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Old 08-05-2016, 10:37 PM   #21
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I use ablative because I never want to grind the bottom build up or pay to have it blasted.

I use cheap Interlux Fiberglass Bottomcote NT.

For 6 months I am on the move with the longest stay in Mid Florida for a month. The bottom remains shiny the whole time except for a week or so at the end of my month sitting in Ft Pierce, Fl. By day two out of Ft Pierce it is shiny again. Now in August in NJ in a heavy fouling area...it is getting a pretty good beard. Historically I would just let it grow till the end of Sept when I haul, inspect, repair and paint the underwater stuff.

If I was going to take a summer trip, I would jump in and clean the rudder and prop as the bottom would self clean in the first 50 miles or so. If not, I would then clean up the bad spots.

I used to use the best (read most expensive) bottom paint available. When I saw and ran the commercial boats that I work on, using various brands of cheaper stuff...I changed my tune.

I use what works for me and isn't a waste of money....but it is predicated on how the boat is used and overall timing of trips, hauls and sits.
How frequently do you paint your bottom?
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Old 08-06-2016, 07:00 AM   #22
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Every year I throw a coat on when she is hauled.

If she was a new or newer boat I might go with 2 coats and haul every other year, but I have been checking the wear on the cutless and rudder bearings, hoping each year to push them back one more.

But the real test of my bottom paint seems to be, keep her moving. Whether the paint is new or old, if she moves, stays clean.....sits, gets fouled. But I guess no bottom paint at all may result in nearly the same. Expensive stuff seemed to be wasted money based on that model.

One argument awhile back was to use the best in case you had to sit for awhile. Well, mechsnically, if it takes more than a month for just about any in the water job, I picked the wrong yard. If sitting for health reasons, I am probably not on board and would have her hauled snyway, or just cleaned before moving again.
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Old 08-06-2016, 07:28 AM   #23
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"using various brands of cheaper stuff...I changed my tune."

Much of todays "cheap stuff" is the equal of big buck paint from past times.

AKA,,,, Better living thru chemistry.
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Old 08-06-2016, 07:39 AM   #24
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"using various brands of cheaper stuff...I changed my tune."

Much of todays "cheap stuff" is the equal of big buck paint from past times.

AKA,,,, Better living thru chemistry.
plus, my experience level went up tenfold from being an avid weekend boater to liveaboard/commercial operator in the marine trades.

I now have the experience of actually seeing performance or differences in products or methods, instead of marketing hype substantiated by some boating magazine writer who is just passing along the boat show mumbo jumbo.

Whether the new paints are equal or better or whatever...I now can better apply what product I need to get the job done for me....paint or otherwise.
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Old 08-06-2016, 08:33 AM   #25
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If you plan to store on land for any length of time you need to use some form of ablative or you will need to re-paint.
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Old 08-06-2016, 08:39 AM   #26
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If you plan to store on land for any length of time you need to use some form of ablative or you will need to re-paint.
That's true, yet the Fiberglass Bottomcote NT that I use has a blend of technologies so if I pull for more than a few hours (I don't remember exactly), I have to repaint.
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Old 08-06-2016, 08:47 AM   #27
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My paint (Petit SR77) allows 72 hours out of the water. My marina pulls boats out of the water for hurricanes so anything shorter would be a concern and add repainting to the cost of the haulout.


Of course I could just take the boat up the river, tie it to the trees and take my chances but I don't like the odds.


The cost of even the best paint is less than the labor for prep and application so I think it's false economy to cheap out on the paint. I only repaint mine when the diver begins complaining. It's typically lasted about five years with two coats.
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Old 08-06-2016, 10:18 AM   #28
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Every situation is different. Saying "cheaping out" on paint just shows a limited view of what is possible and works/might work for others.

For me...the bottom paint is easily the most expensive part of my haul and from my experience, a complete waste of money when it comes to my boats antifouling. Plus, some of us cant afford to have someone else paint, we do it ourselves....well at least me and a few other I believe have written about doing it themselves.


Cheaping out is not my style all the time, especiall when I know from hard earned experience in the marine industry has taught me otherwise.
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Old 08-06-2016, 10:21 AM   #29
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Every year I throw a coat on when she is hauled.

.
It's all a trade-off. You have less frequent bottom cleaning and use Ablative paint with annual painting. We have very frequent bottom cleaning, use Hard paint and paint every three years.
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Old 08-06-2016, 10:24 AM   #30
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It's all a trade-off. You have less frequent bottom cleaning and use Ablative paint with annual painting. We have very frequent bottom cleaning, use Hard paint and paint every three years.
And after hand grinding the bottom of several boats because of paint buildup....I went with ablative.

Nowhere in my past or foreseeable budgets allow for me to pay someone to do that. And I never want to do it again.

So it is absolutely a tradeoff, unless you are getting the performance you need out of a paint that solves all the issues good enough based on your use.
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Old 08-06-2016, 10:40 AM   #31
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Old 08-06-2016, 10:54 AM   #32
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And after hand grinding the bottom of several boats because of paint buildup....I went with ablative.

Nowhere in my past or foreseeable budgets allow for me to pay someone to do that. And I never want to do it again.
You did several boats?

Slow learner...

I did one boat. Never again.

I figured there were thirteen coats on the bottom, by analyzing the paint chips.
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Old 08-06-2016, 12:03 PM   #33
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And after hand grinding the bottom of several boats because of paint buildup....I went with ablative.

Nowhere in my past or foreseeable budgets allow for me to pay someone to do that. And I never want to do it again.

So it is absolutely a tradeoff, unless you are getting the performance you need out of a paint that solves all the issues good enough based on your use.
No perfect route. However, good care throughout can reduce the grinding aspect you dislike so and we do as well.

One problem too that many have is they didn't get to choose the original bottom paint or what the previous owners did. Changing types is a lot of work and expense.

Also, one's cost varies and frequency of care based on how important top speed and performance is to them. Typically, the faster the boat, the more the owner is concerned with maintaining top speed. I've seen many instances where planing boats were borderline powered and a dirty bottom or props caused huge problems. I know one underpowered surface drive that will barely plane with a dirty bottom and prop and the owner sends passengers to the bow to get it to plane.
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Old 09-08-2016, 12:56 PM   #34
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Cool videos.

Is that normal to have two prop shaft zincs installed? My boat only had one on the shaft, and that's all the diver went back with. I only have one other zinc around the rudder shoe.

Should I have more?

I tried to get the diver to replace the Frigoboat keel cooler zincs but he said he couldn't find the cooler. :-(
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Old 09-08-2016, 01:14 PM   #35
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Cool videos.

Is that normal to have two prop shaft zincs installed? My boat only had one on the shaft, and that's all the diver went back with. I only have one other zinc around the rudder shoe.

Should I have more?
Having two anodes on the shaft is a common arrangement and is cheap insurance. That said, since you are apparently not experiencing any corrosion issues with only one anode on the shaft- if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
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Old 09-08-2016, 01:15 PM   #36
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Thanks!
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