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Old 06-22-2016, 11:51 AM   #21
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Are you really sure that the deposit is not just salt??
You said it tastes like salt!!
The most likely culprit is salt encrusted over time in the track.
The best way to remove it is simply irrigating with hot water and inserting a fine blade down the sides of the track.
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Old 06-22-2016, 09:33 PM   #22
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I use cleaner Bonderite C-IC Aero aka Turco Alumaprep 33 followed by Bonderite M-CR 1001 Alodine 101 conversion coating. Once treated no oxidation. Aviation guys use it.
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Old 06-23-2016, 03:13 PM   #23
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I feel your pain. One of the hardest, most frustrating jobs on the refit of my previous money pit (MKI Mainship 34, 1982) was just what you are facing.

Try this, get a small flat blade screwdriver with a large handle, medium length shaft. Bend the tip to a 90, perhaps cant it a bit for leverage for the angle you will be working. Make your tool narrow enough to fit in the channel. Make the end sharp but not needle end. Use narrow wire brush on your drill/grinder, medium stiff. Use PB blaster, WD40 or similar to soften up. Hook nose needle nose pliers. Dental mirror and dental tools can also help. Swear regularly as you fight this stuff. It will come out but it will fight you every step of the way. Took me 4 long days for 4 Windows. Lot if it came out in pieces, ripped strips and chunks. Not fun

Note. You must get ALL of it out of the channel or the new will not slide in.
custom screwdriver
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Old 06-24-2016, 08:48 AM   #24
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Greetings,
I got so frustrated chipping, I put it aside for a couple of days. I felt I was doing more damage to the aluminum than necessary, soooo....I think, after a bit of prep work, I'll try to set up something to run some fresh water through the channel over an extended period of time to attempt to either soften the deposit or wash it away. Thanks Mr. C. (post #21.)
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Old 06-24-2016, 09:14 AM   #25
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RTF once mechanically cleaned as best u can, I use what the aviation guys use, it works to keep alum clean/ stable (no oxidation) for year or more. Cleaner Bonderite C-IC 33 Aero known as Turco Alumiprep 33. Then wash dry thoroughly. Apply conversion coating Bonderite M-CR 1001 Aero known as Alodine 1001. Capt Bill.
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Old 06-24-2016, 01:32 PM   #26
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Greetings,
Mr. bg. Thanks for the suggestions although I think the Bonderite materials may be overkill for the use we will put the boat. The deposits most definitely resulted from use in salt water and subsequent poor maintenance. She will be used exclusively in fresh water and is now in the care of someone who will keep a close eye on developing problems...




Report to follow...
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Old 06-25-2016, 02:07 AM   #27
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I've just started ressurection on my 77 MS 34. Boat has been under shrinkwrap for the last two years in the shipyard by the sea. Windows are corroded open and fuzzy strip is flaking away. I've started using a flat blade screwdriver with sand paper on the end. Slow going but it's slowly removing the corrosion. I was thinking of trying a brass wire wheel laid into the channel once i can get the sliding windows fully open. Any ideas on where i might find the fuzzy strip?
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Old 06-25-2016, 07:10 AM   #28
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Greetings,
Mr. A. I am sourcing MY fuzzy strips from a supplier who deals exclusively with Penn Yan parts so the likelihood of MY strips fitting your grooves are slim but if you have the dimensions and they are the same, I can pass on my source. I'm sure other members have better sources. Take heart. There will be fuzz at the end of the channel.
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Old 06-25-2016, 09:06 AM   #29
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I've just started ressurection on my 77 MS 34. Boat has been under shrinkwrap for the last two years in the shipyard by the sea. Windows are corroded open and fuzzy strip is flaking away. I've started using a flat blade screwdriver with sand paper on the end. Slow going but it's slowly removing the corrosion. I was thinking of trying a brass wire wheel laid into the channel once i can get the sliding windows fully open. Any ideas on where i might find the fuzzy strip?
I have done an 82. May the boat gods smile on you. Join Mainship Owners Group, I think there is more than one. The Yahoo site is VERY good and you will find that many have plowed ground you are approching. Handy search option, you will find suppliers, vendors, techniques, traps to avoid and so on. A wealth of information once you filter out the questions from people that do not know what a screw driver is.

On your windows...2 2 by 4s. Hard wood, not pine. Trim one long enough to angle in the window opening. Mild angle. The second use against the base of the first and hammer #2 into #1 widening the gap so you can lift the glass out of the opening. I had to this a bunch of times. If they will not slide, saturate with wd40 or similiar to free em up then remove the glass.n then have fun!

Hint, with water intrusion on bridge, try a vacumm on low end and 1/2 lb of nitrogen on high end. Get the water out then you can seal and inject the soft spots.

I have a 4 blade fresh RH 21x21- 1 1/2 shaft prop. Will need a 1/8 bushing for your 1 3/8" shaft. I have no need for this prop.
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Old 06-25-2016, 09:28 AM   #30
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Did you try the broken hacksaw blade? Hold it in vice grips.
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Old 06-25-2016, 03:55 PM   #31
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I've just started ressurection on my 77 MS 34. Boat has been under shrinkwrap for the last two years in the shipyard by the sea. Windows are corroded open and fuzzy strip is flaking away. I've started using a flat blade screwdriver with sand paper on the end. Slow going but it's slowly removing the corrosion. I was thinking of trying a brass wire wheel laid into the channel once i can get the sliding windows fully open. Any ideas on where i might find the fuzzy strip?
C.R. laurance makes the window pile.You need high density window pile .350 in height .270 in wide for your mainship amazons got for $25 100ft roll
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Old 06-25-2016, 04:11 PM   #32
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C.R. laurance makes the window pile.You need high density window pile .350 in height .270 in wide for your mainship amazons got for $25 100ft roll
Thank you Blue. I'm all over that.
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