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Old 09-07-2016, 04:31 PM   #21
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Thank you to everyone for your responses. By the way, I also tried reasoning, scolding and cussing which didnt work either.
Never skip the prayers.

I spray my sea-cocks and valves and bronze plumbing with Deep Creep, and it gives me confidence that I will later be able to move ithem. Sometimes I cheat and use a torque wrench as a slow breaker bar, more than me being a hammer swinger-persuader.
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Old 09-07-2016, 11:04 PM   #22
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Dry ice or ice on the cover, heat on the body.
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Old 09-08-2016, 12:40 AM   #23
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Dry ice or ice on the cover, heat on the body.
I like that. Might not need the heat if you can chill the cover.
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Old 09-08-2016, 05:42 AM   #24
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Dry ice or ice on the cover, heat on the body.
I wonder if chilling the cover pulls the lid tighter down on the sealing surface.

Ted
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Old 09-08-2016, 05:59 AM   #25
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jleonard, do you have a particular grease recommendation in mind?
I use whatever I have.
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Old 09-08-2016, 06:47 AM   #26
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. . . . . The right way to do this is to remove the darn thing from the boat, clamp it in a big vice and work on it there.
You know it makes sense! The alternative is to tear the mounting screws out of the backing material. Then you have two repairs instead of only one.
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Old 09-08-2016, 08:18 AM   #27
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any grease will help but copper antisieze would be my choice.
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Old 09-08-2016, 10:35 AM   #28
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Ted, the lid on the Groco ARG series of strainer has male threads so cooling it would shrink them away from the female threads in the body of the strainer.
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Old 09-08-2016, 11:12 AM   #29
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Ted, the lid on the Groco ARG series of strainer has male threads so cooling it would shrink them away from the female threads in the body of the strainer.
Yes, but it has a face seal in the top of the housing. Does shrinking the lid pull the lid flange tighter against the housing?

Ted
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Old 09-08-2016, 12:08 PM   #30
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Hammer and chisel. Get the blade of the chisel to catch in the lid where the holes stick out. TAP TAP TAP. This method has never failed me. No heat or penetrant needed. It also works to free conventional shaft packing nuts...especially when that nut is down in a keel where the keel walls prevent a wrench being used...which was the case with my Prairie 29.
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Old 09-08-2016, 12:20 PM   #31
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Once you get it off and later put it back together, just hand tighten it till it's snug. The o-ring makes the seal. The lids get stuck because people feel the need to crank then town as tight as they can.
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Old 09-08-2016, 01:01 PM   #32
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Yes, but it has a face seal in the top of the housing. Does shrinking the lid pull the lid flange tighter against the housing?

Ted
I see what you're saying. I don't know, but my gut feeling is that it wouldn't.
I think we need a scientific test!
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Old 09-08-2016, 04:00 PM   #33
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Just went through this on an A/C strainer. Take off the plastic bottom after you close the sea cock and drain the strainer through the little petcock at the bottom. Needed to remove the strainer entirely from the hoses. Kept me from breaking the plastic housing.

After I had it out of the boat, used channel locks to open the lid. Cleaned and replaced back in boat, but coated all threads liberally with Vaseline. Worked perfectly.

Since our area is plagued with sea grass, I needed to re-clean it a week later. Opened very easily the normal way.
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Old 09-09-2016, 06:01 AM   #34
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Best penetrant I've ever found is called AeroKroil. Only available online, but there's nothing like it. Penetrates spaces as small as 2 microns. Much better than PB, etc.
Downside is you can only order it online.

I have no affiliation with the company...

https://www.amazon.com/Kano-Aerokroi.../dp/B000F09CEA
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Old 09-09-2016, 06:25 AM   #35
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Awhile ago, a best penetrant thread posted either a practical sailor or some mechanics forum rated ac50/50 mix of acetone and power sterling fluid.

Still haven't tried it but saved it to my priority memos.
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Old 09-13-2016, 08:13 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by HopCar View Post
I see what you're saying. I don't know, but my gut feeling is that it wouldn't.
I think we need a scientific test!
Cooling metal will shrink it in all dimensions. so it will pull away top, side and bottom a little bit.
It is easiest to heat since you can force a lot of heat compared to cooling, the temp difference is much greater for you to to do with heat.
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Old 09-13-2016, 08:13 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by psneeld View Post
Awhile ago, a best penetrant thread posted either a practical sailor or some mechanics forum rated ac50/50 mix of acetone and power sterling fluid.

Still haven't tried it but saved it to my priority memos.
I have read acetone 50/50 with red ATF works well.
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Old 09-13-2016, 09:22 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by Lobstah View Post
Best penetrant I've ever found is called AeroKroil. Only available online, but there's nothing like it. Penetrates spaces as small as 2 microns. Much better than PB, etc.
Downside is you can only order it online.

I have no affiliation with the company...

https://www.amazon.com/Kano-Aerokroi.../dp/B000F09CEA
This brochure just landed on my desk this morning . Our local bearing house has it in stock . My strainer lid is froze on my intake for my generator . I think I will pick some up .
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