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Old 02-16-2015, 07:45 PM   #21
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Really nice work.
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Old 02-16-2015, 08:50 PM   #22
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Thanks Sailor of Fortune. I love your avatar . Is that where you go to work everyday ? Looks like one tough tug .
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Old 02-22-2015, 09:15 PM   #23
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All parts are epoxied and screwed down . Ready for bungs , sanding , varnish then caulk . I'm going to to round and radius the outsides of the 45 % corners so the won't slice the ankles .
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Old 02-23-2015, 04:25 PM   #24
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Don't forget it should be dogged down, especially a wood hatch that will float off in a a wave over transom.
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Old 02-23-2015, 04:36 PM   #25
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Thanks Brooksie ,I plan on dogging it down . We are in pretty tame waters here on the Tennessee river . Maybe one of these days I'll get out of this play pin . Bahamas maybe:
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Old 02-23-2015, 05:15 PM   #26
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All parts are epoxied and screwed down . Ready for bungs , sanding , varnish then caulk . I'm going to to round and radius the outsides of the 45 % corners so the won't slice the ankles .
PM: If you varnish before you caulk are you worried about the TDS adhering or lifting over time on a varnished finish?
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Old 02-23-2015, 06:25 PM   #27
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PM: If you varnish before you caulk are you worried about the TDS adhering or lifting over time on a varnished finish?
I try to keep the varnish just on the face and not down the edges where the caulk is . I have done it both ways . TDS told me that the varnish has a tendency to break loose from the caulking when varnishing over the top of it . I have it both ways right now . My rails are varnished after caulk and my doors are before . I guess time will tell what's best . I'm under cover so it's probably not a good test . It's hard to get the black caulk out of the grain .
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Old 02-25-2015, 03:23 PM   #28
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I just went thru 6 years of Wooden Boat magazines looking for articles on hatches, found two but nothing that you haven't discussed. By the look of craftsmanship displayed in the photos you posted you don't need any help. Looks great !!
Makes me want to work on our Bomar type hatch on the fore deck that wants to leak if it's not covered with a tarp.
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Old 02-25-2015, 03:38 PM   #29
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Thanks HiDHo . I wish I could have built a flush hatch but trying to figure out drains and troughs made my head hurt .
Having a decent supply of teak,good tools and a shop makes a big difference . It also doesn't hurt working at lumber company to get a better deal on teak. I don't know if I could ever give up my shop to live aboard . It would be a good excuse to learn how to use hand woodworking tools instead of power tools .
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Old 02-25-2015, 04:18 PM   #30
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Really beautiful hatch Mule
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Old 03-09-2015, 08:12 PM   #31
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Got rid of those sharp corners ,bunged and sanded . Deck frame also done . Now it's ready for varnish . The air is too damp this week , even under cover to varnish outside. My wife does the varnish . Maybe just maybe I can talk her in to doing the varnish in the dinning room. She won't have to cook this week because varnishing in the house and cooking does not work .
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Old 03-09-2015, 09:40 PM   #32
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Really looks good, you mite consider raising it up to table hight it just to nice for people to step on
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Old 03-09-2015, 09:49 PM   #33
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Damn Pack! You are one fine wood butcher.
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Old 03-09-2015, 10:08 PM   #34
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Thanks Jim and Parks . Jim it's as big as small picnic table.
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Old 03-09-2015, 10:10 PM   #35
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That's a sweet looking hatch, Marty! I could use you over here to do some of my finish work! Bring the Admiral along too.
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Old 03-09-2015, 10:49 PM   #36
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Thanks Larry but I think we both need Ted's guy Sean . He is amazing . I would like to just hang out with him in the shop for a month or two .
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Old 03-09-2015, 11:01 PM   #37
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Looks great Pack, I think I'd tape off the teak and caulk, then sand and varnish over the caulk. Remember this is a deck hatch and it's going to get scuffed up a lot over a years time. It'll be a lot easier to varnish over the whole thing rather than tape off the caulk each spring. When you caulk, remember to use a glue brush and acetone or lacquer thinner to wash the grooves to remove most of the teak oil so the TDS caulk will stick better. If you tape the teak first, you won't have any caulk on the teak surface after caulking. It's easy on a small job like this and will save a lot of teak that won't have to be sanded so much. I've done thousands of square feet of teak decks and hatches with TDS guys. When you run the seams with the flex putty knife to flatten them, the caulk will shrink about 1/32 of an inch, giving a concave caulk surface so the teak will wear but not the caulk seam. If you want an absolutely flat surface on the hatch, don't use the putty knife and leave the proud caulk bead. When you sand after the caulk has cured, the caulk will sand easily down to the taped surface and you'll have clean teak under the tape. Much faster than sanding through caulk stained teak. Again, it's a beautiful job! Ben
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Old 03-09-2015, 11:13 PM   #38
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Got rid of those sharp corners ,bunged and sanded . Deck frame also done . Now it's ready for varnish . The air is too damp this week , even under cover to varnish outside. My wife does the varnish . Maybe just maybe I can talk her in to doing the varnish in the dinning room. She won't have to cook this week because varnishing in the house and cooking does not work .

VERY nice!!


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Old 03-09-2015, 11:44 PM   #39
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tego. ,
Thanks , I have done the varnish caulk thing both ways . I'm not sure which way I like best. I caulked my rails first and then varnished and on my door panels I varnished first the caulked . The flex putty knife is diffidently the way to go . This is a pic of my door panel varnished first then caulked .
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