Insulation?

[albin43]

have you put any Insulation in your boat? if so what? where? i was thinking of using evercoats closed cell spray foam under my decks ect.

"Evercoat Sealant and Spray Foam is a multiple use foam that cures to a semi-rigid, closed cell mass. It can be used on cars, boats or houses for caulking, sealing and filling. Can be used for filling boat hull cavities, and sealing electrical outlets and cracks in walls.
Sealant and Spray Foam also insulates window and door frames. It will adhere to metal, fiberglass and wood. Cures in 20 minutes, waterproof, and can be cut, sanded or painted. By the absorption of moisture, this product will expand approximately 50% during curing time. (12 ounces is equal to 24 tubes of caulk)"

what do you all think?


http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=7890&BASE

 

[ancora]

How flammable is it?

 

[FF]

Besides the flammability there is another concern.

"Water proof" does not mean it will not hold large volumes of water.

If you cook or breathe the damage to wood or metal can be severe.

Folks with bus conversions frequently attempted to use similar cheap foam , only to find the shell and supporting structure rusted to scrap in 2 winters.


IT can be done , but it takes pro hot spraying gear (or you only get 1/10th of the R value) and the surface must be fully covered to stop fires.

FF

 

[albin43]

no effect to fiberglass tho correct? and what is pro hot spraying gear ?

 

[Phil Fill]

Rather than insulate we carpeted the whole boat, hung heavy curtains, put up plex a glass on the out side of the windows, canvas, blue, enclosed the stern and pilot house, tarp, blue, the front deck and salon roof, installed additional cabinets/selves, the teak decks are on the dark side, sealed/varnished, and the pilot/solon roof is gray to absorb the sun rays.

In the winter even the sink drains we make sure they are closed/plugged if you can feel the cold air blowing up through, seal the windows/doors and*also the engine vent*fans inlet/funnels.* Basically make a barrier between the cold and the interior living space and cut down the drafts.* As a result the boat is a lot quieter and warmer than when we first bought the stark/shippy/ugly boat.* Oh, I almost forgot one of the biggest heat saver is the quilt we hang over the salon stairs to the pilot house, which we do not heat as heat rises.

*
A couple of winters I did lay down 1 ½ foam insulation, blue side up, on top of the salon roof and deck which probable help the heat escaping through the decks and roof, but the weather kept tearing them up. The canvas/tarps keeps the cold wind/rain/snow off the boat, provide a barrier and absorbs the sun.* Even on over cast days its warm under the blue canvas/tarps and on*clear sunny cold days the boat gets so warm we open the doors to let some cold air in and the diesel heater does not come on until several hours after the sun sets.****

So there are other way beside insulating to keep the boat warm.**


-- Edited by Phil Fill on Thursday 7th of January 2010 10:50:29 AM

 

[skipperdude]

When I first started my refit I used a 2 part foam. I don't recall the brand but it came in a disposable pak. 2 canisters with a hose and spray applicator. It seemed to work well. Even with the Dickenson on all weekend it didn't melt the snow on the roof. By the way the stuff comes with a shelf life and if you can get it close to expiring date *it is half the cost. I was told it is still good a couple of months after that date.* The only problem is you have to spray it on between the carling or rafters. Then saw it off flush. So to apply it the overhead needs to come down

SD*** The brand was by Touch-N-seal* About a buck a board foot

-- Edited by skipperdude on Thursday 7th of January 2010 12:09:16 PM

 

[FF]

The only problem is you have to spray it on between the carling or rafters. Then saw it off flush. So to apply it the overhead needs to come down


The trick here is to allow PLENTY of room for the stuff to expand , otherwise you will not develop even half the rated R value.

The simplest method for trimming the over spray is a "jitterbug" style auto body sander , set up to take a bow style wood saw blade.

It fits over the ribs or structure on either side and produces the least amount of dust.

It wont be working hard so the northern tool chinese junk is fine.Needs air to operate.

FF

 

[sunchaser]

Beware creating moisture traps and eventual mold growth. I would never ever buy a boat that had an aftermarket spray foam job, or even before for that matter. I like P/F's suggestions, do nothing that will compromise the vessel.* There are some wonderful new build insulation products out there, but after build forget about installing*the real stuff. Of course if your boat is a one of and you don't worry about smells or resale or survey or insurance, use the Home Depot spray in stuff. Me, I bought a sweater and Eddie Baur down vest.