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Old 01-26-2019, 09:18 PM   #21
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What options are available when the heads are stripped? I haven’t had any luck with an easyout?
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Old 01-27-2019, 02:11 PM   #22
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What options are available when the heads are stripped? I haven’t had any luck with an easyout?
I’ve used the “unscrew-ums” when I’ve broken a head off or when I‘ve stripped one. When I’ve stripped the screw, I’ll drill the head off and use the extractor. This is when the 1/2” plugs come in.

https://wlfuller.com/html/screw_extractor_sets.html

I’ve never tried these but a friend had mentioned them. They looked like they would work if you’ve only stripped the head.
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Old 01-28-2019, 07:15 AM   #23
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"What options are available when the heads are stripped? I haven’t had any luck with an easyout?"

I have used a sharp chisel to create a grove in what is left of the screw and then using a brace and my 220lbs of weight and gravity, been able to get most out.

If that doesn't work there are cutters that will closely fit the screw for removal, but then you must do a hole repair.
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Old 02-01-2019, 04:53 PM   #24
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Xsbank: The only thing I will add is a lot of the plugs I replace come out because of thickness lost in the deck. We still have 3/8” plus deck thickness but when the deck was installed 32 years ago some of the holes for the plugs weren’t very deep. When ever I replace a plug I also redrill/deepen the hole the plug goes into plus use a 3/4” number 8 screw to replace the 1” number 8. You can buy these or an equivalent at most wood working supply stores.
Larry, curious on whether you ground off the drill bits to make them the right length or cut off the shaft of them to do the same? Does the depth stop grip them ok or do you end up with a wobbly bit?
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Old 02-01-2019, 04:56 PM   #25
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Use a Forstner bit for flat bottom holes
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Old 02-01-2019, 05:52 PM   #26
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Use a Forstner bit for flat bottom holes
For deck screws wouldn't it be better to have a countersunk/angled hole to better fit the screw head instead of a flat bottom?
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Old 02-01-2019, 09:52 PM   #27
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A good Canuck should use Roberts head screws.
I don't mean to be picky because I am sure this is just a typo but it should be Robertson screws, not "Roberts". Why the rest of the world uses any other kind of screw I'll never know.
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Old 02-01-2019, 10:00 PM   #28
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I adjusted the center bit easily but the stop stripped out .
I drilled and measured the teak .it seems to be 3/8 left is that good bad or ugly?i have been thinking they surely had to come off . But I would like to keep the teak if it’s possible to save it.
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Old 02-02-2019, 04:29 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FF View Post
"What options are available when the heads are stripped? I haven’t had any luck with an easyout?"

I have used a sharp chisel to create a grove in what is left of the screw and then using a brace and my 220lbs of weight and gravity, been able to get most out.

If that doesn't work there are cutters that will closely fit the screw for removal, but then you must do a hole repair.
Another method when heads are stripped is to drill the center and hammer in a #2 Robertson screwdriver to broach a new socket. Keep hammering to break it loose. You're trying to create the same effect as an impact driver to break it free.

To avoid stripping heads in the first place, carefully clean out the x using a suitable pick or blade....small Swiss Army Knife blade for glue, pick and awl for epoxy. Then...Hammer the screwdriver head hard clockwise to break the screw free, then easy peazy to back out.

I've done thousands this way.....having owned a boat made up of about 200,000 bronze screws held together by a few pieces of mahogany floating around in loose formation for 30 plus years...
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Old 02-02-2019, 06:15 AM   #30
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Instead of pushing on a screwdriver like crazy , a better first removal shot can be done with a tool for the job.

These are available in far better quality for more bucks.

Impact Screwdriver Set with Case - Harbor Freight

https://www.harborfreight.com/impact-screwdriver-set-with-case-37530.html
Rating: 3.3 - ‎679 reviews - ‎$8.99 - ‎In stock
Quality tools & low prices. ... Tap the impact screwdriver's handle with a hammer and get quick rotational force necessary for loosening stuck fasteners. Grip is ...
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Old 02-02-2019, 07:08 AM   #31
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Larry, curious on whether you ground off the drill bits to make them the right length or cut off the shaft of them to do the same? Does the depth stop grip them ok or do you end up with a wobbly bit?
The drill bit length is adjustable on both of the counter sinks with Allen screws. The depth stop is also adjustable. I use it only as a safety stop though. If the stop hits the deck it will mar the teak. I’ve drilled using a standard 3/8” quality drill bit with a stop and found I had little depth control and I didn’t get a clean hole.

This is my current 3 piece favorite. The counter sink and stop both have two allen screws so it is assembled straight and drills with no wobble.
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Old 02-02-2019, 07:18 AM   #32
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I adjusted the center bit easily but the stop stripped out .
I drilled and measured the teak .it seems to be 3/8 left is that good bad or ugly?i have been thinking they surely had to come off . But I would like to keep the teak if it’s possible to save it.
You should be good. I was taught that 3/8” of teak for decks is considered serviceable. That depth allows for a screw to be counter sunk to hold the plank with enough wood left over to secure a plug plus enough thickness for the caulk between the planks.
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Old 02-04-2019, 06:36 AM   #33
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If the teak deck gets too thin, and you like it anyway, why not nail it with either bronze or stainless nails or simply let the screw be as they are, and forget about re-plugging the holes, just make the screws flush with the wood surface. Be like your deck at the house being nailed or screwed down. People like what others tell them to like, like nicely bunged teak wood decking..which is hugely expensive and lots of maintenance and eventually fails, destroying the underlying structures.. Last year I pulled up all the teak wood and found the entire under structure totally rotten. After repairing it, I have not put the teak back on. I actually think brown carpet would be better than teak.

My lower teak deck is fine as there is no plywood under it, simply teak planks on top of 2x4 wood.Yeah it leaks a little but so what, the water falls in to the Lazarette
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