good advice for cleaning / waxing

[North Baltic sea]

good advice for cleaning / waxing. I have not previously been a large horizontal surfaces cleaned and waxed (UV protection) as in the Nordic tug at the top level and at the bow. currently faces look as good as new, but at what chemicals, what would be the easiest and best way to do this? the surface of the diamond patterned so ordinary wax may remain in the gaps?

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. NB. Here in North America there is a product called Woody Wax. It was originally made for surf boards but has found a following with boaters as a coating. Woody Wax Brushes, Gloves, And Applicator Kits

 

[rwidman]

I use Star Brite Non Skid Deck Cleaner. It cleans and leaves a film that helps keep the surface in a condition where dirt and such rinses off easily. Some folks use Woody Wax.


You are correct, don't use normal boat wax and whatever you do, don't use abrasives.

 

[dhays]

I have used Woody Wax and have been pleased. The downside for me is that by the time I have completely washed the boat, I am just plain to tired to apply the Woody Wax, even though it is very easy to apply.

It also should be applied when it is dry and reasonably warm. Any time we get a day that is dry and reasonably warm around here AND I'm not working. I'd rather be taking the boat out than cleaning and waxing. That could be why my boats tend to have a "well used" look about them?

 

[North Baltic sea]

Thank you for your recommendations, woody unfortunately not be here.i can work Star brite try non skid cleaner. I want to share this product which I am fond of pre wax seelant.


Finish Kare Hi-Temp Paste Wax STEP 3 Hi-Temp Paste Wax offered by Finish Kare Mold Release


This is really a PRO product a synthetic wax finishing is not polisher. gives long protection against UV and VOCs black stripes, I have several years of experience here. it is edulline, very long-lasting, easy to apply and wiped off. I recommend I've tried really many marine wax, but this is a miracle, I love it.


Dot mis this wax selant 18$ enough for 38 footer boat for three time.

 

[Pgitug]

Greetings,
Mr. NB. Here in North America there is a product called Woody Wax. It was originally made for surf boards but has found a following with boaters as a coating. Woody Wax Brushes, Gloves, And Applicator Kits

Ok, I don't mean to be slow. But what Woody Wax product do you spread on Your nonskid?
Thanks for the tip.

 

[markpierce]

Ok, I don't mean to be slow. But what Woody Wax product do you spread on Your nonskid?
Thanks for the tip.

Why would you want to wax a nonskid surface?

 

[Capt.Bill11]

Why would you want to wax a nonskid surface?

Some people are just anal retentive.

 

[dhays]

Why would you want to wax a nonskid surface?

Keep it cleaner. The product discussed does not make non-skid slippery.

 

[North Baltic sea]

Why would you want to wax a nonskid surface?

I for one do I apply UV protection, UV not only cosmetic damage, it also reduces slightly the strength of the structure.


Crazing


Crazing is the result of UV damage. The ultra-violet light breaks down the binder in the resin used in gelcoat. Unreacted styrene evaporates leaving behind only the pigments used to color the gelcoat (the chalkiness of unprotected gelcoat is simply pigment that is no longer bound by resin). Left unattended, the whole thickness of the gelcoat becomes a house of cards. It is no longer structurally stable and will, either from expansion and contraction caused by temperature variations, or by the flexing of the boat underway, begin to crack across the whole surface. It looks like alligator skin. The cracks are uniform across the exposed surface, not concentrated in one area like damage from an impact.


Most people think of crazing as a cosmetic problem that requires only cosmetic solutions. What most people fail to take into account is that the resin used in gelcoat is the same resin used in fiberglass. The UV rays don't just destroy the gelcoat, then hit that first layer of fiberglass and call it a day. In extreme cases, the fiberglass itself will begin to craze. You won't know it until the gelcoat is removed and the fiberglass is visually inspected. If your boat is at this stage, it is very likely to be beyond what is financially reasonable to repair. I don't want to get distracted and move into an area of the book that will be covered in detail later, but suffice it to say, cosmetic problems have structural ramifications. Keeping your boat in good cosmetic condition is an element of safety, not vanity.


The only way to repair crazed fiberglass is to grind off all of the dead gelcoat and the damaged fiberglass behind it until you are down to clean glass. Then starting with a layer of mat, alternate laminating cloth and mat until the full thickness has been restored. The final layer should, as always, be a layer of mat. When all that has been done, you can fill and fair the surface and topcoat it, either with a marine paint system or by going through the unnecessarily arduous task of re-gelcoating a boat.


What will not work is the process of filling the cracks with epoxy or an epoxy primer since the whole thickness of the gelcoat has already been compromised. The cracks are simply the fracture points from expansion or flex, filling them will not stabilize the damaged gelcoat and fiberglass that hasn't cracked. It may appear to be a solution because the cracks are gone, but, like a house with a bad foundation, fixing the roof won't solve the problem.
http://www.fiberglassics.com/restoration/fiberglassic-guide-to-boat-construction-and-repair


second sea gull **** comes off more easily

 

[mlaloli]

Hi there, I am in West Australia and the UV is particular tough. Have been restoring an old run down clipper and impressed with the finish Ive been getting to the gelcoat... This exercise led me to try many products, and finally I was introduced to the 3m line.. I feel they are the best ive used so far and some areas of my gelcoat are so waxed up now they are very slippery when wet!!