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Old 10-16-2016, 09:59 AM   #21
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There are reasons for a carbon filter in waste vent lines.

And for all those with hot rags, it appears there must be problems or you would not be looking its location. Time to consider getting rid of smelly hoses; PVC pipe is permanent, mechanically strong (beware of fittings though) and stink proof.
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Old 10-16-2016, 02:36 PM   #22
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On same topic .... We have two heads; forward is non exotic electric, aft head is a Jabsco manual. We have all new hoses & stainless holding tank.
When we use the forward head, all is fine, when we use the aft manual head, some odor appears towards the forward end of the boat. Of note: the forward head ( bowl ) drains empty ( not holding any water ) which makes me think that the fresh water after the flush just gravity drains into the holding tank. Is it possible that when I replaced the hoses, I should have left a loop of sorts to keep some water in this hose as a trap for vapor instead of running it sloped straight down into the tank ( the tank is about 12" below level of the forward head ) or is there something else I should be looking for . ? maybe install a check valve in the 1 1/2" discharge line ?

Any thoughts on this ... ? FB
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Old 10-16-2016, 04:36 PM   #23
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Except for the all-china "thrones" with multiple flush options, marine toilets aren't designed to hold water, so the bowl draining into a tank that's below the toilet is a good thing. As for whether you should install a check valve in the toilet discharge, there should already be one in both toilets...it's the li'l cup-shaped gizmo with slit in the bottom and "lips" on the outside called the "joker valve." It should be replaced at least every two years in an electric toilet, every year in a manual toilet.

However, if odor were backing up into the bowl from the tank, you'd smell it coming into the bowl...that head compartment would stink. But that's not happening. Your only problem is odor "near the forward end of the boat" when the aft toilet is flushed. That tells me that the aft toilet is pushing odor out of something on its way to the tank. There are enough possible "somethings" that it's gonna take some conversation for me to figure out what that particular "something" is. Send me a PM with your email address and we can go from there to arrive at mutually agreeable day/approx time to spend about 30 minutes on the phone.

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Old 10-16-2016, 04:45 PM   #24
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Except for the all-china "thrones" with multiple flush options, marine toilets aren't designed to hold water, so the bowl draining into a tank that's below the toilet is a good thing. As for whether you should install a check valve in the toilet discharge, there should already be one in both toilets...it's the li'l cup-shaped gizmo with slit in the bottom and "lips" on the outside called the "joker valve." It should be replaced at least every two years in an electric toilet, every year in a manual toilet.

However, if odor were backing up into the bowl from the tank, you'd smell it coming into the bowl...that head compartment would stink. But that's not happening. Your only problem is odor "near the forward end of the boat" when the aft toilet is flushed. That tells me that the aft toilet is pushing odor out of something on its way to the tank. There are enough possible "somethings" that it's gonna take some conversation for me to figure out what that particular "something" is. Send me a PM with your email address and we can go from there to arrive at mutually agreeable day/approx time to spend about 30 minutes on the phone.

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Been there, done that. I purchased a plastic water filter assembly that accommodates a charcoal filter. Next put that in series with the vent hose. Prior to adding the charcoal filter, the stench would knock your socks off.

I made my own assembly because WestMarine's filter for this application was almost $100 and a throw away at that. Didn't allow one to change the charcoal filter contained in the product.
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Old 10-16-2016, 06:46 PM   #25
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Old 10-16-2016, 07:51 PM   #26
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Old 10-16-2016, 10:07 PM   #27
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Been there, done that. I purchased a plastic water filter assembly that accommodates a charcoal filter. Next put that in series with the vent hose. Prior to adding the charcoal filter, the stench would knock your socks off.

So how would a vent line filter eliminate an odor that's inside the boat, not out the vent?
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Old 10-16-2016, 10:47 PM   #28
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Peggy--

The ONLY thing I have found to eliminate inside stink is PVC pipe. Used it in my old sailboat and also in my Silverton 40 with great results. The vent filter will only improve the conditions that neighbors contend with every time a toilet is flushed which of course makes sense. Best of all for PVC is that it is much less expensive than crappy hoses.

I also used electrical PVC 90 degree sweeps for many corners to provide a gentle transition rather than typical elbows. The sweeps also offer greater strength than an normal elbow. And yes, many will say that electrical PVC sweeps should not be used but remember, we are fixing boats not covered by the plumbing code.
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Old 11-15-2016, 04:20 PM   #29
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I found the marine head toilet odor us usually caused by the soup that forms on the salt water feed line to the toiletcwater inlet. You will see a blackish water firstxenter the bowl when flushed. Especially if unused for a long time. Be sure to give each toilets long flush when you first enter the boat. Also add a 2 inch pipe "T" manifold to the feed hose with a screw cap. Insert chlorine tablets. This will allow some chlorinated feed water to back drain into the feed line. These lines are especially problematic if they have a long level feed run. You can also buy biocide treated feed hose. Its expensive.
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Old 11-15-2016, 05:28 PM   #30
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Also add a 2 inch pipe "T" manifold to the feed hose with a screw cap. Insert chlorine tablets. This will allow some chlorinated feed water to back drain into the feed line.

