GB 32 Varnish / Interior Help

[GrandBanksBandit]

We have our sole and all interior cabinets down to bare wood...just curious what some of you folks would recommend for the cabinets and sole? Varnish all the way around??? Need advice...help is appreciated.

 

[Capt.Bill11]

Interior grade, satin or semi-gloss one part poly.

Inexpensive, easy to work with, you can multi coat without sanding between each coat, very long lasting, water proof, alcohol resistant and it stands up very well on the sole to foot traffic.

 

[GrandBanksBandit]

Thanks for the reply! Does varnish stain the wood as well or do we stain prior to varnishing? We tested a section with varnish only and the wood basically looks clear coated...was hoping for more depth/color without compromising too much from what was originally done by Grand Banks.

 

[Capt.Bill11]

Varnish doesn't stain. It can darken the wood some. But perhaps not as you would like.

Test different color stains to find what you like. I like cherry for some interior teak.

Also you can get urathane finishes with stain in them.

 

[DHeckrotte]

I would use exterior grade satin urethane. I used it in our sailboat which had large ports and sun-damaged finishes. You stain first, then urethane. Our sailboat had Makore interior woodwork which is quite red compared with other woods. (It's sometimes called African Cherry.) The sun-struck wood looked better when I used a reddish stain to bring the color back to match the wood that was always in shadow. I'd much prefer a wipe-on finish as I do for furniture here at home. Much of the original woodwork in older boats is 'French polished' which is a hand-rubbed, or pumiced, satin finish. Sad to say, there are no wipe-on exterior polyurethanes that I know of.

 

[Phil Fill]

At lows and home Bear and min wax makes colored varnish the clear varnish over. Most out side varnish is dark in color for UV protection.

 

[Larry M]

Here's a thread talking about floor refinishing. Rob (Datenight), posted some good stuff. He's been refinishing floors professionally for 50 years.

http://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s32/refinishing-salon-hardwood-floors-5688.html

 

[Nomad Willy]

Post #3 shows a wood panel that should have been stained before the coating. It would look much better if pastewood filler was used first .. then the stain (I agree cherry has a wonderful red highlight). Then the clear varnish. My favorite is McCloskey's Spar varnish. A high oil, more flexible, softer varnish. I use Epifanes when harder is needed. And for a satin look I just use oil. Mostly Linseed oil and turpentine .. I mix it. Most of our interior is oiled.

Reviewing the old thread (very good) it was said that high gloss varnish "is always harder" has many exceptions The "always harder" I think mostly or to a greater extent that applies to oil based varnish and may not apply to other finishes that are apparently used by many.

I use dark green "floor and patio" latex paint in Willy. Chris made and finished the little door below the oven by herself. McCloskey's spar varnish.

 

[SD_Pappy]

I've done several restorations using Dalys' Seafin Teak Oil I've used it on Teak, Mahogany and recently on a 38' C&C with a teak/Red Cedar interior, beautiful.

After the 3rd coat it starts to builds up a beautiful low luster satin finish and the best part is, if you damage anything ( wall, bulkhead, floors ) the touch up is simple.

 

[Bob Cofer]

We use a product called Teak Guard. It is UV stable which is absolutely necessary due to the amount of windows in a GB. 8 coats gives a beautiful low luster finish and maintenance consists of lightly sanding with brass wool and re-applying as necessary in high traffic or damaged areas.

I will take some photos this evening and PM to you.

Bob

 

[JDCAVE]

Use a product that is specific to floors. These products have a higher proportion of solids and are forgiving when it comes to application. I would not use exterior products on the floors. They are softer and will not stand up over time. I used exterior Cetol on all sides of my French doors downstairs on my house and was dissatisfied with how it cured inside. A fine dusty film developed on the surface that can be wiped off but it is unsightly.


Jim
Sent from my iPad using Trawler Forum

 

[kolive]

GBBandit,

Have you searched the GB Owners forum with this question yet? This has been discussed there many times I believe. I had to build a new section of floor for our forward head and used epifanes satin with great results.
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