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Old 04-27-2016, 06:58 PM   #21
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Beautiful WOOD boat dwhatty.

Your boat gives me a nice seque into taking a shot a shot at all of you "wood boats are expensive" types.

So are Diamond rings.

What bothers me, is not only that the dubious nature of the position, but also it avoids certain realities. Beauty inspires. So does wood. Fiberglass does not - except insofar as hull designers paying homage to wood decide to give their fiberglass patterns a wood look. It reminds me of the old wood siding vs vinyl siding argument. Yes, vinyl does last for forever. But its is also ugly forever. If you want ugly choose vinyl.

That said -thanks for all to the comments. They are very helpful.
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Old 04-27-2016, 07:16 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Cofer View Post


Most if not all yards will not let you sand below the waterline. Unless your bottom paint is peeling off in sheets just clean and re-paint with good quality bottom paint.
It must be different out west. I can't think of a yard that doesn't let you get your bottom sanded.
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Old 04-27-2016, 07:17 PM   #23
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Do some research on replacing zincs on a woody. You can over zinc and wear wood away.
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Old 04-27-2016, 07:18 PM   #24
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The yards here will not let you self perform bottom sanding but will let you pay them to do it.
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Old 04-27-2016, 07:19 PM   #25
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We have one on the rudder and one on the prop nut.
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Old 04-27-2016, 07:36 PM   #26
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Bob,
Good point about the heat gun. As you say it no doubt is better. One needs to be very careful and attentive w the propane torch or you'll have blackened wood. How readily the wood turns blact (burnt) varies in sensitivity due to species.
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Old 04-27-2016, 07:41 PM   #27
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Good pints and suggestions so far.


Be sure to get a firm description and cost for necessary work to be done. A question lingering is did you buy a wooden boat without a survey?
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Old 04-30-2016, 12:47 AM   #28
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Well she was hauled out today. I thought I would post some pictures.

The bottom appeared much better than I was expecting. To quote the lift operator "pretty darn good shape". Hopefully they won't find anything disastrous over the course of the next week. Absent a thorough sounding the entire hull the the port side stern was the most obvious area of concern - that and the fact the zincs were gone. I did not post pictures but the prop and rudder cleaned up pretty good with no apparent problems.

I have included a picture of the transom I mentioned. Should the swim step come off during the process? Im thinking of going with a blue bottom paint instead of the red.
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Old 04-30-2016, 01:04 AM   #29
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Greetings,
Mr. mp. She DOES look pretty good. "Disastrous" is all relative. Plank replacement, baring any underlying damage (chines/battens/ribs), is pretty straight forward and not terribly complex. Peeling paint could be indicative of a rotted plank or simply poor paint application. Sounding and probing is definitely in order.
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Old 04-30-2016, 01:43 AM   #30
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The advice the yard gave me... get this thing back in the water quick...

PS... i posted before i saw your pics... your wood boat looks pretty good.

Hope there are no problems and you are back in the water soon.
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Old 04-30-2016, 11:59 PM   #31
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A few more photos. All in all it doesnt "look" bad. I have attached a few more photos.

One thing I noticed is that the worst sections (worst as defined by missing/chipping paint) were all at the water line. Why is that?
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Old 05-01-2016, 12:59 AM   #32
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Bottom paint is designed to be wet. Chipping and pealing at the waterline is fairly common on woodies. You can relocate the boot stripe so less of the bottom paint is exposed to air or just touch it up during your annual haul out and inspection.

Last year we changed from black to blue bottom paint. Sure altered the look of our boat!

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Old 05-01-2016, 10:58 AM   #33
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With respect to zincs on non-conductive surfaces: they're useless unless bonded to, connected to, wired to, the metals they're supposed to protect.

With respect to bonding: there's still chatter about whether it's best to bond all the underwater metal or not. My guess is that if the boat lives at a dock it's necessary due to the risk of stray currents, and not so important if the boat is a long distance from others and does not have its own problems with stray currents.

With respect to paint failure at the waterline: bottom paint is not made for not being immersed; topside paint is not made to be immersed. That boottop area is neither fish nor fowl and is hard to keep painted, let alone successfully repaint, on any boat.

Lovely boat! Have her surveyed by someone who knows wood. Wood boats are maintainable, repairable structures but you have to stay aware of their needs and plan ahead. (There was a lovely wood Egg Harbor in our marina whose only failure was shabby frame heels; sad to see her going in a dumpster for, what?, 1% of the wood?)
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Old 05-01-2016, 02:04 PM   #34
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It's hard to tell in your pictures the actual condition, most boats look good while they are wet. I think see blisters in the paint along the bottom near the worm wood. Don't be afraid to take a awl andf poke around at any thing that looks questionable. It looks like they may have started sanding, you should be able to see if the boat has been refastened. There will be twice as many screws in every plank, they will be doubled up next to each other. If this is not the case have the yard try and pull a couple of screws. They may come out as thin noodles or just crumble in place, the heads breaking off. If this the case you will have to refasten the bottom. Bronze screws are good for 20 to 40 years or so. Big range of time. A lot of wood boat sink because of failed fasteners.
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Old 05-01-2016, 07:31 PM   #35
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Ablated paint washes off the waterline from wave action against the side of the hull. That's what I've been told. My painter always puts extra coats on the waterline. Hope you have a good inspection-Love the woodies.
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Old 05-05-2016, 01:04 PM   #36
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There is always paint left over from a bottom job.

It is usually used up within the first foot or two of the waterline as that is where the most fouling is.
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Old 05-05-2016, 01:41 PM   #37
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From the photos she looks to be well maintained and generally in good shape.

Yo will want to investigate and repair the water intrusion (blackenning seen in the photo) in the starboard side of the tramson. Check the soundness of both the tramson and the hull planks around these corners as they can be problematic in wooden Grand Banks.

As mentioned above, in the Grand Banks forum there is huge knowledge base specifically on wooden GBs like yours:
IAGBO :: Index

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Old 06-11-2016, 11:50 PM   #38
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I thought I would post some final pictures from the haul out and bottom painting just to finish this off.

All in all my first haul out experience went well but with a few lessons learned for next time. When I started I was under the impression that I was not allowed to work in the yard so I lost time where I could have been doing some interior work in the bilge and other places. Also I let the yard do the transom. I was not particularly impressed with how it came out but its much better than before.

I appreciate all the input. While the boat was in the yard I frequently came back to your posts to review what I should be doing/looking for. One thing I was really happy about is the hull seemed to be very tight and in excellent shape. The boat yard was impressed. Also we pulled a number of fasteners in the standard spots and they were also in great shape. So I think I may have dodged a bullet on that issue.
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Old 06-12-2016, 01:24 AM   #39
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Glad to hear it went well!


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Old 06-12-2016, 09:28 AM   #40
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Very nice!
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