Very bad idea! Chlorine is highly corrosive and damaging to the rubber parts in toilet pumps...it also breaks down hose resistance to odor permeation.

These lines are especially problematic if they have a long level feed run.

They shouldn't have long runs. If the inlet thru-hull is a long way from the toilet, relocate or add a thru-hull that's close to the head.

One solution might be to plumb the head sink drain and toilet intake line to use the same thru-hull. (No reason why the sink can't drain below the waterline...it does on most sailboats). That would provide a means of flushing all the sea water out of the entire system--inlet line, pump, channel in the rim of the bow AND the toilet discharge line--with clean fresh water before the boat will sit. Just close the seacock and fill the sink with clean water...flush the toilet. Because the seacock is closed the toilet will pull the water out of the sink rinsing the sea water out of the whole system...without the need for any harmful chlorine.

Or...replace your toilet with one designed to use onboard pressurized fresh water. So-called "conversion" kits (everything but the bowl) are readily available and reasonably priced.

You can also buy biocide treated feed hose. Its expensive.

Not sure what hose you're referring to.... Trident 101/102 is a double walled sanitation hose has a biocide in the rubber formula, and very reasonably priced--$7-8/ft....but it's only available in 1" and 1.5" for use as toilet and tank discharge hoses...toilet inlet hoses are 3/4". I'm not aware of any biocide treated hoses that size.
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Old 11-15-2016, 05:57 PM   #31
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Peggy--The ONLY thing I have found to eliminate inside stink is PVC pipe..

Which is fine for long straight runs. Not so great in systems that have a lot of bends because everyone requires an inline radius fitting...and every break is a potential leak. Plus, if you really want to do it right, every connection to anything "fixed" (toilet, tank, thru-hull) should be soft-coupled with enough hose to protect the pipe from flex and shock.

There are hoses today that are truly impervious to odor permeation...Trident 101/102 has been on the market for about 20 years without a single reported odor permeation failure...and is reasonably priced $7-8/ft. It just has one drawback: it's almost as stiff as hard pipe...making it a good choice only for long straight runs. Raritan SaniFlex hose has been on the market for about 7 years now, also without a single reported odor permeation failure. It can make a U-turn as tight as a bobby pin without kinking...but it too has a drawback: the price...about $14/ft.

The vent filter will only improve the conditions that neighbors contend with every time a toilet is flushed which of course makes sense.

Some simple mods to the tank vent to allow it to provide the air exchange needed to create the aerobic conditions that prevent odor would eliminate the need for the filter...and those mods can be made to most systems for less than the cost of the materials you use to cobble up your homemade version.

Best of all for PVC is that it is much less expensive than crappy hoses.

Isn't that kinda like saying that a canoe is cheaper than a crappy boat? We do get what we pay for!

And yes, many will say that electrical PVC sweeps should not be used...

I don't recall ever hearing that.

Have a nice day!
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Old 11-15-2016, 06:19 PM   #32
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Peggy-- There are those---self included who prefer an inexpensive, durable, stink free system to get waste from a raw or fresh water marine head to a holding tank. And just because a problem's solution is inexpensive does not relate it to a substandard category. To say "we do get what we pay for" may be true although many times we can pay far less and still have the desired outcome.
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Old 11-15-2016, 08:27 PM   #33
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I was only referring to the hoses you'd previously used...you were the one who called 'em "cheap."
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Old 11-15-2016, 09:09 PM   #34
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I was only referring to the hoses you'd previously used...you were the one who called 'em "cheap."


No Peggy, it was not I who called hoses "cheap", I would not have even called them inexpensive which is the word I most likely would have used in any case.

I referred to them as "smelly" in post #21, "crappy" in post #28. My previous post, #32, I was referring to the benefits of using PVC. And as to inexpensive (cheap), I would never think nor claim Tridant's $7-8/ foot or Samiflex's $14/foot as inexpensive.

Now PVC! That is entirely a different material AND INEXPENSIVE at $0.67/foot (Lowes) for 1 1/2" schedule 40. So if I required about 25 feet of PVC to replace the old crappy poo poo hoses with pipe, my pipe cost would be in the range of $17 compared to $200 for Trident's product that you recommend.

My change over is long done but if I were now doing it now I would save enough to take both my wife and you and your husband out to a decent dinner and have money left over. See the advantages of paying less for a better product?
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