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Old 03-14-2016, 04:02 PM   #1
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How to restore oiled teak?

I have a couple of storage doors and a folding table that does not look very good. Both have had several coats of teak oil through the years. Originally i believe the wood was stained. How do i bring it back to match the rest of the interior?Click image for larger version

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Old 03-14-2016, 05:10 PM   #2
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See "Teak Top Rails - to Cetol or to Varnish".

Let me know if you found it. My wife Chris does a good job and it's her department. She'll be out this afternoon but bacl in the eve.
However in three words it's hydrogen peroxide, apple cider vinigar and most likely bleach .... Just looked it up it's baking soda not bleach.
See post #10 on "refinishing hand rails".
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Old 03-14-2016, 09:03 PM   #3
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That finish looks very red in the picture. Sure it's not mahogany?
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Old 03-14-2016, 09:29 PM   #4
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Whats the fascination of stained timber on boats

Fresh white paint looks great and gives a bigger feel to a small area
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Old 03-14-2016, 10:02 PM   #5
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Greetings,
Mr. g. "Whats the fascination of stained timber on boats" Aesthetics.
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Old 03-15-2016, 09:11 PM   #6
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Sand to reduce the depth of grain and varnish with semi gloss. We refinished most of the teak.
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Old 03-17-2016, 02:29 PM   #7
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How to restore oiled teak?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil Fill View Post
Sand to reduce the depth of grain and varnish with semi gloss. We refinished most of the teak.

Will Cetol work over wood that has been teak oiled?
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Old 03-17-2016, 02:56 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Pgitug View Post
Will Cetol work over wood that has been teak oiled?
I wipe down new teak with Acetone before applying first coat of thinned varnish to lay down the natural oil in teak . Not sure about teak that has oil finish . The cetol guys should be able to answer that .
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Old 03-17-2016, 03:50 PM   #9
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Greetings,
Mr. P. I would caution you about sanding the filler panels before you put a finish on due to the fact the veneer may be paper thin and once perforated is pretty well ruined. You can probably get fairly serious about sanding the solid wood framing and solid planks but as I said, careful with the panels.

Cetol should cover previously oiled material quite well and a wipe down with a solvent (Mr. PM suggests acetone which is fine) wouldn't hurt. You could also use Toluene, paint thinner or varsol as well. A rub down with solvent will also give you a very good indication of what the color will be after finishing whilst the solvent is still wet/moist on the surface. Maybe you won't have to stain...

Only problem I can see is the first pictures seem to be of a very flat finish and Cetol will NOT replicate that. Even the standard Cetol Marine has a gloss AND a tint (orange).
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Old 03-17-2016, 04:02 PM   #10
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Teak is a very oily wood and any oil based coating should be fine.

Marty I would not use acetone on teak.

There is a book broadly considered to be the bible of varnishing written by a woman that really knows her stuff. But she's very old school. So am I. My finishing god recomemds thinning oils and varnishes w kerosene .. says it penetrates much better. I'll look up both books at home tonight .. have them.

I still don't know what Cetol really is so I don't even know if it's oil based. If it is then Cetol can go right over wood that has been "teak oiled". But not w complete assurance as "teak oil" can be anything ..... But I think all teak oil is oil base so the question lies w the Cetol. Never used it. Wildly popular in Alaska on everything but boats.
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Old 03-17-2016, 04:26 PM   #11
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Eric,
When I laminated my cap rails together West System suggested using acetone on new teak before using thickened epoxy . Thats where I got the idea that it might help before varnishing new teak .
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Old 03-17-2016, 05:20 PM   #12
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Will Cetol work over wood that has been teak oiled?
No. The first application of Cetol applied properly requires as much prep as prepping to varnish. And the wood must be bone dry.
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Old 03-17-2016, 08:06 PM   #13
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Marty,
OK good.
For epoxy I can relate.

The two books I refered to earlier are;

1. Brightwork
By Rebecca J. Whittman

2. Skiffs and Schooners
By R. D. Culler
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Old 03-17-2016, 10:15 PM   #14
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Egads, I just sand and BLO. You guys are crazy. Ok, I actually use my friend Bill Daly's SeaFin, but it's basically BLO.


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Old 03-17-2016, 10:39 PM   #15
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I have no idea what BLO is but Daly's SeaFin did'nt do well for me.
I was also disapointed it had build.
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Old 03-17-2016, 11:41 PM   #16
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BLO is boiled linseed oil, the base for all teak "treatments".


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Old 03-18-2016, 02:25 AM   #17
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Cetol is translucent orange paint, originally designed for fences and best restricted to such use.

I still have my bow rails to re-do. The Cetol is kinda cloudy now, except underneath parts that were covered and protected from the sun.

You might try Deks Olje for areas that have a prior oiled finish. Reason being that #1 is oil which is applied in multiple wet-on-wet coats until the wood is saturated. It leaves a matte finish. The #2 gloss coat is applied after #1 has dried for 4 days. But #2 is not a high gloss finish like some insist on eg the Bristol Finish brigade

For the OP, where interior teak has had lots of oil applied over the years and there is a build-up of gummy material, including dust that has stuck to the oil, then you might try Simple Green. It worked well for me. You get back to the natural wood without aggressive stripping. And as RTF said, avoid sanding if any of the areas to be done is veneer. You can then use your preferred teak oil, wiping down properly after it is applied. This give quite pleasing results.
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Old 03-18-2016, 03:13 AM   #18
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Quote:
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Cetol is translucent orange paint, originally designed for fences and best restricted to such use.
Perhaps a trifle harsh, Brian.
I`ve had success cleaning a dull over-waxed antique furniture using mineral turpentine, or as we call it here, turps. It would not remove varnish, but oil and wax should be taken up on a turps dampened rag. I`ve even scraped excess wax out of corners carefully using a screwdriver blade, before cleaning with turps. After cleaning I waxed the surface( no doubt restarting the process).
Howards make a product called Restore a Finish, which can revive an existing finish. Some people find keeping the original finish and patina very important in old furniture. It`s a while since I used it but it did work.
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Old 03-18-2016, 06:34 AM   #19
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Yes, a bit harsh, and somewhat tongue in cheek. I chose not to be subtle in case the point was overlooked!

I have been disappointed in Cetol's durability and performance, and its look, several years after applying it. It comes off easily (a redeeming feature) and I only have about 80 ft, mostly bow rail and toe rail on the foredeck, left to fix. Users beware! It may work for some folks in climates more friendly. I would suggest seeking corroborative support in your local area, from a bunch of people, apply the right amount of salt and make a choice from there.

I've followed your lead. Happy so far, but really too early to judge. Whatever happens I won't blame you - don't you worry about that - as the saying in Queensland used to go.
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Old 03-18-2016, 07:00 AM   #20
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Right from Interlux Cetol Pages preparation instructions

Exterior Weathered Wood or Previously Oiled Wood:
To ensure proper adhesion of Cetol products on weathered or previously oiled wood, use Interlux Premium Teak Restorer with a nylon scuffing pad as per instructions on label. Be sure to rinse the wood well with clean water to remove surface dirt and allow to dry thoroughly.This should be followed by the preparation procedures for New Exterior/Interior Wood.

Seems like the primary ingredient for the restorer which is water based is Oxalic acid. So much other than a clean dry surface, previously oiled wood doesn't seem to be a bad surface to start with as long as it is scuffed enough to present a holding surface.

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