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Old 12-24-2013, 08:34 AM   #21
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For you folks that have Cummins B series engines, the hoses that connect the aftercooler to the tranny cooler are located directly above the air intake. Get the best clamps money can buy for these hoses. Don't ask how I know.
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Old 12-24-2013, 08:54 AM   #22
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I have come across probably hundreds or thousands of hoses with broken or loose clamps that never leaked a drop...makes you wonder....
It provides job security for surveyors.
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Old 12-24-2013, 11:25 AM   #23
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I use this stuff on my hoses. Works really good on exhaust hoses that tend to get warm.
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Old 12-24-2013, 11:47 AM   #24
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I use this stuff on my hoses. Works really good on exhaust hoses that tend to get warm.
I think it says "copper formula" on the label...people need to be careful using that anywhere near aluminum parts on an engine or any other system that may see salt water.

Lot's of anti-seize compounds actually cause more problems than they help on boats if you aren't careful....but I bet this stuff is fine and works well on hoses going to iron or steel.
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Old 12-24-2013, 02:27 PM   #25
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Recommend Forspar Lanacote. Helps seal and facilites hose removal by re-lubricating the connection when a bit of heat (hair dryer with patience or less with heat gun) is applied.
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Old 12-24-2013, 02:31 PM   #26
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SnapOn makes a set too. I know, because a buddy of mine is a SnapOn dealer. One day he asked to borrow a tool and dropped it in the water. The closest thing he had to a replacement was a set of picks like the ones shown on Amazon. I now lend him any tool he asks for
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Old 12-24-2013, 02:54 PM   #27
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At your local big box house store they have screwdrivers that have inserts to change from small straight or Philips driver. These handles with the bits out will fit most hex head hose clamps and are far better for tightening or adjusting . Best $5.00 you will ever spend if the hose clamps are in a hard to reach spot.
5/16" nut driver is the tool that emulates. Every boater should have one as it takes the busted knuckles out of hose clamp maintenance.

There's also a T-handle torque wrench available at any plumbing supply house that torques to 60 inch pounds(5 foot pounds). These are great if you are a tool junkie but not very practical if only used on the boat


Edit: Sorry Poach, just saw your post following FF's.
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Old 12-24-2013, 03:00 PM   #28
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5/16" nut driver is the tool that emulates. Every boater should have one as it takes the busted knuckles out of hose clamp maintenance.

There's also a T-handle torque wrench available at any plumbing supply house that torques to 60 inch pounds(5 foot pounds). These are great if you are a tool junkie but not very practical if only used on the boat


Edit: Sorry Poach, just saw your post following FF's.

That's allright Craig. I didn't quote the 5/16"--it seem some are sensitive about size
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Old 12-26-2013, 08:09 AM   #29
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Huh…I've never managed to get a hose on the boat off yet and be able to put it back on. I've had to cut it to free it every time.
When you put the new one on, a thin coat of clear silicone caulk will help seal any imperfections, yet make the hose easy to remove later. When I bought my boat, the PO had done this, and it was amazingly easy to remove every hose.
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Old 12-26-2013, 11:52 AM   #30
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Don, many years ago I had a similar experience with the non-perforated clamps. I sold some to a friend. He couldn't tighten them either. I never did figure out why they wouldn't tighten. I've sold thousands of them since, without a problem. I figure if they can be tightened, they will stay tight.

Another type of clamp I'm starting to sell are constant tension clamps. They have a spring mechanism built in that keeps the clamping pressure constant as the hose expands and contracts with heat. Similar to this.

I don't know much about them, but customers were asking for them, so we put them in stock.
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Old 12-26-2013, 01:14 PM   #31
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My Cummins is covered with them. Not knowing any better I assumed they were spec'd by Cummins...
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Old 12-26-2013, 01:20 PM   #32
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When you put the new one on, a thin coat of clear silicone caulk will help seal any imperfections, yet make the hose easy to remove later. When I bought my boat, the PO had done this, and it was amazingly easy to remove every hose.
I guess the caulk doesn't stick to metal but forms a seal. Would you use silicone caulk on fuel lines?
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Old 12-26-2013, 03:09 PM   #33
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I guess the caulk doesn't stick to metal but forms a seal. Would you use silicone caulk on fuel lines?
I wouldn't. I rebuilt a fuel system recently where the owner had used silicone at the hose connections. Little pieces of cured silicone got into the fuel system and found their way into the inlet of the Racors reducing the flow enough that you could still bleed the system but not run it fully loaded. We replaced all the hose from the tank to the engine filters.
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Old 12-26-2013, 03:33 PM   #34
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Thanks Larry good to know.
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Old 12-26-2013, 04:02 PM   #35
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There is a tool called a "hose pick" that will make it easy to remove a hose without damaging it. It really works well. I have used them for several years.
My son is an auto mechaninc and he uses them all the time. I was watching him once a few years a said I have to have one of those.
They come in various sizes.

Here's a set at Amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-KDT...ords=hose+pick

I think Craftsman sells a 4 piece set for not much money. If you use one once you will never use a screwdriver again.

Those hose picks come in handy for a multitude of uses.
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Old 01-01-2014, 09:04 AM   #36
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At your local big box house store they have screwdrivers that have inserts to change from small straight or Philips driver.

These handles with the bits out will fit most hex head hose clamps and are far better for tightening or adjusting .

Best $5.00 you will ever spend if the hose clamps are in a hard to reach spot.
You can also buy a hex driver to fit your hose clamp nuts. Standard or "stubby". Sockets from your tool box will work as well.
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Old 01-01-2014, 09:13 AM   #37
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1) You don't have to buy a set of picks. You can buy a "hose clamp removal tool" at most places that sell auto parts or tools.

2) You can buy "radiator hose grease" that will allow you to put a hose on a fitting more easily and remove it more easily in the future. It won't damage the rubber like dish soap and other concoctions might.

3) A hose to fitting connection that relies on caulk has a problem that should be corrected. If the hose and fitting are matched and the proper clamps are used, it doesn't need caulk to seal.
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Old 01-01-2014, 01:45 PM   #38
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I thought my raw water intake hose for the genset was looking like it needed replacing. I started to undo the hose clamp and the hose fell off the pipe nipple on the Groco! PO put a 1" hose on a 1/2" nipple! One of the nipples was wrapped in electrical tape, which was unravelling and streaming towards the genset. I only have 2 openings in the bottom of my hull, the genset intake and the fire pump and besides ruining the genset, this idiotic installation might have cost me the entire boat.

In my opinion, I have now seen the most moronic thing done on a boat.
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Old 01-01-2014, 03:40 PM   #39
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In my opinion, I have now seen the most moronic thing done on a boat.
Actually hard to believe it worked. Agreed very moronic.

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Old 01-01-2014, 04:02 PM   #40
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In my opinion, I have now seen the most moronic thing done on a boat.
I'm pretty sure you'll find a few more competitors for the "most moronic" title.

Some people shift into another gear when they start working on boats.
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