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Old 08-24-2015, 11:14 AM   #21
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I took a stab at it about 6 months ago, it was easy and worked great.......leak gone!

All the Capilano manuals I uploaded are now available in the library.
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Old 08-24-2015, 12:02 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rochepoint View Post
I took a stab at it about 6 months ago, it was easy and worked great.......leak gone!
Mine is very difficult to move. How did you get yours apart? I'm concerned that I may need to use a vise and mallet or small sledge with block of wood on the shaft.
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Old 08-24-2015, 05:10 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Capt Kangeroo View Post
If you happen to find a good price on the cylinder let me know, pricing I have seen ranges from $800 to $1000
You may have already pulled the trigger on one, but I just got off the phone with SeaStar and they gave me some information for my specific model.

The rebuild kit is HS5182, as noted in my previous post.

The replacement cylinder is HC5318. If you google that part number, you will find several vendors. I did a very quick search and the best price I found was $572.95 at Teleflex HC5318 Inboard Cylinder-HC5318 Teleflex - Star Marine Depot

Good luck with your repair.

Chris
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Old 08-24-2015, 06:19 PM   #24
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Mine is very difficult to move. How did you get yours apart? I'm concerned that I may need to use a vise and mallet or small sledge with block of wood on the shaft.
Just put the cylinder in a vise(gently) and followed the instruction that came with the kit, it was easy.......
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Old 08-24-2015, 07:00 PM   #25
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If you're going to clamp it in a vise be sure you clamp it on either end of the cylinder. if you clamp in the middle you can easily distort the barrel.
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Old 08-30-2015, 07:44 PM   #26
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So I got the rebuild kit and started to take the cylinder apart. It went well until I got to the part where I had to remove the rod from the cylinder. It was immovable, so I used the mini sledge to get it out. It worked, but I slightly mushroomed the head of the rod. I made sure to hit the side that was not threaded. Everything is back together with the exception of the piece that slides over the mushroomed rod. See pic.

My thought is to grind it down just enough to slide the piece over. I can't see why that would be an issue, but please let me know what I'm missing.Click image for larger version

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Old 08-30-2015, 07:54 PM   #27
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Greetings,
Mr. c. That's probably what I would do if I didn't have access to a metal lathe. Go gently.
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Old 08-31-2015, 06:17 AM   #28
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A file will give better control than a grinding wheel.
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Old 08-31-2015, 08:49 AM   #29
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Hi Chris, It should have been impossible for it to be that tight, what did you find wrong when you got it open? How was the inside of barrel for scratches. If you have not re-installed it yet, and unless it is really easy to get at, I strongly suggest a hydrostat, it could save you having to drain the system to take it right back out again. It's simple to do. Remove hoses & screw a 3/8 pipe plug in one end, and a male air chuck quick disconnect fitting into the other. (also need a 3/8 to 1/4 reducer to attach the disconnect to the cylinder - all available at any hardware cheap) Snap your air compressor hose chuck onto the fitting, drop the cylinder in a bucket of water & pressurize it to a 100psi. This is not foolproof but if it doesn't leak at this point your likely good to go. After numerous times, I finally got mine to pass the hydrostat by honing the barrel with a brake hone on a drill but once the cyl was re-installed it would not hold under the extreme pressure the cylinder operates at.

Thanks for the link, I had not bought one yet. Hope its not their last one because I'm going to buy it
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Old 08-31-2015, 09:41 AM   #30
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Thanks for the feedback.

Capt K, after talking to my mechanic friend about it last night, he had the same concern about it being so tight. It appears that the plastic pieces holding the cup seals had swelled, which caused it to bind. I tried putting the rod through without the seals and had the same issues. Based on this and and fact that it's nearly 30 years old, I'm going to buy a new one. I could probably get this one to work, but the ability to steer the boat is fairly important and I don't want to take any chances. I'm going to finish putting this one back together in the off chance it's needed in the future as it did sort of work before.

Again, I appreciate everyone's feedback.

Chris
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Old 08-31-2015, 03:08 PM   #31
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For future reference to all with Capilano steering systems ( Seastar). There is an option for their grossly over priced cylinder. ($725 to $1000)

I found a replacement for the Capilano BA200-7TMB (ball+swivel) and BA200-7TMC (ball + clevis) that will work if you do not mind drilling 4 holes. The unit is made by Uflex in Florida and appears identical but there are some slight variations in measurements. I spoke with company & they confirmed it will work well but because it is 1" shorter length overall, it will require moving the rear (ball end) mounting bracket forward 1/2" to compensate and drilling 4 new holes to bolt it down. I'm thinking might not even need to do this, you might be able to make up the 1/2" if the clevis or swivel has enough threads that it could be unscrewed enough. The Uflex model# is UC293-I, best price found was boatingsolutions web site at $495.00

Will report back if I decide to try the Uflex.
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Old 09-01-2015, 07:09 AM   #32
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"It appears that the plastic pieces holding the cup seals had swelled,"

Sounds like the wrong fluid was used at some time.
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Old 09-05-2015, 04:01 PM   #33
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I'll second FF comment.

Be carefull to use the right fluid. Ask the mfg..
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