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Old 05-15-2016, 08:41 PM   #1
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Heat exchanger cleanout

My Lehman 135 is running slightly hot. I took the heat exchanger off and would like to clean it out. Any suggestions on how best to do this?
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Old 05-15-2016, 08:43 PM   #2
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Greetings,
Welcome aboard. How does the HE look?
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Old 05-15-2016, 09:08 PM   #3
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my lehman 135 is running slightly hot. I took the heat exchanger off and would like to clean it out. Any suggestions on how best to do this?

Rydlyme...
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Old 05-15-2016, 11:33 PM   #4
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Put it back in place and flush it with Barnacle Buster for 4 hrs. It solved my heat rise to 190-195*. Now it runs 165-170*. I couldn't be more pleased.
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Old 05-15-2016, 11:39 PM   #5
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Old 05-16-2016, 09:03 AM   #6
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Take the end caps off and with a heavy brazing rod or a 22 cal rifle cleaning rod, push through all of the tubes to open them up. Then either reinstall and circulate Rydlime or Barnacle Buster through them as indicated above, or you can fill the tube side on the bench with those products and let it soak for a while.


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Old 05-16-2016, 11:28 AM   #7
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What temperature do you consider to be "slightly hot?"
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Old 05-16-2016, 12:18 PM   #8
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Since you have it off, take it to a radiator shop for cleaning.

How old is the heat exchanger? It has a finite life and is readily available for around $600.
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Old 05-16-2016, 12:25 PM   #9
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My Lehman 135 is running slightly hot. I took the heat exchanger off and would like to clean it out. Any suggestions on how best to do this?
You shouldn't have taken it off. You can flush the entire raw water cooling system by leaving all the coolers on and flushing through them.

You just need a bucket, pump, hoses and a couple of fittings.

You can use Rydlime, Barnacle Buster, muriatic acid, etc.
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Old 05-16-2016, 12:29 PM   #10
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Put it back in place and flush it with Barnacle Buster for 4 hrs. It solved my heat rise to 190-195*. Now it runs 165-170*. I couldn't be more pleased.
165-170 is a bit to cold IMO. 180 is what I like to see a Lehman run at.
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Old 05-16-2016, 01:01 PM   #11
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My engines are Perkins 4.236's. The lower helm indicates 165-170, the FB gage shows 5 degrees warmer. I'm OK with that.

They say a man with a watch always knows the time. A man with two watches is never quite sure.
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Old 05-16-2016, 02:30 PM   #12
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What's a temp gun or mechanical gauge say?

Constant low temps are not the best thing for most diesels.
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Old 05-16-2016, 02:37 PM   #13
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I believe Bob Smith says 170 F with a mechanical gage at the expansion tank for a 120 Lehman.
My temp gun verifies.
Mine runs right there, but shows 175-180 on the sending unit gages.
(higher number on the bridge prob due to long old wires).

How about a man with 3 watches? LOL

We have several old pendulum clocks at home. We don't run them. Right now they show the correct time twice a day.
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Old 05-16-2016, 04:27 PM   #14
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Just removed our heat exchanger from our FL 135 for cleaning - ordered 2 rubber end caps and pencil zincs from American Diesel - as stated in the engine manual, use a 3/16 " wood dowel on each tube -.i used a 10 % solution of muriatic acid and it cleaned up great - new coat of paint - checked all the hoses while reinstalling - good for at least another 1000 hours
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Old 07-20-2016, 07:40 PM   #15
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Looking at doing this as one of the first things on the NT855 mine has
(if the lift on Monday goes well and I part with the balance)

Looked at the rydlyme MSDS and it says



Hydrochloric is $8/litre
Water is free


I wonder if I could mix my own
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Old 07-20-2016, 08:46 PM   #16
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Pretty sure the other 10% is an inhibitor to protect the metal. That would be the proprietary part.
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Old 07-20-2016, 08:50 PM   #17
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Pretty sure the other 10% is an inhibitor to protect the metal. That would be the proprietary part.
If I am not mistaken, after the system is flushed of googlies and drained it gets filled back up with coolant choc full of inhibitor goodness anyway.
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Old 07-20-2016, 09:02 PM   #18
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The inhibitor is included in the formula to prevent metal loss DURING the cleaning. Hydrochloric acid is very corrosive without it. Ben
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Old 07-20-2016, 09:58 PM   #19
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The inhibitor is included in the formula to prevent metal loss DURING the cleaning. Hydrochloric acid is very corrosive without it. Ben
Straight Hydrochloric is but we are talking around 10 % or less for an hour at most.

I believe when you send steel off to get galvanised it goes in a hydrochloric bath of around 10% and sits for several hours. If it was that corrosive I doubt they would use it, especially for structural components.

I may be wrong.
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Old 07-20-2016, 10:34 PM   #20
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Heat exchanger cleanout

Depends on the metallurgy of your heat exchanger. Copper, and most copper alloys, no problem. But any contact with ferrous metals, HCL creates ferric chloride which can pit the base metal fairly quickly. Like "as you watch" quickly.

All I can get out of the chemical rep (Nalco) is that HCL is typically inhibited with an organic cation.

So if you pull your exchanger bundle and you are sure that its metallurgy, (tubes, tube sheets and brazing filler) are compatible, sure go ahead. But if you are flushing while in place, I'd reconsider. High risk? Probably not. But low reward. For a few bucks more, I'd want an inhibited acid cleaner.

Barnacle buster, which I believe is Phosphoric acid, is probably safer anyways.

I'm not a chemical guy what so ever. But I have seen operations groups, trying to save money or time, due considerable damage to vessels, boilers, and heat exchangers while chemically cleaning them. I'm the maintenance guy who gets to repair the mistakes...
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