How I Fixed The Bungs on a Teak Deck

[Xsbank]

I was cleaning out my photos and came across these:

Basically, if your bungs are failing and therefore possibly leaking into the core of the decks, they need to be replaced. Another issue is thin decks; after years of teak cleaners and sanding they are thin enough that the screw heads are very close to the surface. If the decks still have some thickness, you can drill the holes deeper and reset the fasteners.

One of the problems with teak decks is the use of stainless fasteners. If you enclose them such that 02 can't get at them, then get them wet, they will bleed a black liquid that will stain the decks. My solution was to change the fasteners to bronze, which is entirely your discretion if you wish to reuse the old screws as you will be re-sealing the holes...

The first picture shows the bung I wish to change. Its not as bad as many of the others were, for sure, this one could have been left. The rest is pretty self-explanatory. I'll post the rest of the photos anon. Oh, that's the small blade on a Swiss Army knife, that's all I used.

 

[Xsbank]

I used a nice Lee Valley drill that was wood-screw-shaped and also had a countersink. I used white waterproof glue to set the screw in and the same glue to set the bung. The final picture is me using a Japanese pull-saw to cut the set bung flush. You can see that no sanding is required (remember you are doing this job because the decks are too thin).

That's it, except for seams, which I did not photograph.

 

[Cigatoo]

Nice tutorial XS. Thank you. What are your thoughts on removing the bung and screw, countersinking as you did, but filling with epoxy using a syringe instead of reinstalling the screw. Then pop in the bung. The epoxy would probably do a fine job of holding the teak in place and provide a better seal.

 

[FF]

"The epoxy would probably do a fine job of holding the teak in place and provide a better seal."


Perhaps but it will destroy the planking when a leak requires its removal.


Dipping the bung in varnish will seal it and they can usually be removed by driving a screw into the center.

 

[firstbase]

I was cleaning out my photos and came across these:

The first picture shows the bung I wish to change. Its not as bad as many of the others were, for sure, this one could have been left.

Have to ask, what was wrong/happening with that bung? Was it leaking? Taking longer to dry than others after wetting? Looks good from my house but my house is a long way from your boat . I do see a slightly thicker surround but...???

 

[sunchaser]

A good Canuck should use Roberts head screws.

 

[Cigatoo]

"The epoxy would probably do a fine job of holding the teak in place and provide a better seal."


Perhaps but it will destroy the planking when a leak requires its removal.


Dipping the bung in varnish will seal it and they can usually be removed by driving a screw into the center.

I wouldn’t put the bung in the epoxy. Wait for epoxy to cure then put in the bung with varnish or glue. Thoughts?

 

[FF]

"Wait for epoxy to cure then put in the bung with varnish or glue. Thoughts?"

Epoxy is a great glue , what is frequently needed is a shim of wood to assist an old screw hole to hold the screw that pulls the wood to the deck .

Any waterproof glue will do , and allow the hold down screw to be removed.


The single kerf saw shown is a great tool , not only for deck work.

 

[Cigatoo]

F.F. So my thought process is to eliminate the screw altogether as water can always find its way around a screw. Fill the whole with epoxy up to the bottom of the countersink. This will pretty much assure no leaks in that hole (at least in my lifetime). When epoxy is cured pound in the bung with a little varnish / glue. Not arguing but looking for another view point. Happy to have you poke holes in my theory.

 

[Larry M]

Xsbank: The only thing I will add is a lot of the plugs I replace come out because of thickness lost in the deck. We still have 3/8” plus deck thickness but when the deck was installed 32 years ago some of the holes for the plugs weren’t very deep. When ever I replace a plug I also redrill/deepen the hole the plug goes into plus use a 3/4” number 8 screw to replace the 1” number 8. You can buy these or an equivalent at most wood working supply stores.

 

[Xsbank]

Those are similar drills to what I used. The local chandlery had a 5 gallon pail of silicon bronze wood screws which I bought by the pound. It’s true that I would have preferred Robertson head but these are all that were available then.

That bung was good but many around it weren’t so I did them all. Did the seams too but no photos.

 

[FF]

"So my thought process is to eliminate the screw altogether as water can always find its way around a screw."

Yes all screws , every screw under the teak coating can be a leak..

The purpose of the screw is to hold the coating of teak tight to the deck , hopefully to be water tight .The goop between the wood pieces is also an attempt to keep water from running under the teak.

Sadly some of the TT I have repaired use wide teak planking with bungs that are for looks only ,only one screw in a dozen, as well as seams that are routed in the plank , again just for looks.

 

[timb]

i may try to save my decks what size drill and countersink did you use ? where is the best place in the us to get the bungs and screws ?

all my bungs are missing where the for-deck starts . i wonder if the floor wore more there or if those bungs were shallower than the rest .

 

[Larry M]

The pictures I posted previously are for 3/8” counter sink that I can adjust the depth. The plugs I make but you can buy them on line, try eBay. They should be less than $0.10/plug for the tapered ones. Our decks were done with number 8 x 1” screws that I replace with number 8 by 3/4”.

Here’s a source for counter sinks although I’ve never used them. They do say you can adjust the depth. I’m sure eBay also carries some.

https://www.irwin.com/tools/drill-bits/wood-countersinks

If a 3/8” hole is buggererd up, I go up to a 1/2” hole, a larger screw and bung.

