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Old 07-20-2016, 09:37 PM   #21
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Haven't been able to source Barnacle Buster in Canada, and the nearest source for Rydlyme Marine I could find is in Vancouver, BC.

Can you find this stuff (or an equivalent product) anywhere else in Canada?
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Old 07-20-2016, 09:53 PM   #22
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For a few bucks more
A few being $150 more of them here.

I'll pop up the road and see what the guys at Diecon eng. Core cooling are using in their big bath.
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Old 07-20-2016, 09:55 PM   #23
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I use pickling vinegar, wooden dowels and gun cleaning brushes. Never had the buildup they get down in the SE states.
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Old 07-20-2016, 09:56 PM   #24
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A few being $150 more of them here.



I'll pop up the road and see what the guys at Diecon eng. Core cooling are using in their big bath.

That's ridiculous. Good idea. Call your local boilermaker fab shop or radiator shop.
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Old 07-20-2016, 10:21 PM   #25
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That's ridiculous.
And thats using a business name in the marine industry.

Hate to think what Joe public gets sharked
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Old 07-20-2016, 10:23 PM   #26
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Haven't been able to source Barnacle Buster in Canada, and the nearest source for Rydlyme Marine I could find is in Vancouver, BC.

Can you find this stuff (or an equivalent product) anywhere else in Canada?

Phosphoric acid is the ticket. I flushed the entire cooling system on my sailboat with it, and the water flow difference was astounding.

The easiest place to get it is at a stone or tile store. They sell it as a grout cleaner. Way cheaper than Barnacle Buster. I used a five gallon bucket from HD and a little pump and tubing to circulate the "grout cleaner."

It takes quite a while longer than the muriatic acid, as it's much weaker.
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Old 07-21-2016, 12:04 AM   #27
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many years ago, in blissful ignorance, I flushed a pair of my Heat Exchangers with muriatic acid. undiluted. It did a superb job, in very little time. I had recalled a demonstration done in jr high of copper being cleaned with muriatic acid, so I followed what I recalled of the teacher's procedures, paying close attention to the part that kept the acid from my hands and clothing. I never had to take those HEs apart again, had no leaks. They were good when I sold the engines wearing them. Now that I have you guys looking over my shoulders I would not be that brave again.
I might try a solution of Muriatic acid and water though. Now which way do you do the dilution? Acid into water, or water into acid? I know one way is benign, the other is explosive.
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Old 07-21-2016, 12:25 AM   #28
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Acid into water while wearing safety glasses and gloves preferably. Old clothes too.
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Old 07-21-2016, 01:36 AM   #29
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muriatic acid
I should point out the the rest of the civilised world call that Hydrochloric.
We mostly use the metric system as well that is, everyone bar Liberia , Burma (Myanmar) and the USA

No offence intended
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Old 07-21-2016, 01:46 AM   #30
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The faded recollection from my High School chemistry classes (in Australia) is that muriatic acid is a diluted form of hydrochloric acid.
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Old 07-21-2016, 02:02 AM   #31
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No mention of dilution
I could be wrong.
Quote:
Hydrochloric acid is a clear, colorless, highly pungent solution of hydrogen chloride (HCl) in water. It is a highly corrosive, strong mineral acid with many industrial uses. Hydrochloric acid is found naturally in gastric acid. When it reacts with an organic base it forms a hydrochloride salt.
It was historically called acidum salis, muriatic acid, and spirits of salt because it was produced from rock salt and green vitriol (by Basilius Valentinus in the 15th century) and later from the chemically similar common salt and sulfuric acid (by Johann Rudolph Glauber in the 17th century). Free hydrochloric acid was first formally described in the 16th century by Libavius. Later, it was used by chemists such as Glauber, Priestley, and Davy in their scientific research.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrochloric_acid
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Old 07-21-2016, 07:52 AM   #32
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I suppose it depends on how fouled it is and/or how cheap you are or what your standards are. The current state of the art is ultrasound cleaning. I found it easier to send the things out to a good radiator shop to get them completely cleaned and pressure tested for leaks. They looked like new upon return. It's such a critical system I couldn't bring myself to trust it to an amateur, that being me.
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Old 07-21-2016, 04:08 PM   #33
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or how cheap you are
What you pay is no guarantee of quality.
I have seen so many people pay so very much for so very little over the years.
I see the expression "A fool and his money are soon parted" enacted on almost a daily basis.


