, rub it on using bronze wool, wipe off the excess. It has some solids so it builds thickness.
What I've also done that works well is rub Profin on with bronze wool then immediately wipe it off, that will help clean the surface and get dirt out of the old finish. Then rub on another coat.
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Old 06-29-2018, 03:53 PM   #4
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I use a good quality semi gloss varnish with a small brush. I have had no trouble avoiding slops onto the headliner. The finish is the same, whether you wipe it on or brush it on, so brush at the edges, wipe the rest.
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Old 06-29-2018, 03:55 PM   #5
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I like the tyvek idea.
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Old 06-29-2018, 04:16 PM   #6
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Koliver, you are a better man than me. I can't imagine being able to hand brush it on that tight against the headliner for the length of run around the cabin, cabinets, etc. Tyvex or wax paper are great ideas. Thanks guys. Any other particular hints for doing the interior? Koliver, I have always found the wipe on finish much thinner than a good varnish. That the main reason I was going to use it on this. Soaks in, no brush strokes, holidays, etc. Looks more like an oil finish than varnish. Maybe I am wrong.
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Old 06-29-2018, 04:54 PM   #7
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Greetings,
Mr. fb. "Any other particular hints for doing the interior?" Yup. Hire someone.


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Old 06-29-2018, 05:01 PM   #8
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Greetings,
Mr. fb. "Any other particular hints for doing the interior?" Yup. Hire someone.


Mr. RTF, hire someone? HIRE someone?!?! this...coming from the King of Do-It-Myself???!!? Sooooo disappointing...!!
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Old 06-30-2018, 12:35 AM   #9
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Koliver, you are a better man than me. I can't imagine being able to hand brush it on that tight against the headliner for the length of run around the cabin, cabinets, etc. Tyvex or wax paper are great ideas. Thanks guys. Any other particular hints for doing the interior? Koliver, I have always found the wipe on finish much thinner than a good varnish. That the main reason I was going to use it on this. Soaks in, no brush strokes, holidays, etc. Looks more like an oil finish than varnish. Maybe I am wrong.
I have used the wipe on polyurethane by Minwax on furniture that I have built, with great results. I wouldn't recommend it on a refinishing of my boat interior, as it will require several coats to get a consistent, good depth of coverage. A good quality semi gloss varnish, (again I use Minwax brand or equivalent), brushed on with a good quality brush is sometimes too thin and needs a second coat, but I get no brush marks.
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Old 06-30-2018, 05:51 AM   #10
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If the boat is a TT , check to see if the finish on the overhead is varnish.

Many used shellac as multiple coats could be put on in a day.
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Old 06-30-2018, 06:31 AM   #11
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If you can find anyone that has some of the old clear sheets used on overhead projectors... I think they are Mylar... they work very well as paint shields... and many other things.

Cut them to the size you need. They usually slip in easily as they are thin yet strong.

They also work great to mix gel coat if you are trying to match a color... lets you mix right on the surface you are trying to match and you can compare the two side by side. Pieces taped on the area after applying the gelcoat give the patch a smooooooth surface and exclude the air for curing.

I would love to find a sourch if anyone knows or finds one as I'm getting low.
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Old 06-30-2018, 08:02 AM   #12
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If you can find anyone that has some of the old clear sheets used on overhead projectors... I think they are Mylar... they work very well as paint shields... and many other things.

I would love to find a sourch if anyone knows or finds one as I'm getting low.
Bacchus, available at Office Depot, Walmart etc. Still in use in my office for various things.

On the type of varnish, as I mentioned, it almost looks like an oiled finish as the grain comes through.. unlike teak trim with multiple costs of "mirror" finish varnish which is why I hesitate to brush on "regular" varnish.
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Old 06-30-2018, 10:17 AM   #13
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Greetings,
Mr. fb. "Sooooo disappointing...!!" I'm not allowed to paint or varnish....


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Old 06-30-2018, 11:16 AM   #14
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Bacchus, available at Office Depot, Walmart etc. Still in use in my office for various things.

On the type of varnish, as I mentioned, it almost looks like an oiled finish as the grain comes through.. unlike teak trim with multiple costs of "mirror" finish varnish which is why I hesitate to brush on "regular" varnish.
Thanks will check those sources.
Mask should work fine rubbing on a finish as well.
I have used tung oil wiped on where I want that subtle satin finish vs gloss varnish.
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Old 06-30-2018, 12:45 PM   #15
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Greetings,
Mr. fb. "Sooooo disappointing...!!" I'm not allowed to paint or varnish....


Me either... at home. Wifey will not let me near a brush. I am allowed to roll on some occasions but not within 3 feet of something that needs a crisp line or no paint at all.
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Old 07-01-2018, 06:12 AM   #16
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Many varnishes are sols that have low gloss.

The traditional method of breaking the gloss was to rub with rotten stone , then clean and wax.
Lee Valley Tools - Hand Rubbing with Pumice and Rottenstone

http://www.leevalley.com/us/shopping...s.aspx?p=41066


(80K04.01+). Pumice powder is an abrasive material used in the application of varnish, shellac or lacquer to produce a fine hand-rubbed finish. It is obtained by ...
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Old 07-06-2018, 06:39 PM   #17
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I see 100 sheet boxes of these clear plastic sheets at the thrift stores regularly. Since those ancient projectors went out of style, most people just discard them.
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Old 07-06-2018, 07:53 PM   #18
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Quote:
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Many varnishes are sols that have low gloss.

The traditional method of breaking the gloss was to rub with rotten stone , then clean and wax.
Lee Valley Tools - Hand Rubbing with Pumice and Rottenstone

www.leevalley.com/us/shopping/Instructions.aspx?p=41066


(80K04.01+). Pumice powder is an abrasive material used in the application of varnish, shellac or lacquer to produce a fine hand-rubbed finish. It is obtained by ...
I did something similar with some reproduction "antique" furniture with an excessively glossy finish. Using furniture grade steel wool to reduce the gloss followed by a good wax furniture polish, giving a nicely mellowed soft gloss finish.
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Old 07-07-2018, 05:17 AM   #19
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"Using furniture grade steel wool to reduce the gloss followed by a good wax furniture polish, giving a nicely mellowed soft gloss finish."



Ultra fine grade is also made in bronze wool, no chance of leaving a tiny rust spot in the finish.
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Old 07-07-2018, 07:49 AM   #20
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I used blue tape or frog tape. Two coats of spar varnish satin applied with a cheese cloth. The important thing is the surface has to look nice and even, color wise, BEFORE you varnish. Varnish does not hide anything. Fine sand paper, 320 or so, can lighten up any stains. Then buff out with 000 bronze wool. Lightly sand the surface and wipe down with mineral spirits. While wet, look at it. That will be what it looks like, more or less. Sand, very lightly, between coats. I did 2 coats and it came out very nice. Very tedious work but worth it.
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