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Old 10-31-2015, 04:38 PM   #1
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Haulout routine checks

I'm having FlyWright hauled out on Wed for repairs to my anchor pulpit after a 65 Hatteras impaled his boat's port side panel (above the toe rail) into my anchor pulpit while we were anchored W of Alcatraz Island at the Blue Angels performance during the SF Fleet Week. We were tight on anchor when it occurred. I had to release the anchor rode from the bow cleat to back away and 'disengage' from the Hatt. He just has a couple holes punched in his masonite panel on the port side. The insurance companies can duke it, but I'm getting my boat fixed. It's almost sturgeon season!

When hauled, they will pressure wash the bottom and place it in the yard. I'll have a couple of weeks to address any issues found while they repair or replace the damaged teak, anchor roller and rub rail. Of course, I'll give it a good walkaround looking for areas in need of attention.

Any suggestions on recommended actions or checks while it's on the hard? I'm not planning any major expenses like new fishfinders. transducers or chartplotters. I'd just like to maintain what I have in good working order.

The bottom was last repainted in 6/09. It sat in freshwater until 8/12 when we moved to the brackish waters of the Napa River/Mare Island Strait. The diver reports the bottom paint in good shape during his 3 month dives...we'll see how it looks on the hard. Zincs should be in good shape....replaced last month in 9/15.

Here's my short list so far:

General hull condition
Thru hulls
bottom paint
swimstep security and hardware
running gear: props, shafts, cutlass bearings, struts, PSS shaft logs
rudders and rudder logs
trim tabs
prop, transom and trim tab zincs

Any special precautions you take when your boat will be on the hard for several weeks? I plan to empty the fridges/freezers of food and bait. I'll have shore power available to keep the batteries charged but don't trust it with perishables in the fridges.

Stow booze (very little), valuables (not many there) and beer (copious amounts!). Protect interior carpets and cushions in area surrounding the anchor locker where they'll need access for pulpit/windlass removal and re-installation.

Any other ideas?
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Old 10-31-2015, 04:58 PM   #2
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Check for bulges in the hull where the cabin jacks where installed

Pictures, lots and lots of pictures.
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Old 10-31-2015, 05:11 PM   #3
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Can't believe you can go so long between bottom paintings. We need to do it every year, multi season paint or not.
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Old 10-31-2015, 06:19 PM   #4
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Can't believe you can go so long between bottom paintings. We need to do it every year, multi season paint or not.
Given the cold water and short season up there, that just doesn't sound right at all.

Back to the OP: when checking the through-hulls, get a good look and feel up there with something like a long screwdriver. If you see paint peeling off any underwater metal, check your bonding system.

Ah yes, the old pulpit through the dodger board trick, eh?

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Old 10-31-2015, 11:58 PM   #5
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Al, it's about time you had your boat hauled onto land (hasn't been done in over six years?!). If nothing else, the hull bottom should be painted if nothing else but general principle. Have mine done every two years and have the boat hauled every year for close inspection (not that I'm recommending this for your boat). The results of your planned haul-out inspection should indicate whether your bottom maintenance has been sufficient.
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Old 11-01-2015, 12:03 AM   #6
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Could be a good opportunity to polish the hull down to the water line ?
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Old 11-01-2015, 08:15 AM   #7
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I would plan on changing the PSS shaft seal rubber hoses between the shaft seal and the shaft log and probably the water feed hoses. I'm kind of OCD, so would probably take the opportunity to pull the shafts and props to have them checked, recondition the props if necessary, and redo the rudder shaft seals. Would also consider emptying the chain locker for a visual inspection of the locker and your anchor road. If you run all chain, this would be an opportune time to end for end (reverse) the chain and redo the length marks.

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Old 11-01-2015, 11:08 PM   #8
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Thanks for the great points, guys. I really appreciate them. Please keep 'em coming.

I made it by the boat today to get the dink off the swimstep and empty the fridges of food and bait. Also laid down some protective runners and towels to protect carpets and fabrics near the anchor locker.

I'll consider the need for bottom paint based upon what we see when hauled. If getting it done now will save me a haulout next year, I'll definitely do it now. Mark, if I had a steel boat and your money, I'd paint every other year, too!

Gaston, I like the idea, but buffing and waxing this hull is sorta like putting lipstick on a pig. I did it in 2009 but it didn't make much difference. This old gelcoat needs a coat of quality paint someday...but not this day.

Good thoughts, Ted. My stbd PSS is from 2006 and has performed flawlessly. The port side was replaced in 2009. Water hoses are the same vintage. I just rec'd a PM from Janice offering me her PSS bellows and metal ring which match my shaft size. Maybe those will come in handy! Gotta love TFers! Thanks a million, Janice!

My props were Prop Scan balanced in 2012. The running gear was overhauled with the installation of 2 new struts, 1 new port shaft and associated parts (cutlass bearings, stbd shaft removal and inspection, etc.) in June 2009.

My anchor locker is great with easy access and frequent visits. (I'm kinda OCD in that dept, too.) Just swapped rode ends before the summer when I learned the 8 ply Brait to chain splice. (120' chain/240' Brait) I also added 50 ft of 1/2 inch poly to the tag end.

My swimstep is an aftermarket install by a PO. It's always flexed under foot so I'm very interested in resolving that.
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Old 11-02-2015, 06:31 AM   #9
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Check exhaust hose, hoses from seacocks, and associated clamps, to engines, generators, etc. While all of those can be changed in the water, I find it more comforting to crawl around in tight spots to work on that stuff when the boat can't sink. Most of that stuff is probably fine, but it's a good time to do an inspection and maybe some replacements.

Ted
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Old 11-02-2015, 08:20 AM   #10
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Check bonding system by checking for continuity between item bonded and main zinc.
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Old 11-02-2015, 09:49 AM   #11
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Check bonding system by checking for continuity between item bonded and main zinc.
That's a good one!
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Old 11-02-2015, 01:35 PM   #12
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Check bonding system by checking for continuity between item bonded and main zinc.
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Old 11-02-2015, 05:46 PM   #13
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Check bonding system by checking for continuity between item bonded and main zinc.
Quite a few boats are not set up that way.
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Old 11-02-2015, 10:22 PM   #14
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I like the idea. I'm able to follow the electrical path to check it. All I'll need are longer alligator clip leads. Piece of cake!
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Old 11-02-2015, 11:14 PM   #15
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Yes FlyWright, it is a quick and easy way to check condition of bonding system. If all checks out it saves climbing around in spaces not designed for the human body to fit in let alone work in.
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