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Old 03-16-2015, 11:46 AM   #21
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"Do they ever connect more than one tank to a deck pumpout because I only have one deck pumpout fitting,"

Sure , but then there will be a 3 way valve to close off the empty tank and suck out the other.

Big PIA , but you will need to use a marking pen to keep track and do a drawing of your tank plumbing realty.

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Old 03-16-2015, 02:39 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Steve View Post
I'd pull off the top white hose going into the back tank (have a bucket or catch basin ready) maybe you will be able to look inside with a flashlight to see if it is full. Try to get a smaller suction hose down in there to pump it out into buckets.
How big is the fwd tank maybe you can live with it alone and eliminate the aft, possibly leaking, one. Leave it in place, or take it out, replace it later or not.
Why are some of the hoses wrapped in what looks like saran wrap? maybe that is where the odor is coming from?
Good luck with the project!
The saran wrap? Some one thought it was a good idea to leave the plastic wrapping on all the hoses in the boat! UH!!!

Nordvind | 1987 36' Nova | Volvo TMD41A
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Old 03-16-2015, 03:34 PM   #23
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I see, I though maybe a prevouis owner might have added it.
Steve W.
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Old 03-16-2015, 04:01 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by tegdesign View Post
The saran wrap? Some one thought it was a good idea to leave the plastic wrapping on all the hoses in the boat! UH!!!
Saran Wrap is imprevious to odor. So it's a legitimate temporary fix to an odor problem from a permeated sanitation hose. Peggie Hall often recommended wrapping a hose or section of a hose in response to forum participants asking how to deal with odor problems.

But, as she always stressed, it is NOT a permanent fix and should never be thought of as such. The only permanent fix is to replace the hose. Or replace the hose run with something that isn't hose, namely PVC tubing.

The plumbing run from our aft toilet to our aft holding tank by its nature holds waste in the aft end of the run before it goes up and into the tank. The original hose had permeated and was a problem, located as it is under the aft berth.

So we replaced the aft run with a length of PVC, which will never permeate. For the flexible bend from the lower pipe to the upper pipe that goes to the holding tank we reseached and found the most permeation-reisstant hose on the market and used that. It won't remain odor free forever but it should be okay for a number of years.

PVC plumbing must be protected from vibration or it will eventually crack. So the connections at each end of a PVC run should be a section of hose to "suspend" the PVC run. In a well-designed plumbing run, the sections that are hose will never be a collection point for effluent. If the hose is essentially empty other than when effluent is passing though it, it will be a long, long time before odor permeation becomes a problem.
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Old 03-16-2015, 07:01 PM   #25
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Get out the saw and get that stuff out of there, that is what I did. Have not been to a pump put in 2 years! Forward head is a Type I and the aft head is a composting head. Our boat smells much better now.

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Old 03-16-2015, 07:52 PM   #26
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First thing I did after reading through many posts here was to buy Peggys book

then I took out every line hose vent pump and replaced in the entire system

then after fixing each toilet 3-4 times in a year I replaced them

so now the only thing old in my system is the tank and that is on the list

the greasy smell in the bilge I have become a expert and cleaning the PO cam by the other day and asked how do you make your boat smell so good

made me feel great
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Old 03-26-2015, 11:45 AM   #27
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I have a Heritage East 44 with a 300 gallon FW tank under the bed in the aft and another 75 Gallon FW tank about two feet forward of my waste tank - similar to your picture. I also bought the boat form someone who did not empty the tank and it would not empty fully after sitting mostly full for three years. It took a very helpful dockhand several hours a day for several days to fill with fresh water and pump out - one day he did it 36 times over several hours. Eventually the water flushing worked to clear the solidified goop from the tank and it now empties completely. As to having only a macerator on the tank to empty I know that here, in the Chesapeake, you would get a several thousand dollar fine each time you were boarded as there is no way to show that the waste does not go overboard. Every time I have been on a boat that was boarded, usually for routine checks, they check the bilge for oil, head "y" valves, and flares. They usually find something as most folks don't update flares often enough or change oil pads often enough.
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Old 03-27-2015, 05:47 AM   #28
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"Eventually the water flushing worked to clear the solidified goop from the tank"

The fast way to do this is to access the tank fill and shove in 30 lbs of ice cubes and go for a ride.

The more wakes you find , the quicker the fix.
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Old 03-27-2015, 12:05 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by tegdesign View Post
The saran wrap? Some one thought it was a good idea to leave the plastic wrapping on all the hoses in the boat! UH!!!
Saran Wrap has long been known to be a very effective "bandaid" on stinky hoses. ONLY Saran, no other brand, will work. In fact, I used it on my own boat...I'd replaced the entire system including all the hoses less than 3 months earlier on a boat I was restoring ...incredibly, the hoses had already permeated. Rather than REdoing work when a temporary solution was available and so much more needed to be done, I trotted over to the convenience store across the road from the YC and bought a roll of Saran Wrap...secured it with eclectrical tape. It turned out to be almost a year before I got around to re-hosing...not a trace of odor meanwhile...which is the only reason I didn't do it sooner. Saran Wrap can make it possible to put off replacing hoses till the weather cools off instead of having to do it in the heat of the summer to make being aboard bearable.

As I recall, per Peggie, the correct way to perform that test is to use a hot wet rag/towel, place it on the hose and let it stay there overnight.

Not quite, Bill...Hot wet rag only needs to remain on the hose till it cools. Clean off a section of hose--to eliminate odor from another source that's attached itself to the outside of the hose...and use a CLEAN rag for each piece of hose tested.
2016 Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since '87.
"The NEW Get Rid of Boat Odors"
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Old 03-28-2015, 01:36 PM   #30
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I've spent countless hours cleaning and crawling around in my bilge, trying to determine where each hose went and where each wire went. There really is no other choice, you have to know where everything goes or you'll never be able to troubleshoot anything. It's a nasty, time consuming job and sometimes you have to do surgery on your boat to get things right. Once you've found all the problems and fixed them you'll be a lot more confident in your boat. Dirty, tired and frustrated but more confident in your boat!

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bilge, holding tank, macerator, sanitation, smell

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