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Old 07-09-2012, 03:24 AM   #1
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My Bare Bottom

Adagio, Has had her bottom paint removed. She is now being barrier coated with Sea Hawk Tuff Stuff Epoxy Coating.


Tough work but overdue!

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Old 07-09-2012, 05:40 AM   #2
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John:

Did you do the work?

Did you find any blisters?
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Old 07-09-2012, 08:52 AM   #3
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Bottom looks nice but you better get it covered. Seriously, I have taken the summer off and was thinking about doing a needed bottom job myself and save 2k.
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Old 07-09-2012, 10:35 AM   #4
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Looks like the keel edge could use some work.

Is that raw fiberglass showing?

Sd
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Old 07-09-2012, 11:30 AM   #5
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There are a lot of things you can do to a boat yourself, but removing and then reapplying bottom paint has got to be one of the hardest and dirtiest.

I paid the marina manager to do my last bottom paint job and I'll either pay him again next time or take it to a local yard that often puts bottom jobs on sale.

Electrical, plumbing, and carpentry work I'll tackle myself.
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Old 07-09-2012, 11:36 AM   #6
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It would be nice to have a stainless steel keel shoe to give a little protection in case of grounding.Her bottom looks good overall.Can't wait to see the pink bottom and neon green boot strap your doing.

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Old 07-10-2012, 12:39 AM   #7
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Bare Bottom

We just finished doing the exact thing with our Willard 30. Undoubtedly the nastiest, dirtiest job. Was yours not tented? Did you sand or???
We scraped, sanded and ground the paint off ours.

We had our cast iron keel coated with two coats of zinc primer then the entire boat with 2 coats of epoxy barrier sprayed on and then two coats of bottom paint sprayed on too. It is back in the water now and ready to go out.

Lots of pictures to document the job for our "Owners Manual". Nice to have it done and know it is there and done well.
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Old 07-10-2012, 01:15 AM   #8
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Looks like you did the stripping yourselves rather than sandblasting. Congratulations,tough job,we did a dry hard rotary sand of the remaining antifoul and everything else after osmosis work, awful job,the vertical bits were ok,but the rest, lying on your back sanding overhead, in mask and goggles...never again, but yours was a much tougher job. I can`t see any circular spot signs of blister repairs,that`s great. Your speed for engine rpm will leap,nothing like a smooth bottom. BruceK
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Old 07-10-2012, 04:34 AM   #9
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Quote:
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John:

Did you do the work?

Did you find any blisters?

I did it myself, Scraped by hand, lots of different layers and colors.

Big areas would just practically fall off, then a stuck area would take hours.

Followed with random orbital and 60 grit. Whole thing took a week, the bridge of my nose hurt from wearing a respirator that long.

No blisters, but small white dots long like pimples that were sanded off years ago. Some minor checking in the gelcoat.

Don't thing I would tackle this again.
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Old 07-10-2012, 04:36 AM   #10
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It would be nice to have a stainless steel keel shoe to give a little protection in case of grounding.Her bottom looks good overall.Can't wait to see the pink bottom and neon green boot strap your doing.

How did you know our color scheme?
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Old 07-10-2012, 04:36 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by rwidman View Post
There are a lot of things you can do to a boat yourself, but removing and then reapplying bottom paint has got to be one of the hardest and dirtiest.

I paid the marina manager to do my last bottom paint job and I'll either pay him again next time or take it to a local yard that often puts bottom jobs on sale.

Electrical, plumbing, and carpentry work I'll tackle myself.

Smart Man!!
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Old 07-10-2012, 04:42 AM   #12
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Looks like the keel edge could use some work.

Is that raw fiberglass showing?

Sd
Actually there is no damage at all.

The original mold or the process they used resulted in an uneven place along the center of the keel, The sanding was not as effective accross this small lip or bump.

Been that way for 30 years so I think it will stay like this on my watch.
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Old 07-10-2012, 04:43 AM   #13
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Looks like you did the stripping yourselves rather than sandblasting. Congratulations,tough job,we did a dry hard rotary sand of the remaining antifoul and everything else after osmosis work, awful job,the vertical bits were ok,but the rest, lying on your back sanding overhead, in mask and goggles...never again, but yours was a much tougher job. I can`t see any circular spot signs of blister repairs,that`s great. Your speed for engine rpm will leap,nothing like a smooth bottom. BruceK

Never again for me too. Yes no blister repairs!
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Old 07-10-2012, 01:15 PM   #14
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How did you know our color scheme?
Good guess I suppose.
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Old 07-10-2012, 02:20 PM   #15
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Only an idiot would seek counsel and not pay heed. To the boat yard she will go! Thanks for the info...
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Old 07-10-2012, 02:41 PM   #16
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Only an idiot would seek counsel and not pay heed. To the boat yard she will go! Thanks for the info...
Whoaaa there nellie...

Most boatyards/surveyors don't know crappola about hydrolysis and blistering.

If you are serious about your bottom...you can take a more methodical approach (much like a general contractor) and make sure every step of the way is necessary and done correctly. The vast majority of boatyards along the Atlantic/Gulf Coasts are NOT capable of making such judgements...you are better off doing some research and then farming out any work you deem necessary. Yes there are yards that specialize in this work and they are gonna do it right.... but at a price that most older trawler owners really cant afford.

Don't jump into anything and don't get out the checkbook just yet. I ground down my bottom into the first roving laminate past the gel and mat....repaired hundreds of blisters and a 5'x5' section that was delaminated halfway through the hull. Yes I have hundreds of man hours into it but only around $1500 into a quoted $30,000 dollar job. So you see it's worth doing your homework and asking around.
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Old 07-10-2012, 08:00 PM   #17
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If you are serious about your bottom...you can take a more methodical approach...you are better off doing some research and then farming out any work you deem necessary. Yes there are yards that specialize in this work and they are gonna do it right.... but at a price that most older trawler owners really cant afford.

.
In Sydney, guys such as "Sodablast" will strip an IG36 for around AUD $2500 (still at/above parity). He arrives in a custom fitted truck,sets up screening,takes half a day,(our all over hard sand took me, and my better half, a weekend), works relatively quietly,recovers the grit material,cleans up,and leaves a hull ready for whatever work is required. Shipwrights working on my hull said, in hindsight, it was the better way. BruceK
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Old 07-10-2012, 08:39 PM   #18
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In Sydney, guys such as "Sodablast" will strip an IG36 for around AUD $2500 (still at/above parity). He arrives in a custom fitted truck,sets up screening,takes half a day,(our all over hard sand took me, and my better half, a weekend), works relatively quietly,recovers the grit material,cleans up,and leaves a hull ready for whatever work is required. Shipwrights working on my hull said, in hindsight, it was the better way. BruceK
Depends...if more material needs to come off than paint...like the gel or a layer of mat, etc...the cost skyrockets sometimes.

Also..not every soda blast guy knows or understands hydrolysis/blistering...yeah...they are great at removing paint...but you better check if you need more than that done.
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Old 07-11-2012, 07:03 AM   #19
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Watching someone scraping and bottom painting boats for a living makes me very thankful that my parents insisted that I get a good education.
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Old 07-11-2012, 07:07 AM   #20
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From the top of my class to the bottom of my boat...nice to be good at so many things....
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