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Old 08-15-2016, 04:50 PM   #21
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Thanks, but boat's in New Bern now.
Since not him, I would still get someone to look at it, perhaps someone at a boatyard, you pay just to look and advise. The thing is that you just don't know if your issues are surface, if it is in any way connected to the cracks, where it's most likely coming from. However, most importantly you don't know what damage is being done. This could be something that to fix now is relatively inexpensive (nothing is inexpensive, just not as bad as other), but if left unaddressed could end up major.
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Old 08-15-2016, 04:57 PM   #22
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Having been in "the industry " and had to deal with the nemesis of cracks. Leaks can originate 10-20ft from where they drip.
Save yourself some agro and invest in a ultrasound generator/receiver. Body shops use them a lot to flood the inside of cars and check window seals /door seals.
I bought my last one from the U.K. on ebay, chased some window leaks down in no time on my trawler that weeped down the interior sealing and down the forward companionway steps.
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Old 08-15-2016, 06:14 PM   #23
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I have found the Treadmaster Non Skid to be a bit rough on bare feet. If you're just doing a few areas and not the whole deck, maybe OK.
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Old 08-16-2016, 02:09 PM   #24
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Having been in "the industry " and had to deal with the nemesis of cracks. Leaks can originate 10-20ft from where they drip.
Save yourself some agro and invest in a ultrasound generator/receiver. Body shops use them a lot to flood the inside of cars and check window seals /door seals.
I bought my last one from the U.K. on ebay, chased some window leaks down in no time on my trawler that weeped down the interior sealing and down the forward companionway steps.
Thank you very much. This sounds very much like what I need. You are correct. My deck is sloped up at the bow quite a bit, so I suspect it's coming from forward on back. I'll start nosing around on eBay, CL and Amazon if I have to.
Thanks Again!

After I just now checked - who makes these? Seems to be everything from checking gases to checking babies in bellies...
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Old 08-16-2016, 02:59 PM   #25
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Don't forget that water can migrate upwards also due to capillary effects.
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Old 08-16-2016, 06:11 PM   #26
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Treadmaster Non Skid Deck Covering
Anyone have experience with this?
I have that stuff on my foredeck and afterdeck. It would be rough as-is, I'd recommend a deck coating to keep it soft to the feet. Also, you should consider coating it anyway because otherwise you are at risk of leaks around the edges and on the seams over time and weathering cycles.

I'm fixing small leaks/bubbles/cracks this summer, the material on my boat is many years old and coated. I'm using Rust-oleum Restore 2X coating. It is easy to work, tint-matched to existing, looks great, has good elasticity, builds up good without being too thick.

I'm sure there are those here with more expertise/experience with Treadmaster, but I find it reasonable stuff to walk on, maintain and repair.
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Old 08-16-2016, 06:32 PM   #27
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Completely ripping out the deck is my emotional thought. It passes quickly. But I think I am strategizing two-part epoxy to the visible spots, git-rot in any internal wet spots found, coating the deck, and then the rubberized mat surface in my prior post.

Just going to ruminate on it a bit before committing dollars.
Before I tackled all you are noting here, I would re-bed ALL your deck fittings. The bedding will fail over time and it is when you get a leak like you are noting that one of the buggers is leaking. It isn't as hard to do this as you might think and will give you years of a dry boat interior. If one is leaking, others will be soon behind that one.

Hairline cracks can be made waterproof with just a good wax if they are really just a hairline crack in the gelcoat.

Good luck!
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Old 08-17-2016, 01:05 PM   #28
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Before I tackled all you are noting here, I would re-bed ALL your deck fittings. The bedding will fail over time and it is when you get a leak like you are noting that one of the buggers is leaking. It isn't as hard to do this as you might think and will give you years of a dry boat interior. If one is leaking, others will be soon behind that one.
Ugh. Yes. I am avoiding that inevitability. Railings mostly. But cleats and stanchion, of course as well. Lots of exploration to get to the right spots in all. Good excuse for alcohol and power tools. (Joking. Sort of.)
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Old 08-17-2016, 02:45 PM   #29
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Ugh. Yes. I am avoiding that inevitability. Railings mostly. But cleats and stanchion, of course as well. Lots of exploration to get to the right spots in all. Good excuse for alcohol and power tools. (Joking. Sort of.)
When we purchased our Symbol 41 Sundeck last August, it had all sorts of leaks that took a bit to chase down. After a day of just searching, I just said 'screw it' and I lifted all the deck attachments (hand rail stanchions and a few cleats) and re-bedded everything. It only took an afternoon to get the job done. It was much faster than just trying to find what was leaking and where the water was coming from. I also re-bed around the forward deck hatch while at it. Dry boat ever since...
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Old 08-18-2016, 07:46 AM   #30
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"It was much faster than just trying to find what was leaking and where the water was coming from. I also re-bed around the forward deck hatch while at it. Dry boat ever since..."

No goop lasts forever , re bedding is a PM style task, best done every few years , before your bunk is wet , before the PH windows fall out and before the deck rots.
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