I have a plug box that keeps things together since bungs are an ongoing maintenance item on Hobo. Once you get going, the replacement goes pretty fast.

 

[timb]

thanks i see you have two kinds of glue .what are they?

 

[Larry M]

One is a caulk for the screws and the other is epoxy for securing the plugs. I prefer to use West System but for one or two plugs, the two part stick is ok but doesn’t cure has hard.

When Hobo was built, they used epoxy or some very hard glue for the plugs. To clean the heads on the existing screws so I can back them out, I have two sharpened small screw drivers. I learned the hard way to take my time getting the old screws out. Once the head is stripped you have to get creative to get the screw out with out damaging the teak.

 

[Larry M]

If you look at the pictures Xsbank posted, you’ll notice all the plugs have the grain aligned with the planks. Thats the way to do it.

Xsbank: Nice looking decks and seams! How old are they?

 

[koliver]

Easting:
I agree.
The purpose of the screw is to hold the deck plank down while the glue it is sitting in cures. Several years on, that glue s well cured and the screw can be discarded. I haven't yet replaced any of the screws that I have removed due to being too tall for the surrounding boards. I have used epoxy or black 291 in the hole and a new bung in 291 or white glue. Seems to work well as some of my repairs of this nature are pushing 20 years old themselves and are working well.

 

[Cigatoo]

Easting:
I agree.
The purpose of the screw is to hold the deck plank down while the glue it is sitting in cures. Several years on, that glue s well cured and the screw can be discarded. I haven't yet replaced any of the screws that I have removed due to being too tall for the surrounding boards. I have used epoxy or black 291 in the hole and a new bung in 291 or white glue. Seems to work well as some of my repairs of this nature are pushing 20 years old themselves and are working well.

 

[Xsbank]

I recall it was GB32 595, which is about 1975. Those decks were done in ‘06/07.

 

[meridian]

What options are available when the heads are stripped? I haven’t had any luck with an easyout?

 

[Larry M]

What options are available when the heads are stripped? I haven’t had any luck with an easyout?

I’ve used the “unscrew-ums” when I’ve broken a head off or when I‘ve stripped one. When I’ve stripped the screw, I’ll drill the head off and use the extractor. This is when the 1/2” plugs come in.

https://wlfuller.com/html/screw_extractor_sets.html

I’ve never tried these but a friend had mentioned them. They looked like they would work if you’ve only stripped the head.

 

[FF]

"What options are available when the heads are stripped? I haven’t had any luck with an easyout?"

I have used a sharp chisel to create a grove in what is left of the screw and then using a brace and my 220lbs of weight and gravity, been able to get most out.

If that doesn't work there are cutters that will closely fit the screw for removal, but then you must do a hole repair.

 

[firstbase]

Xsbank: The only thing I will add is a lot of the plugs I replace come out because of thickness lost in the deck. We still have 3/8” plus deck thickness but when the deck was installed 32 years ago some of the holes for the plugs weren’t very deep. When ever I replace a plug I also redrill/deepen the hole the plug goes into plus use a 3/4” number 8 screw to replace the 1” number 8. You can buy these or an equivalent at most wood working supply stores.

Larry, curious on whether you ground off the drill bits to make them the right length or cut off the shaft of them to do the same? Does the depth stop grip them ok or do you end up with a wobbly bit?

 

[FoxtrotCharlie]

Use a Forstner bit for flat bottom holes

 

[firstbase]

Use a Forstner bit for flat bottom holes

For deck screws wouldn't it be better to have a countersunk/angled hole to better fit the screw head instead of a flat bottom?

 

[Albin]

A good Canuck should use Roberts head screws.

I don't mean to be picky because I am sure this is just a typo but it should be Robertson screws, not "Roberts". Why the rest of the world uses any other kind of screw I'll never know.

 

[timb]

I adjusted the center bit easily but the stop stripped out .
I drilled and measured the teak .it seems to be 3/8 left is that good bad or ugly?i have been thinking they surely had to come off . But I would like to keep the teak if it’s possible to save it.

 

[Benchmark]

"What options are available when the heads are stripped? I haven’t had any luck with an easyout?"

I have used a sharp chisel to create a grove in what is left of the screw and then using a brace and my 220lbs of weight and gravity, been able to get most out.

If that doesn't work there are cutters that will closely fit the screw for removal, but then you must do a hole repair.

Another method when heads are stripped is to drill the center and hammer in a #2 Robertson screwdriver to broach a new socket. Keep hammering to break it loose. You're trying to create the same effect as an impact driver to break it free.

To avoid stripping heads in the first place, carefully clean out the x using a suitable pick or blade....small Swiss Army Knife blade for glue, pick and awl for epoxy. Then...Hammer the screwdriver head hard clockwise to break the screw free, then easy peazy to back out.

I've done thousands this way.....having owned a boat made up of about 200,000 bronze screws held together by a few pieces of mahogany floating around in loose formation for 30 plus years...

 

[FF]

Instead of pushing on a screwdriver like crazy , a better first removal shot can be done with a tool for the job.

These are available in far better quality for more bucks.

Impact Screwdriver Set with Case - Harbor Freight

https://www.harborfreight.com/impact-screwdriver-set-with-case-37530.html
Rating: 3.3 - ‎679 reviews - ‎$8.99 - ‎In stock
Quality tools & low prices. ... Tap the impact screwdriver's handle with a hammer and get quick rotational force necessary for loosening stuck fasteners. Grip is ...