Quote:
such a critical system I couldn't bring myself to trust it to an amateur, that being me.
If you cant perform relatively simple tasks its probably best you leave it to someone who can but saying that, I have seen so many jobs performed by qualified tradesman over the years that I consider sub standard and money wasted and so many jobs performed by amateurs that far exceed the so call "professionals" work because unlike the "professional" they dont know how to cut corners and do the minimal required to make it work.
Its as if the "Professional" thinks if they do a sub par job it wont last and you'll be back parting with your money again in no time.
I should note, not all pro's are like this - there are some outstanding ones out there, but they are few and far between.

I'll be living on the boat full time, at anchor, more often than not not far away from the local radiator shop so for me, understanding, maintaining and repairing the simple systems is paramount to us continuing this lifestyle.
To come ashore every time something small goes wrong and "Bring Out Another Thousand" would have me reassessing the lifestyle.
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Old 07-21-2016, 04:24 PM   #34
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Here's a link to my thread on the use on Barnacle Buster on FlyWright.

http://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s...xir-20930.html

Designed for the purpose, safe, inexpensive, effective...Count me as one happy customer.
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Old 07-21-2016, 05:11 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by Simi 60 View Post
What you pay is no guarantee of quality.
I have seen so many people pay so very much for so very little over the years.
I see the expression "A fool and his money are soon parted" enacted on almost a daily basis.


If you cant perform relatively simple tasks its probably best you leave it to someone who can but saying that, I have seen so many jobs performed by qualified tradesman over the years that I consider sub standard and money wasted and so many jobs performed by amateurs that far exceed the so call "professionals" work because unlike the "professional" they dont know how to cut corners and do the minimal required to make it work.
Its as if the "Professional" thinks if they do a sub par job it wont last and you'll be back parting with your money again in no time.
I should note, not all pro's are like this - there are some outstanding ones out there, but they are few and far between.

I'll be living on the boat full time, at anchor, more often than not not far away from the local radiator shop so for me, understanding, maintaining and repairing the simple systems is paramount to us continuing this lifestyle.
To come ashore every time something small goes wrong and "Bring Out Another Thousand" would have me reassessing the lifestyle.
You are making what I consider irrelevant generalizations. We are discussing a very specific task and a specific method of getting it done. I am very DIY by nature.

Back to your generalization, he who does not get references from sources he trusts, nor monitors his tradespeople, takes his chances.
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Old 07-21-2016, 05:26 PM   #36
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You are making what I consider irrelevant generalizations.
Consider away

Quote:
We are discussing a very specific task and a specific method of getting it done.
Not really. Pretty much the same as doing a big radiator flush which can be done with any number of products - it doesn't "specifically" have to be one product.

Quote:
Back to your generalization, he who does not get references from sources he trusts, nor monitors his tradespeople, takes his chances.
Easily done if you never venture far from the same place.
But if I am a few thousand miles away and dont know the local businesses I can either take pot luck asking some unknown guy on a boat to refer me to some unknown place and be at their mercy or, I can learn to do the job properly myself.
I would feel more secure doing the later with product I can buy off the shelf at the local hardware, not having to pay $150 a gallon, pay a small fortune in freight and wait for a week or more for it to arrive.
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Old 07-21-2016, 05:28 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by FlyWright View Post
Here's a link to my thread on the use on Barnacle Buster on FlyWright.

http://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s...xir-20930.html

Designed for the purpose, safe, inexpensive, effective...Count me as one happy customer.
Thanks for that.
You make it look so easy.
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Old 07-22-2016, 05:24 AM   #38
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I just cleaned & repainted a tranny HX..
Found a recommended procedure online and followed it.
Caustic clean first to remove any oils...liquid plumber. For my snall HX a couple of rubber stoppers in each end and I could slosh it by hand w it about half full.
Second step acid wash...phosphoric...same procedure.
Flush w water & inspect...repeat acid step if needed.
Wire brushed any loose paint on exterior.
Repaint used self etching primer and engine enamel...both available at most auto parts. Dupli.color self etch primer & enamels are very good but others brands available if you can't find Dupli.color.
All materials readily available locally.
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Old 07-22-2016, 05:26 AM   #39
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Finished product

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